Need help with glue!!!!

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by stephen.irl, Aug 26, 2009.

  1. stephen.irl

    stephen.irl Member


    I'm pretty new to this hobby and I’ve had a look at some of the glue threads but I’m still a bit lost. At the moment I’m using Loctite super glue (see attached images). While it is very good, dries very quick and has a handy brush in the bottle it leaves very obvious glue marks that look horrible and sort of wreck the look of the model. It’s also pretty expensive (€7 for a 5g bottle).

    UHU seems to be the most popular among most of you in Europe but I’m lost in the variety of glue they available. Could someone please point (or kick) me in the right direction with regard to the best glue to use. If you could also include images of the glue so I know exactly what to look for that would be great.

    Thanks a million

    Attached Files:

  2. David H

    David H Member

    Hi Stephen,

    Here are my top adhesive tips...

    Everyday white glue or wood-workers glue aka PVA is pretty standard. I am using "Titebond" nowadays but Evostick is similar. You need to dilute it with water as you go and most folk apply it with a small paint brush after mixing some up on a saucer or the like.

    UHU Extra is better than UHU and it has its uses but I employ it only occasionally. UHU Extra seems to work well like this: Apply to both surfaces, bring together, take apart, count to 10 then join.

    Superglues have their place as do glue sticks (laminating one or two small components) and 3M spray mount when laminating whole A4 sheets to card. I have also used old fashioned contact glues to laminate: Cow Gum used to be the brand but it was withdrawn due to nasty solvents.

  3. stephen.irl

    stephen.irl Member

    Thanks for your advice David. I'll give them a try. I would only really be interested in card modelling. If I use the diluted glues do they have any adverse effects on the card such as soaking?
  4. David H

    David H Member

    You are on the ball Stephen!

    Yes you do need to take some care not to over wet the card with watery glue. When diluting PVA aim for a consistency like cream... and as the experts say only apply enough glue to join the components together!

    I have trouble with that last one now and again.

    I am afraid only practise will make a difference. Card modelling is a slow, methodical and precise hobby.

  5. stephen.irl

    stephen.irl Member

    Ok, Thanks David. You have been a great help.
  6. Retired_for_now

    Retired_for_now New Guy

    I've been using Titebond II successfully (it was handy in the garage) - I assume the US formulation is the same as in the UK. Some cautions - apply sparingly (tip of a toothpick), it tacks up fast (10-15 seconds), it sets enough to continue working within minutes, it does not dry clear (slight yellowish cast). If you need to shift a part after it contacts the glue, use a heavier application of glue - a thin "postage stamp" film of Titebond II has about 20 seconds working time and sticks immediately. The glue will soften paper or card enough to allow some stretching (if that's what you want) but can also allow parts to buckle if too much force is applied.

    I've used cyanoacrylate (super glue) - but it seems to rapidly adsorb into the paper and cause some staining.

  7. stephen.irl

    stephen.irl Member

    Thanks Yogi. Good to hear from you again. I think i've found my new glue. I got a tub of unibond PVA glue and it seems pretty good. I've tried a few test pieces and so far so good. It seems strong and leaves a much less noticable mark on the card compared to the loctite glue i mentioned earlier. Is anyone else using this type of glue and tested it more than I have or am I heading down the wrong path again?

    Attached Files:

  8. Retired_for_now

    Retired_for_now New Guy

    Haven't tried it, but I think most any PVA glue will work. There are differences in working time, initial tack, and the look when dried but so long as it holds and you use it sparingly it should work. I don't think there's any wrong road (unless you're using an industrial floor adhesive or something ...)

  9. bold hamster

    bold hamster New Member

    Stephen, another thought.... I often use Anita's PVA Tacky Glue, which "grabs" really quickly but otherwise is like any other pva. The slightest smear will hold after a few seconds so it is not suitable for large or complicated jobs as it sets too quickly. Do beware of watering down pva; I rarely do now, and would rather use a spray adhesive for large flat bonding. Anita's site is ( It appears that I cant post a link- just google Anitas crafts and you will get it) . Good luck Hugh (The BH)
  10. stephen.irl

    stephen.irl Member

    Thanks for the advice Hugh. I'm a lot clearer on glue now after from the replies I got. I had never really conasidered PVA glue. I was using super glue before but I was never to happy with it. I liked the way it dried quickly and was strong but it just left horrible marks and it was pretty expensive.
  11. Deepshark5

    Deepshark5 New Member

    The Best in the whole world for card and paper (especially for flying/operating paper and card models) has simply got to be :

    Bostick Clear Glue/Bond

    This is available in England, Canada, the US, South Africa, Japan, Australia, New Zealand - in fact just about anywhere. Its quite cheap, and does some amazing bonding. On thin sheets of paper and card, a thin film cures in about 1 minute. Want more time for positioning ? nothing easier - simply make a slightly thicker film, and use your finger.

    Bostik Clear is also endothermic, it will cool your finder as it dries. quick hard bonds (for aeroplane props and wheels) can be speeded up using a fan heater, but be careful as while the glue cures it will contract to a certain extent.

    Otherwise its fantastic stuff and blows most glue into the weeds. Also excellent for balsa planes too, as it dries very light.

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