Need T-maxx Help!!!

Discussion in 'RC Offroad Forum' started by Jeremy B., Apr 10, 2004.

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  1. Jeremy B.

    Jeremy B. New Member

    I am having major problems with keeping my T-maxx running. I have been through break-in properly using the factory settings on the carb. I went through another 5 tanks running fairly hard on the factory carb settings (rich). I just leaned it out last night and got it dialed in really well. Now when I went to run it this morning it seems like I am SUPER rich on the low side. The engine wille not stay running at idle, and if it does as soon as I hit the gas it immediately dies. I have tried every setting on the low speed needle, and every setting to go with it on the idle screw. I can get it going and running if I keep pumping the throttle while I am firing it up to get the RPM's up, but when it starts rolling and I hit the gas it has a lot of hesitation and it takes forever before it will shift into second (no acceleration). Last night I had it screaming out of the hole and shifting almost immediately. Can anyone tell me what the factory settings are on all three screws on the carbs? Or any other ideas/help before I pull my hair out here. Thanks in advance!!!!
  2. bigpiper1

    bigpiper1 Member

    go to and then go into there fourms and ask this question there are alot more noligable people there. Josh
  3. mastmec

    mastmec Member

    After break-in you should replace your glow plug, they usually get fouled from running too rich during break-in.
  4. Jeremy B.

    Jeremy B. New Member

    I am on my third glow plug right now, as I have been changing them about every 5-6 tanks of fuel. I did get the problem figured out. I flooded the motor up some, loaded the pipe with fuel, and to top it off I kept adjusting the low speed screw which kept getting me further and further off. I basically broke it down and cleaned it out extremely well, found the factory settings on, and went from there. Good to go now. Thanks guys!
  5. monsterrcbuilder04

    monsterrcbuilder04 Active Member

    that wasn't to good. i bet it #@$% you off to find that out.
  6. duratraxst1

    duratraxst1 New Member

    i tought he said u were gonna say u fried the engine that wouldve sucked:((6)
  7. Jeremy B.

    Jeremy B. New Member

    The way I look at it is that I know I'll fry an engine sooner or later the way I drive this thing. I am almost expecting it, so when it does hapen I'm sure I won't mind that much. I guess it will be time for a .21 drop-in when that happens.
  8. monsterrcbuilder04

    monsterrcbuilder04 Active Member

    ya, i drive my trucks pretty hard but i check it often to make shure its not over heating
  9. tomas13

    tomas13 Guest

    get a new engine because these engines have to be tuned constantly
  10. monsterrcbuilder04

    monsterrcbuilder04 Active Member

    ya they do. i would get a new engine but dont have the money.
  11. trible10

    trible10 Member

    if you want a good engine with a little bit more power than the stock 2.5, get a Wasp .18, most lhs have them for under $100. I think it's about 1/3 more power with less tuning issues than the stock. Mine runs great and temps stay lower than stock. If your hobby shop doesn't have this engine, go to
  12. monsterrcbuilder04

    monsterrcbuilder04 Active Member

    the wasp is a great motor. thats what my friend has. he got it for $70
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