My Discovery (uhu02) build

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by davelant, Mar 27, 2009.

  1. davelant

    davelant Member

    So I started with a 5/16" hardwood dowel, 4 feet in length. It measured a little more than 8 mm in diameter. The dowels are color coded; 5/16" dowel has yellow color on one end face. I rolled several on the floor to find the straightest. I printed out page 1 on common 20 lb office paper, xerographic paper, because the wraps on page 1 seemed too thick in cardstock. I tried, and failed, to properly mark a straight pencil line on the dowel to guide the placement of the wraps. I applied the wrap as best I could, but you can see a little lateral wandering of the seam line. I made a little jig to hold the stick up to protect modules as they are added.

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  2. davelant

    davelant Member

    Nuts. I despaired of life somewhere in the middle. I made the first one with the little tiny tabs, all the others without. It worked out just as well for me. I wish I understood the Japanese symbols: could they mean port, starboard, and bottom?

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  3. Hot4Darmat

    Hot4Darmat Member

    Nice work. I admire you plowing through the small repetitive work on those spine nuts. Its one of the reasons I'm hesitating on this one. But its no reason really, now is it. Great job so far. Keep posting pics.
  4. modelnutz7

    modelnutz7 Member

    Really nice start, I echo the concern about these parts, haven't got the patience just now, but It is such a Beautiful model...


  5. cdwheatley

    cdwheatley Member

    What is this a model of exactly?! Can someone please post a picture of what it's supposed to look like when it's finished, thanks.
  6. Red

    Red Member

    the Discovery from the movie 2001 and 2010 the space odyssey.

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  7. jagolden

    jagolden Guest

    For such a long sought-after model, I think the repetitive parts will be well worth it.
    Thanks for posting your build.

    Slow and steady works best, no need to rush.

    On the "nuts", can you explain how you constructed them without the little tabs.
    Did you simply edge join?
  8. Hot4Darmat

    Hot4Darmat Member

    cdwheatley: All those spine nuts you see in the photo from the second post hold the supply/cargo/fuel pod boxes along the length of the spine you see in the image posted by Red, between the ball thingy in the front, and the engine thingy at the back, three nuts per pod.....

    davelant: I don't read Japanese characters either, but all you need to know (I think) is which one should be bottom. I doubt the rest really will end up mattering that much, as long as they're positioned right along the spine. Hopefully all the spine cones, rosettes and connectors will go faster. I'm starting mine this weekend. Is it OK if I post my build pics in your thread, or would you prefer I start a new thread?
  9. davelant

    davelant Member

    I think a separate thread would be less confusing.
  10. davelant

    davelant Member

    Most of the nuts are hex nuts, three straight sides and three concave. Multiple tiny tabs were on each concave side; I just edge glued these. But I still used the large tabs on the straight sides, which helped a lot.
  11. slee2099

    slee2099 Member

    I have a question when you printed the model did you scale it down any, the reason I'm asking is when I printed it out at full size I measured the center spine at 9mm or about 3/8" so this is the dowel I bought then when I tried to put the wraps on I found they were not wide enough. The dowel fit the holes perfectly so I found it funny that the wraps were to small the engine mounts use the same size dowel and the wraps are wider
  12. davelant

    davelant Member

    I used google translate to translate uhu's design and build diary. Based on that, I think he used an 8mm dowel. I believe that an 8mm dowel, wrapped with the right thickness of cardstock, would end up close enough to 9 mm in diameter. I printed everything at the original scale. The closest I could find to 8mm dowel was the 5/16" dowel (5/16" metal tubing would also have been good.) But I wrapped it in thin paper, just because I thought I could wrap that better. The result is the hole in the spine nuts is a little too big. Later, I'll either live with that, or I will shim up the wrap with thin strips of paper to bulk up the diameter. The spine nuts will be all covered up by pods anyway.

    But the wrap does fit around a 5/16" dowel; it's not big enough to go around 3/8"
  13. davelant

    davelant Member

    The cones that go on the spine are part #7 on page 3. The first few I made were lumpy and out of round, because they tended to bend where the slots were cut out. It worked better when I pre-curved them by vigorously rolling them on a rubber mouse pad with a 5/32" brass tube. I made a conical "buck" to form them on. I traced the flat shape of one of the pieces onto another piece of card stock, then extended the edges to make a template for a cone. It fit onto my finger like a thimble.

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  14. ltla9000311

    ltla9000311 Member

    Wow good idea davelant!:thumb: I'll have to try that1
  15. davelant

    davelant Member

    I'm nearly done preparing all the little fiddly bits that go on the spine, and I wanted to make sure the spine nuts were properly aligned and put on. After comparing uhu's build pictures, movie stills, and the parts for the "pods" that attach to the nuts, I've concluded that the hex nuts go from front to back, in sequence, through number 18. This is followed by the 3 octo-nuts (31, 32, and 33), followed by the rest of the hex nuts in order. The octo-nuts define the pod cluster where the antenna structure sits. The orientation of each spine nut is determined by the symbols on the faces, which match to number and symbol on the pod parts. My results summarized below.
    (For those unfamiliar with the jargon, port is the left side of the ship when you are facing forward on the ship. Starboard is the other side. Mnemonic: "The sailor left the port.")

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  16. davelant

    davelant Member

    So far, so good. More work than I thought. The little assembly of two facing cones, with the cog shape in between, and the three braces between them, makes a strong little unit. If I had used a thicker dowel or thicker paper for the wrap, I wouldn't have been able to slide the finished units to their proper places on the dowel. The nuts went on a little loose, even though I had cut within the black circles, but I just glued them down on the top of the dowel. All these little parts with two faces, like the cogs and braces, you have to score the folding line very carefully to make them match up. More carefully than I could, so I did a little trimming after gluing the halves together.

    I'm looking forward to bigger parts.

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  17. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    cant wait... cant wait ....
  18. Card_noob

    Card_noob New Member

    Thank heavens I found this tread. While looking for a model of discovery I found the UHU...and had no idea where to start. I'll be following your build closely. :)

    I see on page 1 the text "9mm" in among the writing I cant read...I assumed that meant the dowel size and indeed when printed "full scale" the holes in the nuts measure exactly 9mm so good call on the suggestion to print those pieces on thinner stock.

    BTW, did you have any issue printing full scale? The page size is 8.3x11.7" and I can only find decent card stock in 8.5x11"...and Acrobat wont let me position the page so on many of them the bottom ends up cropped.

    What are 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b etc for? I cant figure that one out and its right at the start. LOL.
  19. davelant

    davelant Member

    The fit issue is arguable; as I said, the holes in the spine nuts were a little big the way I did it. I'd rather err on the side of dowel diameter too small rather than too large.

    8.3x11.7", is of course, A4 paper used everywhere except North America. Here, you need to get acquainted with your friendly paper wholesaler/distributor and get 8.5x14" cardstock to print out full scale.

    (1a) is a long strip that glues along the length of the dowel. (1b) goes on the dowel just below (1a) at right angles, and wraps around the circumference of the dowel. The end of (1a) and both ends of (1b) meet at a point, leaving a triangular space below; that's where (2a) fits. When you wrap (1) around the dowel and leave a gap, you'll see (1a) below, which is better than seeing wood. (1b) keeps you from seeing wood in between (1) and (2). Rinse and repeat.

    And dude, if you really are a noob, you might want to try another model first, to warm up a little.
  20. Card_noob

    Card_noob New Member

    Although I couldn't find card stock in anything larger than letter at retail, a local print shop sold me 60lb legal for $0.30 a piece. Made doubles of everything with the trusty Oki at work (I swear it will print on corrugated cardboard if I asked it to).\

    Kudos on persevering through the nuts. I did a couple trials last night and indeed getting the 3 curved side "just right" is tedious. Did you at any point contemplate a slightly lighter card/paper for these parts?

    Do you find his black outline to be quite heavy? Makes me uncertain where exactly to cut and/or score some of the parts at times.

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