my first attempt

Discussion in 'Weathering Forum' started by iis612, Jan 5, 2007.

  1. iis612

    iis612 Member

    I am about to take my first shot at weathering a box car. Unfortunately I can't seem to get the pictures uploaded here because I can't resize them. :curse: I will try to upload them to my blog page and add the URL.
    My blog space doesn't like the file size :curse:

    Finally, I was able to get them uploaded somewhere...
    Here are links to the before pics:
  2. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Hi iis612, and welcome to the Gauge. :wave: Nice looking boxcar, I look forward to seeing what you're going to do.
    To post pictures from photobucket, simply "copy" the "img" line beneath the image (the third line down when you're viewing the enlarged image), making sure to scroll the complete line. Then, use "paste" to insert it into your message. It's been a while since I've posted pictures here from photobucket, but I don't think that there are any limits on image size when you post as I've outlined, although if it shows up REALLY BIG, it's hard to view. You can resize images when you put them into photobucket, if need be.
    You can also create your own album(s) in the Gauge Gallery. For more info on this, here's a link: Basics
  3. iis612

    iis612 Member

    Thanks for the information and the welcome Wayne :)

    Here are the finished pictures:

    I don't think they came out too bad for a first attempt. However, I am certainly glad that it was a cheap box car.
  4. CNWman

    CNWman CNW Fan

    you're not alone

    I too can't post picture for EXACTLY the same reasonsign1 At least you can upload pics somewhere
  5. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    iis612:wave:, WOW!:eek: VERY NICE!, for your first try:thumb:. i cant wait to see your future weatherings;). :D -Deano
  6. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    I think that your boxcar turned out well, especially for a first try! :thumb: It's certainly a big improvement over the original version, too.

    Here's a link to photobucket, CNWman. They have instructions on how to set up a free account, or you can pay a fee to get even more features. Check it out:

    Or, like any other Gauge member, you can store pictures in, and post pictures from, the Gallery.

  7. MilesWestern

    MilesWestern Active Member

    Excellent for your first try! :thumb: I know mine (done with a blue sharpie when I was 6 :rolleyes: sign1 ) didn't turnout anything like that! :cool:

    For future refernce, remember dirt along the bottom of the car for road rust, dirt and grime, about the lower third of the car.

    Also rust is Brown most of the time. You can also ad rusty orange highlights, and would certianly shy away from the color out currently use. Here's an example of what I mean...



    In any case good job, and I certianly look forward to your next bunch of weathered cars! :thumb: :cool:
  8. iis612

    iis612 Member

    I used a light grey primer with burnt sienna. I went a little too light with the primer and dilluted the burnt sienna a bit too much which gave it an orange-ish hue. Lesson learned, and thanks for the road grime tip too. :)
  9. Herc Driver

    Herc Driver Active Member

    Hey - that's really nice! I like the rust treatment. Nice job!!!
  10. iis612

    iis612 Member

    Thanks Deano :D I used your tutorial to get rolling on this one. I have looked over the examples of your weathering, and I aspire to attain close to that level of skill.

    If anyone could throw in some constructive tips? I know a few have, and thank you for them.
    I am having trouble getting a good look at prototypes because of homeland security issues, I can't get into any railyards.
  11. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    A railyard is not a good place for any one to be unless you're authorised to be there. This has at least as much to do with your personal safety as it does anything else. I should think that Chicago would offer plenty of opportunities for seeing trains from publicly accessible lands.

  12. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    iis612:wave:, first...THANK YOU!:D i agree with Wayne, i have been to Chicago a few times, and found some GREAT spots to get good pics there;).

    i see your box car has roof walks on it, may i ask what era you are modeling? that would have a lot to do with how weathered your cars should look;). most cars with roof walks were gone by the end of the 60's-early 70's i think, so i am wondering what era your doing. :D -Deano
  13. iis612

    iis612 Member

    Transition era:)
  14. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    iis612, THANKS!, for letting me know:thumb:. i don't think i would make your cars look much worse then that Milwaukee. in fact, 50'ers were pretty new in the transition era. for transition era cars, i would pretty much just put some road grime, and dirt on them;), perhaps a SMALL amount of rust on them here and there. don't make to many of them with rust. i would STRONGLY suggest looking for pics of cars in that era. i think its important to weather cars as they really looked in whatever era you are modeling;).

    have you looked at doctorwayne's cars? Wayne models the 30's, but i think his cars look pretty close to how they looked in the transition era:thumb:. ANYWAYS, i think you did a GREAT JOB!:thumb: and i cant wait to see more of your work!:thumb: perhaps "others" on here will chime in with there opinions on how a transition era car should look. :D -Deano
  15. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    To be a bit rivet-counterish, your car was built in September 1972, well past the transition era, although the "New" date of June 1946 is rather puzzling. "New" is a reference to the Lt. Wt. (light or empty weight) of the car when it was first built. This date should match the "Blt" date. Eventually, the car will have to be reweighed, and at that time, "New" and the date will be painted over, then restencilled with a shop or weighscale code, followed by the date the work was done. For a few years after a car is built, the category "New" will appear near the capacity data, and the date will match the "BLT" date. Once the car is reweighed, "New" will no longer appear, and the date in this area will be a date later than the "Blt" date, which doesn't change.
    I also think that your car, or at least that paint scheme, may be too modern for your chosen era. Plug doors first appeared in the 1920's, but only began to come into common use in the mid- to late-'50's.
    All the blather aside, though, I still like the weathering job and it's still your railroad. Dean's advice to look for pictures, especially prototype ones, of cars in your chosen era is a good one. Steam here in Canada lasted, in isolated pockets, into the very early '60's, but the late '40's and most of the '50's saw lots of interesting rolling stock and innovative paint jobs. Many roads were using colours other than plain old "boxcar red", and lots were using slogans on their freight cars advertising their streamlined passenger trains. It was an exciting time, and many modellers choose it for that exact reason. (Plus, they can also run both steam and diesel.):thumb:
    Here's a link to some steam era freight cars, many of which ran well into your chosen era:

  16. iis612

    iis612 Member

    Thanks everyone for your feedback :)
    This example was a practice piece. and will have no place on my layout.
    It is definately refreshing to post a picture on a board, ask for honest advice and get it. Not a littany of profanity and insults.
    Thank you all again.
    I am working on a cab, and a Baldwin 2-8-0 that will find a home on my layout.
    I will post those pics as soon as possible.
  17. UP SD40-2

    UP SD40-2 Senior Member

    looking forward to it!:thumb:
    :D -Deano
  18. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    It looks pretty good. I think you have a good start on technique. I don't think you would have as much rust on door closing hardware. On a plug door, the door weighs 1500#, and that hadrdware is all that keeps it from falling off the car! If a plug door fell off when someone was openning it, it would probably be fatal, so the railroads do keep the hardware in excellent repair and well greased. The most common plce to see rust on a car like that would be at the edge of the door or on the body adjacent to the door where someone might have used a fork lift blade to try to open or close the door, and along the rivets at the seams between panels on the sides. You generally won't see rust on ladders much because the trainmen climbing ladders clean off the rust and tend to polish the steel steps. Often the steps and grabs won't be shiny because the railroad will use some sort of non skid on them to keep workers from slipping when climbing on cars in bad weather conditions. Then as was mentioned previously, dirt and dust collects on the bottom of the car. One other thing is that the wheels of the cars to the front and back of any car in a train will tend to kick up dirt and grime in 2 srtaight vertical lines directly inline with the rails. Also if your railroad goes through tunnels, the cars will pick up smoke from the roof down. They will pick up more smoke behind steam engines, but some of the diesels smoke almost as much as steamers. Of course, the cars don't all pick up smoke evenly. The cars closest to the engine pick up the most smoke and then when they go through a rain storm the smoke tnds to wash down and dilute a bit. The result is you won't see a really smoky looking car unless it was right behind the engines as it just came out of a tunnel.
  19. iis612

    iis612 Member

    In doing a significant amount of research, that Baldwin 2-8-0 will have no home on my layout. :curse: Due to it's manufacture date, predominant area's of use, and the rail line that I have settled on modeling has no available/searchable records of ever owing or leasing one.

    If anyone is looking for an untouched Bachmann "Baldwin 2-8-0" contact me.

    Most likely the cab won't see any of my layout either.

    All of these items came in a Bachmann set. None of them are historically correct in every aspect to the era, and locations I am modeling. They will be good practice pieces, with the exception of the loco.
  20. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    The Baldwin (Bachmann) Consolidation may not have been used on the particular railroad that you're modelling, but it's a fairly modern loco (as 2-8-0's go) and could be updated with some modern appliances, like a feedwater heater. The CNR ran Consolidations right up to the end of steam: some of them were built in 1906. I have a Bachmann Consolidation that will be converted into a CNR N-2-b. This class was built in 1918, with the last one retired in 1961. These locos were equipped with Elesco feedwater heaters and were modern in every other way. CN gave them the same haulage rating as most of their Mikados.
    On my own Grand Valley, set in the 1930's, Consolidations are "big power".:D


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