More OIL or replace?

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by Renovo PPR, Feb 14, 2007.

  1. Renovo PPR

    Renovo PPR Just a Farmer

    My fleet of post war rolling stock is suffering from years of attic storage. Each axle has some slight rust from the many years of going through countless temperature and humidity changes. Strangely my locomotive and tender do not suffer from the same fate.

    I find that I have to apply oil far to often to keep the wheels moving smoothly. While this isn’t a hardship it does foul the tracks faster on that line.

    [FONT=&quot]So is it time to keep the oil flowing or replace the trucks? What do you folks do?[/FONT]
  2. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    If you can afford to replace all your trucks, then go for it.
    If not, you might consider spraying down the old trucks with a degreaser to clean them out good and then apply fresh oil or lube.
  3. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    I ran my trucks through an ultrasonic denture cleaner to take off all the filth (still had a bit of scraping to do) then when it dried I put a bit of WD40 on it. I haven't noticed any rust coming back,
    I did the other metal bits with a rust removing solution from the car store -- I think it's mostly phosphoric acid, so read the directions.
  4. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    If that's the case, then this should work as well....

    Attached Files:

  5. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

    Trouble with Coke, is that it makes an excellent substitute for Loctite in certain situations.
  6. MadHatter

    MadHatter Charging at full tilt.

    Cannonball- Love the new sign of yours'. Best so far
  7. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    I've been tempted by ultrasonic cleaners but so far haven't bought one... yet. I really like that suggestion. Soaking rusty parts in plain white vinegar will get rid of rust. Not as quickly as some commercial rust removers, but faster than Coca-Cola (which also really does work, except for the residue it leaves).

    For that matter, I've also removed rust from the parts where it counts the most just by setting up a loop of track I don't care about on the floor, oiling liberally, and letting the train run for hours.

    After rehabbing the trucks, the standard one drop of oil per wheel should suffice to keep them running well.
  8. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    The only problem with vinegar (and I found out the hard way) if you don't rinse it off and dry The parts well, the rust will come back tenfold.
  9. Renovo PPR

    Renovo PPR Just a Farmer

    I just had a thought. I do a ton of reloading and I use a case cleaner filled with either corncobs or walnut pieces. What you do is toss the case into the cleaner and in about a half hour the cases are clean. This works by vibrating the case in the above media.

    [FONT=&quot]Has anyone tired this? I just might give it a try this weekend.

  10. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

    Thanks! :)
    Now I've just got to rework the website.............. Again. :rolleyes:
  11. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    Yes, I've tried it. It works, but it takes longer than cases do. Plan on it taking a few hours.
  12. Jaabat

    Jaabat New Member

    Give the rusted areas a going over with a dremel tool wire or bristle brush. It will get rid of the rust in seconds. Oil as needed. I've never had an issue with rust reappearing using this method. The dremel tool/brushes are also great for removing the gunk that accumulates on the wheels. Kill 2 birds with one stone.
  13. jefelectric

    jefelectric Member

    Hi Jim, I didn't know you posted on "The Gauge". Nice to hear from you.

    I use a small ultrasonic cleaner, which works great but does take time as only one pair of trucks at a time will fit.
  14. Torpedo

    Torpedo Member

    Try Diet Coke instead. All that sugar is bad for you--and for close tolerances. :D:D:D
  15. Cannonball

    Cannonball More Trains Than Brains

  16. Fluesheet

    Fluesheet Member

    I've tried my tumbler for things other than shell casings as well and have found that it doesn't work well on items with finer details. I'm guessing that the media particles are too big to provide any meaningful "scrubbing" action.

  17. TR-Flyer

    TR-Flyer Member

    Hi All:
    If you were cleaning the ends of the axles where they recess into the sideframes, i would not use a dremel tool. This will produce fine scratches on the axle, which leads to more friction. "Friction Bad on Axle ends, good on tires". Try using one of the coke, vinegar, ultrasound methods or, just to add ONE MORE IDEA, i have used silver and brass polish successfully to remove light rust. My fav is Wengers but Brasso works too. Then you must put a drop of oil on these contact points or they will re-rust. Neil Young was right boys and girls.

    If the metal thing you cleaned isn't a contact point, say it’s a frame, track, body, etc. then apply something else on it to keep the oxidation of the now clean AND BARE metal from "doin' what comes na-ture-ly". I have found radio shack’s tuner cleaner to be good for use on track rails.


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