new Bayline boxcar and pier facility

Art67

Member
Apr 18, 2005
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Hey folks, this is my latest boxcar project that I am trying to achieve satisfactory rust results. Each car gets a little bit closer to emulating the texture and various hues of real rust. The car was weathered with acrylics, artists oil, and chalk. In the background is my rail/marine transfer building. It is an interesting structure to model as I have numbered each bay door for a total of 12 different spots. This can add to operating interest as sometimes there are "let stands" and various other factors that can enhance operating interest. The pier is mostly painted with acrylics and artist oils. I some scale stripwood and have built a floor in the building. The lighting is not sufficient to show it in these pictures [it's a bit cloudy outside}, however, I plan to do a nice photoshoot with the building when the natural daylight cooperates.

Stuart
 

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UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2006
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TRULY OUTSTANDING WORK!, Art67:thumb: :thumb: YOU are by far, the rust KING!:thumb: :D i swear you do the most realistic rust I have EVER seen.;) :D THANKS!
 

BrianK

New Member
May 1, 2006
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Great job... That rust is amazing... I'm going to have to go rust free because I'd just cry when I compare whatever I can do to what you have done ;)
 

Art67

Member
Apr 18, 2005
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Thanks for the compliments on my boxcar. The technique I use is actually pretty simple-it just takes a bit of trial and error. One thing I would recommend is to go to a railroad picture site on the internet and look for a nice, weathered looking car that you would like to emulate. Of course, if you want to do a boxcar-look for a nice, rusty boxcar. If you prefer a tanker-well, you get the idea. I find that by using a picture for reference, you take a lot of the guesswork out of where to "put" the rust and grime. Also, take notice of the various hues as real rust rarely, if ever, looks like what you get out of the Polly Scale "rust"color. In fact, I don't care for Polly Scale's rust in the first place. Also, remember that most rust is a dark, oily looking brown-as opposed to orange. The only time a bright orange is appropriate is on fresh surface rust. I do however use orange hues all the time-just not a garish orangey color that does not replicate real life. This is where the reference photos come in handy-and if anyone questions your rust patterns authenticness you can just refer them to the photo. I was a professional railroader for several years and I can tell you first hand - there ARE rustbuckets still riding the rails to this day. If there is enough interest on this forum, I may consider doing a tutorial if it would be recieved well. I did not invent this method, and there are others who do a far better job, but I am beginning to get the correct look and texture I am striving for. My technique involves the usual acrylic washes, combined with artists oils and chalk. Artists oils are an invaluable tool to have in your paint box- the new ones you can get are even water soluble and clean up with water {no caustic solvents needed}. I use these on top of the acrylics on rolling stock and structures. To me , they impart a feeling of mass and weight. If anyone has anymore questions, feel free to ask as I feel ANYBODY can do this-just practice on an old, cheapie car you have laying around. Good luck.

Stuart
 

isboris4449

New Member
Dec 15, 2005
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Wow, great looking car. And Wow, how different things in my era (late 70's) and yours. In my era that car would be so shiny it would make your eyes hurt.

Tom
 

Art67

Member
Apr 18, 2005
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Isboris-I find that on many eastern roads, the cars in the seventies were somewhat beaten up. This may have been due to the various mergers and bankruptcy that was so prevalent in that era and the railroads were not to enthusiastic about spending money on anything-this even included not keeping their track up to par. Funny-some things never change.

Stuart
 

BrianK

New Member
May 1, 2006
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Art67 said:
If there is enough interest on this forum, I may consider doing a tutorial if it would be recieved well.

I couldn't see a tutorial of this being anything less than well received :)
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
Sep 6, 2005
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Canada, eh?
Nice work on those feelthy freight cars, Stuart.
Your comment about numbering doors to enhance operation is a good one. Most industries number all of the doors to make it easy to get deliveries to the proper location. Man doors are also numbered, or have a suffix attached, like Door 27A. Even an industry with only two trackside doors would benefit from this, as one could be for inbound loads and the other for shipping. By the way, nice "industrial" look to the transfer facility.

Wayne
 

isboris4449

New Member
Dec 15, 2005
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Tacoma, WA
Art,

Although I totally agree with you regarding the condition of much of the Northeastern Railroad's freight car fleets, in the case of this car, it would have been brand new in my era. These styles of 50'6" interior length, exterior post boxcars are generally referred to as IPD boxcars. Due to a severe shortage of plain 70 ton boxcars, an Incentive Per Diem fee was paid from IIRC September through March each year for several years. This motivated many shortlines to lease large numbers of these cars. The industry joke at the time was that many smaller railroads wouldn't have the tracks to store their cars if they all returned home at once. I am by no means an expert here, but the varitable rainbow of colors these cars were painted made freight trains as colorful as they had been in many years. Again, IIRC, it all started with the original RailBox Corp in the mid seventies. Like any money making opportunity, too many people jumped on the band wagon, so when the IPD was cancelled, many of the Class 1 railroads were able to amass large fleets of these cars at prices far below their actual value.

Hopefully, someone more knowledgable than me can jump in here and set the record straight if I made any errors.

Tom