new brass

sumpter250

multiscale modelbuilder
Jan 19, 2002
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Vernon Hills, Illinois
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The usual: clean, degrease, and lightly etch ( vinegar works well for this)
I would use a light grey primer, and it looks like box car red, or tuscan red would be close to the color you want. Add, or overspray gloss, decal, and weather, lastly, overspray flat clear.

If I were doing this: 1. Clean with detergent, warm water, and a small scrub brush, and dry. 2. Apply isopropyl alcohol as a degreaser, and dry. 3. Soak in white vinegar (I've had some pieces that took overnight) to lightly etch the surface. It gives just enough "tooth" for the paint to hold on to. Rinse thoroughly, and dry. 4. Prime; airbrush Floquil "primer", and allow paint to thorughly dry. 5. Paint Floquil color of choice, with Floquil Glaze added to [provide gloss finish for decalling (always.....gloss finish when using decals) 6. Decal, using Solvaset to set the decals( warning! do not touch the decal once the solvaset has been applied!! ). It helps them mold around any raised details. 7.Weather; drybrush dirt, dust, rust, spills etc. A very thin wash of white to fade overall, and then a thin wash of "local dirt" (the color of dirt in the area of the country that the car spends most of its time), airbrush Testors Dullcoat.
Choice of trucks, with a brass car I'd recommend plastic sideframes(to reduce the chance of short circuits), and metal wheelsets , and Kadee couplers.
 

KCS

Member
Nov 23, 2004
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Shreveport, LA.
For a car like that, I would strongly recommend Kato 70 or 100 ton roller bearing trucks (not sure which type this car used). Those truck would make it an excellent model in the long run. Sense it's brass I'm not sure if your going to run it or keep it on a shelf in a case but if on a shelf is the desired enjoyment then Sergent couplers would set this model as "real".