Need Help

Discussion in 'RC Onroad Forum' started by RockStarZeus, Nov 22, 2004.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Ok, here's the deal. While stationed overseas in Germany, I purchased a Tamiya TA04-S C5-R Kit. I have purchased a few parts for this car but as I was in Germany (and I don't speak German unless ordering beer) I didn't have anyone to ask for advice as far as tuning goes. This is what I have...

    -Tamiya TA04-S Chassis...
    -Graupner SPEED 500 BB Race VS... (motor)
    -Graupner MC-Power-Speed 85 ESC...
    -Graupner/JR XR-3 Race Transmitter/Reciever w/ servos
    -Graupner 3000 mAh NiMH Battery Pack...

    As far as I can tell Graupner is a German company that sells other R/C manufacturer's products under their own brand in Germany. It seems to be really good stuff but I would like some help in understanding/tuning what I have. Any help would be appreciated.

    Zeus
  2. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    well let me ask yout this. Does it go fast enuf for you? Does it handle good enuf for you? How many turn's is the motor? How is your run time. All these factor into things :D
  3. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Does it go fast enough? - I would like to go a little faster, but that's not necessarily my main concern...

    Does it handle good enough? - It's pretty stable but I would like to reduce the turning radius while under power...

    How many turns is the motor? - I have no idea. The instructions that came with the motor dont say. The only specs listed are voltages, current drains, RPM's, and size/weight...

    How is my run time? - With the 3000 mah pack @20-25 mins. It goes through my 1700 mah pack in about 10 minutes...
  4. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    ok. What is your main concern?
  5. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    It doesn't turn worth a#@$% under power. Is that normal or is it something that I can fix???
  6. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    put the toe out, so the front tires point inward at the front. Maybe get some tires that have more grip? let off the gas just alittle around a turn and when comming out of it punch it....
  7. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Here's a pic of the car...

    [file]car_with_body.jpg,5338,,0[/file]
  8. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    I thought that was toe-in???
  9. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    ya it probly is im just so weeeeeeeeee right now :D your probly right. Nice car dude.!
  10. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    These are the only Specs I could find on the motor...
    Specification</u>
    Nominal voltage 7,2 V
    Operating voltage range 4,8 ... 8,4 V
    No-load rpm 24500 min1
    No-load current drain 1,6 A
    Current drain at max. efficiency 17 A
    Current drain when stalled 112 A
    Max. efficiency without gearbox 82 %
    Length of case, excl. shaft 50 mm
    Diameter 35,8 mm
    Free shaft length 12,5 mm
    Shaft diameter 3,17 mm
    Weight 166 g
  11. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    hmm#@$% I wish there was a way of seeing how many turns it is. Does it look likes its a modafied motor?
  12. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Here's another pic of my car...

    [file]Top_View.jpg,5338,,0[/file]
  13. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    do those tamiya plugs ever get hot on ya? I switched all my plugs over to durtrax power poll plugs. They never get hot, never melt, and don't rob as much juice from the motor. Wiht running 3000 packs it is better to switch plugs, they will make a big difference.
  14. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Yeah, the plugs do get hot from time to time. Usually when I'm showin off (burnouts, donuts, etc). Also, i think the motor is "modified". You can replace the brushes extenally, adjust/rotate the end assy., ball bearings on both ends...I tried to post a pic of end assy of motor but I ran out of file space already...:(
  15. dj6666969

    dj6666969 Active Member

    ya I know that is 1 part that sucks, low file space. If I was you I would replace the plugs with the power poll's also known as *no loss connectors* Here is the link to duratrax site.

    http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc2300.html

    Well I am out for tonight take care.
  16. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    Ain Hefa Visen. And make sure you use your thumb. LOL.
    Try hardening the front suspension. I cant really tell if you have them by your pics but adding a good set of sway bars will help eliminate the chassis roll and keep the car flat so you front tires remain in better contact on the road. Start with a medium set and move to hard to see the difference. Adjusting the car so that all the shocks are at the same bound/rebound is also a contributor to "pushing" in corners. Take your car and set it on a level table. Then pick up the chassis from underneath using the point of a pen and trying to get the pen in the center of the front/rear wheels. Watch the tires on the vehicle as it rises off the surface and look for the first tire to lift. When you see it you will have to turn the shock piston to loosen or tighten the cup on the end. That will raise or lower the bottom position of your suspension arm. Do this for the rear as well. The trick is to get all the suspension arms at the same level. The use of a "tweak station" will aid you in your efforts. A set of slicks will also help. Get yourself some hpi belted slicks and med-hard or hard inner foams. Use 26mm tires all around for the most traction. Leave your toe at 0 deg and give the front wheels about 2degs of neg camber. Thats about a 3mm difference from the top of the rim to the bottom looking strait down.

    Good luck and any questions just hollar.
  17. RockStarZeus

    RockStarZeus Member

    Thanx rockn, i'll have to give that a try. I'll let you know how it works out.
  18. ericmcgehee

    ericmcgehee Member

    well i ran my micnro street force into the wall, and broke the front wall, and broke the front wheels. i sent them in for replacment, but was left waiting for 2 weeks for them back, so i took some body mounts, hooked them onto the steering arms, bent them at a 90 pointing down, and stuck the sides off my wifes sunglasses on the bottom. makes for some cool ski's, and they work quite well too. so atleast i can still play while i wait for parts.
  19. ericmcgehee

    ericmcgehee Member

    sorry i ment to post this in a different post.
  20. redheat

    redheat Member

    I'd be willing to bet that your running no more than a 19t motor, for a little more punch take the motor out of the car have the comm. cut replace the brushes . Now on the + side use a high containt silver brush with a silver spring and on the - side a green spring, all the power is in the brushes and the tension that is applied to the comm. the rounder the comm. the less arcing and more power coming out of the motor. RED
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page