Most common used card stock?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Brian_Va, Oct 22, 2006.

  1. Brian_Va

    Brian_Va New Member

    Total newb here, my son and I have discovered card models for when we can't do r/c models. The only question I have found no answer for (odd as it seems) is the prefered paper/card stock for inkjet printers. Any suggestions? Best most common stock used?
  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Its totally your preference and what the piece it you are building. I recently started using 110 lb cardstock and really like it for most applications. I do need to print on lighter stock (prolly use 44 lb) for some of the tight rolls. Really the best way to figure it out is to try using a few different weights and see how you like it.
    p.s. welcome to the forums! glad to have another person around :D
  3. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Yes, a warm welcome.
    Now, here in the UK we use a different way to 'weigh' the paper, and as someone else said, the gsm or lb of paper doesnt always run in a linear fashion. Sometimes you can find a very dense paper but its quite thin... and conversley a thicker, more bulky paper will weigh less.
    Here is a quick place to decipher the weight conversions, but find sa paper store you like and experiment with several types of paper available. Then you need to make sure they can get it regularly!
  4. Brian_Va

    Brian_Va New Member

    Hey thanks ya'll. Now that we have established weight, what about finish? Gloss, semi gloss, flat?
  5. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    normal plain old finish paper for me. Gloss is hard because the coating prevents glue from sticking. You have to sand it off or some such (usually) You can use a glossy fixative of some sort to make it glossy if you want or goat the model after its completed. I have never done that myself but maybe others can help there...
  6. hpept

    hpept Member

    First of all welcome to the forum. I use 75 gsm copy aper for thin sheets, and 180 gsm cardstock for thicker sheets with my inkjet. Matte paper, and if i need a glossy finishing, simply spray acrylic lacquer.
  7. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

    Welcome aboard!

    I have been using 67# cardstock pretty much across the board, so to speak, for a while now. I do use bond paper for some smaller details, and when rolling little tubes for details, but the 60# stock has worked well for just about any build I've used it for...and it's pretty easy to find in most stationary supply chains, particularly on line...I order from Staples for the most part and they always have one brand or another in stock, so far.

    As to finish, I usually stay with matte or flat finishes, though as hpept mentioned, it's no biggie to spray the paper with an acrylic spray to get the finish of your choice, not to mention it helps protect the printed page too.

    Hope some of this helps.

  8. Brian_Va

    Brian_Va New Member

    Thanks fellas

    Ya'll have been a big help to me, can't tell ya enuff how much I appreciate it. Now I gotta go soak some old printer cartriges cause I think I got a lot of refilling and printing to do. I think in some respects card models are as hard scratch building r/c planes.
  9. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member


    Hope you and yours have fun with this hobby. Hopefully you can mix both hobbies together. :D
  10. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    For general use 67Lb Hammermill with a 95 Whiteness rating this paper is around 9 mil thickness. For very fine printed detail I use Epson SO41257 this is a 44 lb matte finish Photo quality paper this paper also measures 9 mil thickness. The Epson paper is relatively expensive at 50 sheets for $13.00.

    Jim Nunn
  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    You mean by "fine printed detail" that this paper shows better resolution of detail (less fuzzy edges, etc)? How does it glue, being a photo paper? Many here have spoke about trouble trying to glue glossy photo papers.


  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Its not glossy, its matte. This paper works great. Its what I use quite often as well. :)
  13. 46rob

    46rob Member

    I use 67 lb Bristol by Wausau. It's what I design to, as well. It's got a nice matte finish, takes ink uniformly, folds and shapes easily, and has a well defined grain--which I use to advantage, by orienting my parts to take advantage of it. I've even been known to re-arrange the parts on new sheets to better utilize the mechanical properties of the paper. I keep some 40 and 110 on hand, for times when I need lighter or heavier material...but I use a ream of the 67 every few months, while the other sizes last for a year or more.
  14. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    I'm currently having a paper weight problem.

    Without thinking, I had the Yamaha YFZ R1 Bike model printed on 100lb cardstock and now here I have a model that delaminates under strong curves and resists bending to form proper cowling shapes. Also tabs on parts cannot be used as these tabs now prohibit the model from taking it's proper shape.

    I can say this is one of the first models I had printed and again like other paper modeling instances I have learned when and where to use heavy stock and where to use managable light stock paper.

    Like my colleagues above. 60-70lb card stock should be the norm for many projects especially cardstock that does not delaminate when you try to roll it. After that a method of printing should be chosen so that the color does not come off when you put paper to it's bending limits. I guess this is where spraying the surface with a fixitive is paramount but I have yet to use it or learn properly it's benefits so far.
  15. 46rob

    46rob Member

    When I laminate cardstock that has to be curved--I precurve the parts, to as close a profile as I can get, then laminate. I learned the technique years ago, when I made a banjo. You laminated up veneer strips around a circular form to get the shape of the instrument. Incredibly strong when finished. My model parts hold their shape so well I can sometimes eliminate formers, especially if I use the paper's grain to my advantage..
  16. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Yep, I have found that some of the 110lb stuff I have bought lately tends to delaminate. The stuff from the same manufacturer bought a few years ago did not seem to delaminate as much or at all. Maybe they changed their manufacturing process to save money. It gets to be very frustrating when you have a small part that you are trying to manipulate into place and the paper starts to split.:mad:
  17. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Mind sharing the brand with us yo uare having problems with so we know to avoid it.... :)
  18. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    If I recall right, it was some stuff from Georgia Pacific.
  19. miguelj

    miguelj Papercraft Addict

    I built my first model(a YAMAHA bike) using the 185 gsm paper stock. I'm very happy with it and I use it in all the models that I make. 10 sheets cost 70 cents.
  20. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    We all want to be cool like you so I better go by stock in Duco! :D

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