Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by YmeBP, Dec 9, 2006.
If you're not T-pinning your track to the foam then I guess you will need some sort of roadbed.
www.homasote.com It's not cheap, but from what I've heard its well worth it....but that's usually from the handlaying crowd (of which I am one).
Homosote is usually used as a sub-roadbed. Oops! theres another new term to think about. You do not need to add a sub-roadbed over foam unless you are trying to gain some elevation and then you can use additional foam layers. Homosote became popular as a sound deadener over wooden benchwork.
Wouldn't the little tee heads from the pins stick up too far and get hung up under the train as it passes by?
I bought some cork roadbed today but i'm stuck in the same situation i have to secure that somehow .
I typed up a response earlier and i have no idea what happened to it hahaha.
Use Elmers' glue, carpenters glue, liquid nails etc. for the roadbed. The Tee pins are only temporary until the glue drys, then you remove them. Did you find those holes in the ties that I mentioned earlier? You can pin the roadbed down with the same pins until the glue drys also.
Yes, i'm using them to pin the stuff down. The probelm i have w/ glue is that i want to be able to pull it up and relay it .
I've found a happy medium i think. The cork is taught enough to hold my atlas pins and the track is firm to the roadbed. I am using #18 3/4" wire nailes to secure the roadbed to the pink foam and it seems to all be staying put.
I'm going to have to look around for cork on the internet though becuase the roadbed has that andle and split inthe middle, and the middle is exactly where all those little holes are to pin the tracks down hahahaha.
I also found this stuff at home depot called "hard board" it seems pretty firm. It looks like some form of heat compressed paper mush. It's pretty stiff though so i think i'm goign to stick w/ the cork.
I just re-read your post where you were talking about having your track all connected together and it was hard to handle. I suggest doing one three foot section at a time. Switches should be put in place first and the rest of the track added . You will also need some method of cutting rail because you are not going to be able to use just full length pieces everywhere. Regular wire cutters don't do a good job of cutting rail. Get either the Xuron or Micromark rail cutter or use a model saw or fine tooth hacksaw blade.
Actually w. the atlas right track software i was able to use standard length tracks through out my layout.
I did adjust a 6" piece that it looks liek the person who i bought it from used side cutters on. I clamped it down to my bench and used a dremel to square it off then used a block to lightly touch up the end to make it square and no burrs.
But the software saved my backon big time. I got to layout the whole thing and know exactly ow may pieces of track i had to put down from the start.
I forgot to mention the good ol' Dremel tool. You're way ahead of me.
I'm thinking of T-pins with a very flat tee, not a loop. It should be below rail height.
Ummm...you do know that you split that roadbed down that angled cut into two strips then reposition it, right? I'm guessing the smiley and hahahaha means you're joking...right?
You know i bought a box of nails the other day and they were all for the wrong side of the house!! hahahaha
Yes i split the roadbed in two and put it together like this:
/--------||---------\ the only problem is the at little part in the middle is in the middle hahah. So i've been puting my tracsk off to the side by a hair so the pins stick into cork.
Now you've got me confused too. Did you read my earlier post on how to lay the roadbed. The roadbed is cut through that center line, turned over so the angled edges are outward. The vertical edges then become the centerline of the roadbed. The holes in the center of the ties then can be matched up to the centerline of the roadbed and pinned in place while the glue dries. Of course if you want to be able to remove the track and roadbed and reposition it, forget all about glue. You are better off with the sectional track with plastic roadbed. Maybe I'm not understanding what you are trying to accomplish. I will repeat again, Tee pins are temporary . If you want to nail the track in place, use a wood base and substitute what are called track nails for the pins
Yup i understand about the glue and pinning temporarily. I want to pin into the actual cork though so i've positioned my tracks so the small holes line up just off the centerline of the cork roadbed. I have #18 wirenails holding the roadbed to my foam. I'll take a picture so you can see what i mean in a few minutes.
O.k. i finally got aroudn to posting the pictures of what i meant by slightly off center.
So you can see that i've used some 3/4" #17 wirenails to hold the roadbed to the foam, then i've used atlas track pins to hold the track to the roadbed. So far it's been a solid combination.
Moment of truth is fast approaching. I'll be laying the last 6 feet or so of roadbed today and beginning the elevation of the powerlock loop i have setup. Will continue to post.
Hmm i'm thinking... is this still "track planning"? I wonder if i should ask for it to be moved to the layout section?
I'm almost to the point where i'm going to electrify the track and test. I've run into 2 (potential) problems.
1) static electricity. When i'm moving around on the pink foam it generates lots and lots of static. Is this going to hamper my fun?
2) i've made risers out of some packing material foam like stuff. But the way my layout goes the risers are blocking the view to the rear of my layout. See pictures: http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/v/Trains/Layout1/HPIM4806.JPG.html
I think i'm going to cut the blocks down some more. I was looking at the instructions for the power lock track they have risers spaced pretty far apart. I wonder why? I am a little uncomfortable going more than 1 track length w/o support.
Foam packing material is not the number one or even number two choice for model railroad use. If you've done some cutting on it, you probably found that it tends to crumble and leave a mess.
Those "risers" for the power lock track are supposed to simulate trestle piers, hence the spacing between them.
The static electricity will not be fatal but can be annoying. Do you have carpeting ?sign1
The packing material is (i looked this up, apparently there is some intense technology in packaging materials tooo!!) "closed cell air impregnated plastic" it isn't the regular styrafoam. It cuts smooth great and doesn't compress alot. I'm going to try to slice it a little thinner and see what kind of look i can get out of it. I may slice up some 1/4 ply and tick it under the powerloc on top of my risers.
not under or around the styrafoam. I have astroturf then 1" pink foam, then cork then the track. I put the astroturf down becuase the crawl space may get wet and i didn't want the water laying under my foam. I have it setup so i can blow warm air to evaporate the water and i've treated the styrafoam w/ antifungicidal spray.
I guess only the train will be going around on the tracks so it shouldn't affect them. Well wish me luck i'm going to go light this thing up .. hope i don't burn down the house.
YAY!! Got all 4 loops running. I have some cleaning to do on the last loop but it works!
here are some pix http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/v/Trains/Layout1/?g2_page=3
i have ate oddest thing happen to me. There was a short on the track and no switcehs were involved. I went aroudn the whole track w/ a magnet no metal .. and then Poof dissapeared!! I have not even the slightest clue what happened but it drove me nuts for 20 minutes.
Power lock track is not the best to elevate hahaa. I had issues where the track would disconnect slightly. I have to put some stiff strips underneath the stretches. Steel is also corroded i have to clean better.
I think i'm going to try and stuff one more loop in there somewhere . before i change the layout.
Also need some suggestions on cleaning train pickup wheels. I have some engines w/ very dirty wheels. :thumb:
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