Need help with a track plan and layout

[crawford]

I posted here awhile back and wasnt really sure what I wanted. Thought I would let you see what Ive come up with. This is all new to me so I post my givens and druthers a couple of sketches of the room I have and a coal mining town I would like to model.

Scale: HO Standard Guage.
Era: Late 1930's Steam.
Region: Kentucky Hills.
Railroad: Kentucky/Tennessee.

Space: 9' 4"x 11' 8"
Rolling Stock: Coal,Freight,Passenger.

Track/Operation: 80%
Mainline Running: 80%
Scenic Realism: 90%
Switching: 50%
Operating Priorities: Main-Line passenger train operation, Coal mine operation, Local freight operations.
Min. Radius:18 degree maybe 15 degree.
Max. Radius: 22 degree.
Max. Grade: 2% Unsure.
Power: DC for now.
Primary Trackage: Flex and sectional.
No duckunder if I can help it. Maybe a swinggate or Hinged liftout.

The first pic of the room shows the bench work without the need of duckunder or lift gate but puts me with smaller raduis curves. The second gives me more room for the coal mine and town Im wanting to model continious running is a must. The grid squares are 12 inch.

The next pic shows the mining town I could change the the structures of the town to fit the space i have. But the coal tipple and the bridge got me to thinking of maybe an upper shelf layout. I would want to keep the mine north of the tipple on the lower shelf. By the way on the track to the north mine I thought of using N scale track and scratching some mine carts (thought this might be importent) for any one helping me on a track plan.I would have the bridge going south lead up to the upper level for inbound train from other mines. But space might not allow this scenerio.

 

[BigJim]

Not sure from your drawing where you can even put two 22" radius loops for continious running.

If you, like me, want continious running I would look at having a swing up section. There have been some good discussions on making these. The local club in my area has a modular show track that has one. People in and out all day long without problems.

Even with 22" inch radius it is hard to have loops without at least 48" reaches that require access holes. I would rather have one lift-up than two pop-ups.

I am planing on doing one for my layout. I think I will try and lay my track first and then make the cuts for each side. I also will be using "table leaf" alignment pins on the side away from the hinge.

Not sure about your room but if it is the layout size with mid-wall door on the right I would look at something like this. You could reach the dead end industry tracks without lifting the bridge and there would be little need for guests to go past the lift-up. Lotos of space for multiple full loops. Reversing could be done with a wye or two off to the right top and bottom areas. The tracks shown are not intended to be an actual "Layout" but mor to indicate what will fit in this area. the outside curve to the left is 36" radius. Having a large radius curve will reduce the number of times you have to reach to put a train back on the track.

 

[Russ Bellinis]

In your space, a swing or lift gate will allow you to run all the way around your room with the capability of going to a 30 inch radius if you want to. Is there a door into the room and does it open in or out?

 

[crawford]

Thanks BigJim yes I really want continious running Ill work with youre idea and see if I can fit my theme in somehow but around the room would be better.

Is there a door into the room and does it open in or out?

Russ there is no door just a 36" doorway. How wide can you make a swing gate and which would be easier to construct swing or lift.
Thanks Keenan

 

[Russ Bellinis]

Thanks BigJim yes I really want continious running Ill work with youre idea and see if I can fit my theme in somehow but around the room would be better.

Russ there is no door just a 36" doorway. How wide can you make a swing gate and which would be easier to construct swing or lift.
Thanks Keenan

I think the swing gate is easier to construct and works easier than a lift gate. The other nice thing about a swing gate is that with a lift gate, the hinges must be above the tops of the rails which makes them less scenically appealing. You can make the swing gate as wide as you would need within reason. I don't know how a 4 foot wide gate would work. The main constraint would be that you would need room to manuever inside the layout once you come through the gate. The hardware you would need for a swing gate is a heavy duty door hinge and a cheap dead bolt latch to lock the gate in the closed position when operating. The end that swings open needs to be tapered slightly, so that the front corner of the gate won't interfere with the back corner of the connecting section when you try to open or close it. You might want to put a small ledge under the closing face to support that end of the gate when it is closed to keep from having a sagging gate causing "whoop-de-do's."

 

[BigJim]

Thanks for the comment. I was planing a lift gate but I can see where a swing gate would be easier. My gate is about 12" wide so I guess I would make sense to have a small shelf or lip to rest on on both sides.