N scale How-To's!!

[hemiadda2d]

What's your favorite little cost-saver? Your favorite way to make something easier than someone else thought possible? How do you do what you do on your layout?

Here's a starter:Homemade grab irons .

 

[Ted43]

Great so far. Show the installation please, what size drill bit, what best adhesive, etc.? Thanks in advance!
TH

 

[sapacif]

Nice "narrative." Really a good idea to present your technique.

 

[hemiadda2d]

Thanks, folks!
I'll see what I can cook up, picture-wise. The close-ups of the bending part of the how-to weren't all that great in detail, but maybe the installation will work better.

 

[hemiadda2d]

See installation here: installation page .
'N'joy!!!

 

[Ray Marinaccio]

Great how-to post. I want more. Any Advice on stantions and railings?

 

[belg]

Those are both real "handy" how to's I'd also be interested in the handrail version because my attempt at trying to solder them did not work to well. Thanks Pat

 

[hemiadda2d]

Thanks, folks! The pics came out better than I'd have guessed.
Handrails? Never tried it myself...
I'm out of projects to re-rail...
Unless I got crazy and redid an SD40. Grabs, MU cables/hoses, beacons, relocated horns, firecracker antenna... I have 3 stock Katos that could use such treatment, but Ilike them in a different shade of BN green. This was supposed to be an open thread, for anyone to chime in with their fav. how-to's! Comon, folks, lessee whatcha got!

 

[stary]

MICRO-MARK sell rubber masking tape in 3 different widths, & the smallest one is good for covering rails before the track gets painted.

 

[Arlaghan]

I posted this on the Atlas Forum, thought I'd share it here as well

I've decided to share my learning experience regarding the headache that is called "soldering". This is, or shall I say WAS my weakest point. I think I've got down a little technique that works pretty well...

Note: Photos shown are of Code 55 Atlas flex track, but this works just as well with Code 80. Just remove enough ties so you can solder the "feet" of the feeders without the surrounding ties interfering.

1. I made a jig for holding the flex track in place

2. I cut the ties at 8 ties, then 6 ties

3. I pull off the 8 ties, and slide down the 6 ties

4. I position the track onto the jig - snug fit

5. Apply a decent amount of soldering flux to the rails

6. And to the ends of the feeder wires

7. Tin both the wire tip and the rails

8. Hold the wire to the rail and apply heat

9. As you can see, you get a clean, invisible joint!

-Alex

 

[hemiadda2d]

Arlaghan,
I use the same method, but mine end up more messy. I remove about 4 ties, and "wing it", holding the tinned rail/wires together with the iron. It only takes but 3 sec. to get a good, solid, hot join. No cold soldering joints here! Of course, I use a 100W gun. More heat, less time, very few/no melted ties. If I do melt a few badly, I remove them, or use the section in hidden staging. Which now, is no longer an option, as all my hidden staging is laid!

 

[SD40-2]

But what if I've already laid my track?!

 

[Drew1125]

Hi SD40-2!
Welcome to The Gauge!
I always lay my track before soldering it...as long as you haven't painted or ballasted it, there shouldn't be a problem.
I always put wet cotton balls on either side of the soldering point...this will act as a heat sink, & prevent plastic ties, &/or foam scenery from being melted.
I usualy cut away a couple of ties from the end of each track section before layinthe track...After the track has been laid & soldered, you can take these ties that've been cut away, file them down flat, & then slide them back in under the soldered joints.

 

[hemiadda2d]

I solder feeders to the track BEFORE laying, as I use WS foambed, and it melts too easily... Plus, it eliminates all that hassle!