N Gauge idea

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by McFortner, Jun 11, 2003.

  1. McFortner

    McFortner Member

    Here is a layout I have had in the back of my mind for a while. Tonights chat got me seriously thinking about it, and since I finally figured out how to work the Atlas program, I layed it out. It would be N gauge on a 4 x 3 layout. Green is the main line, purple the passing siding, and brown the industrial spurs/staging. Most of the track would be flex, but since I'm still not too good using it in the program, I used the fixed length pieces.

    Ok, this would probably be done in stages, but it is something I think I could do and be easy to store in my apartment. Your opinions?


    Attached Files:

  2. billk

    billk Active Member

    Michael -
    1. What radius curves are you using - 9-3/4"? You should think about transitioning into any curve with a radius less than, oh, maybe 15". You would have to use flex track if you do, which you already said you would be using.

    2. It looks like you have allowed about 1" from the track to the edge of the layout. Are you planning on using a guard along the edges or something to stop the infamous plummet to the floor?

    3. You might think about fitting in somewhere connection to the outside world, either to the edge of the layout or just a place where you can put trains on and take them off.
  3. TrainClown

    TrainClown Member

    I like it

    I agree with billk. You should make your table 1 or 2 inches wider to give you some extra room. I like his idea of making a line go off the table too. I would put it off to the left off the passing track. Perhaps you could put one on each end of the passing track like it was a neighbouring main line. You could put a track on a 6 foot board and screw it to the edge to give you a set up/repair/staging space (that's what I would do) This would give you more space to play and would take down and store easy. You could make this board go accross the front of your work bench. You could make it in such a way that it would fit either side and this could be a bridge to a module you might build in the future.

    Just ideas

  4. McFortner

    McFortner Member

    Here is my improved version.

    Green is the main line
    Purple is the passing siding
    Brown is the industrial area
    Red is the railyard
    Yellow is the connection to the "Outside world"

    As far as curves, I just used the preset sizes. I can't figure out how to get the flextrack to curve right in this program yet.

    I'm not sure about a "lip" along the side yet. I probably will do something though. This is basically going to be a "portable" layout that I can put behind the piesafe when not in use.

    So what do you think of it now?


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  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    How about a siding that comes off in the opposite direction? That way your passing track also becomes a run-around track.

    If you shorten your sidings on the upper / right side, you could have a turnout on the lower left passing track which would cross the yard "throat" with a diamond.

  6. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    If you have a walk around control so that you aren't tied to one spot, you might consider putting a back drop down the center and create two separate scenes. I think I would also consider forgetting the yard. On a small layout, you could use two industrial scenes and "five finger" stage the train on the main line to work those industries. The other possibility would be a small portable yard on a portable penninsula.
  7. MagicMan_841

    MagicMan_841 Member

    How about this :

    I used a switchback at the top because I find it boring when all your sidings are in the same direction (more complicated switching with switchbacks). You can also remove the yard at the bottom and add some more sidings if you prefer.

    hope this helps

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  8. McFortner

    McFortner Member

    Doing the Happy Dance!

    Well, I had to get off the interstate this morning on my way home because of heavy traffic. On the side street, I saw a new subdivision being put in, so I went in to see if I could find any scrap wood to make my layout with. And there at the last lot in the back of the s/d, I found a piece of 3/4 inch thick particle board in the junk pile. The good news is it is 38" x 48"! That is 2 inches deeper than I needed! :) :) :) :) :) :)

    So now I can start primering the top and begin putting down my layout. And today is my Friday, so I have two days to work on it!

    Life is good right now.... :)

  9. billk

    billk Active Member

    Uhh - particle board might not be the best stuff to use - anybody had any experience with it?? (I know it was free, but if it causes too many problems maybe the price is still too high!)
  10. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I think the biggest potential problem with particle board is moisture. Get it wet and it reverts to sawdust, or at least warps. If it is sealed and kept in a dry location, it would probably work as well as anything else.
  11. Blake

    Blake Member

    Particle board is a pain in the butt to nail into, especially with small track nails. Your best bet is 1/2" exterior plywood laminated with 1/8" Luaan (I think that's how it is spelled). Luaan is a thin mahogany plywood that is easy to nail into with track nails. It is quite cheap and well worth the extra trouble. On my layout, I just covered the 1/2" ext. ply with yellow carpenter's glue and then tacked the Luaan down with small nails.
  12. billk

    billk Active Member

    Since weight is an issue here (so you can put it behind the pie safe - what is that?) - how about 1/8 or 1/4" plywood with 2-3" foam on top?
  13. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    A member of our local modular club brought a 6' module to our last meeting to demonstrate dcc, and also demonstrated how to hook up a receiver to an Athearn locomotive. When I helped carry it out after the meeting was over, I was amazed at how light it was. He had built it with a 1 x 4 perimiter frame with 1 x2 cross members about every 12" or so. The top was a luan door skin with track layed directly on cork roadbed on the luan. No plywood, or other reinforcement underneath at all! There was no evidence of sagging between the joices at all. The club is ho scale, so the locomotives would be quite a bit heavier than n scale.

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