MofW Car drive mechanism failed

[YmeBP]

I managed to pick this up on ebay to help me along w/ my track maintenance mission . I didn't pay that much for it and it is in overall great condition. It run but the wheels didn't move. Took it apart and it looks like age got to these 2 plastic x pieces that attach to the shaft of the worm gears inthe trucks. Has anyone ever seen this car or these x's before? Can i buy them somewhere our would i be better making my own out of delrin, nylon or abs? The shafts also have an odd measurement, .092" diameter.

I also have designs on articulating the 4 buffing posts . Right now they have a very soft spring in them, i was thinking of putting a crown gear setup at the tops of the shaft and putting a high speed motor (like from a tyco ho scale slot car) and have them rotate . I'd have to figrue out how to hide that setup but it would be able to buff the tracks to a mirror shine!!

One last question, does anyone know what that material is on the pads of the cleaners? It is almost like velour in cars on the crappy old gm models.

Link to full sized images: http://www.skyersfamily.com/gallery/v/Trains/Depot/MofW/

 

[Dragon]

The car itself is an MDC/Roundhouse boxcab deisel. It uses the same chassis as their climax kit.
Unless you want to beg, borrow or steal (or ebay), those specific universal joints are going to be very hard to come by. MDC/Roundhouse was bought out, and the new company is not offering parts for sale separately.
I happen to have ONE complete universal (one of the ends in your pictures, and the end that goes into the huge gearbox). My climax kit only ad the one, and I've since cannabalized the kit for other projects. You can have this one if you are interested, but I'd recommend that you find a way to make your own.

I can't help you with motorizing the cleaning pads. Howver, the pads themselves are probably a stiff felt, or fine sandpaper.


Hope this helps.

 

[LongIslandTom]

YmeBP:

Heck, just buy another Athearn Superweight F7 and convert that to clean your tracks. It's cheap, and it'll be much easier.

I would grab a dummy (i.e. non-motorized) Superweight F7B, and use the four center-tank motor mounting holes to mount a masonite pad to be dragged across the rails under the fuel tank. Pull it with a powered Superweight F7A, and voila-- You got your MOW train.

(You should paint up the consist in your custom MOW colors, LOL).

 

[YmeBP]

Somone is selling a lots of stuff on ebay w/ the pads as part of the lot. I can't find them listed anywhere in google so they must be out of production.

The x ends aren't that hard to make i can make a crude one w/ nylon and a hobby knife and drill out the shaft hole. I'm noticing that allot of people on google want to remotor this model.

I'm still intrigued by it .

The car itself is an MDC/Roundhouse boxcab deisel. It uses the same chassis as their climax kit.
Unless you want to beg, borrow or steal (or ebay), those specific universal joints are going to be very hard to come by. MDC/Roundhouse was bought out, and the new company is not offering parts for sale separately.
I happen to have ONE complete universal (one of the ends in your pictures, and the end that goes into the huge gearbox). My climax kit only ad the one, and I've since cannabalized the kit for other projects. You can have this one if you are interested, but I'd recommend that you find a way to make your own.

I can't help you with motorizing the cleaning pads. Howver, the pads themselves are probably a stiff felt, or fine sandpaper.


Hope this helps.

 

[YmeBP]

I was thinking about this too, i have a dummy engine here that i was going to paint up .. but this MofW i can use as a shunter too. I dunno .. my layout really isn't that complex yet i'm just dreaming right now hahah.

What my end goal is though is to have enough of these cleaning cars running around that i don't have to use any elbow grease. I built a little cleaning care w/ some masonite and hotglue and some nails drilled through teh bottom of a cheapy tyco flat car.

Looks a little curde but it works. i also have this revell track cleaning car made in 1958 w/ the numbers 5000-001 on the bottom. This thing works wonders!!

I'm going to do up something more specific about my cleaning trials on the steel track thread. I have a bunch of chemicals i ordered that came in so i have tons of stuff to try out.

YmeBP:

Heck, just buy another Athearn Superweight F7 and convert that to clean your tracks. It's cheap, and it'll be much easier.

I would grab a dummy (i.e. non-motorized) Superweight F7B, and use the four center-tank motor mounting holes to mount a masonite pad to be dragged across the rails under the fuel tank. Pull it with a powered Superweight F7A, and voila-- You got your MOW train.

(You should paint up the consist in your custom MOW colors, LOL).

 

[Ray Marinaccio]

An Athearn #41034 4 prong coupling from an F7 or SW will work as a replacement for the MDC coupling.
It may be a little easier to find.

 

[YmeBP]

An Athearn #41034 4 prong coupling from an F7 or SW will work as a replacement for the MDC coupling.
It may be a little easier to find.

Hey i remember your name from another post, you are the train repair god person . Thanks for the heads up!!

Look at that!! 2.15 cents!
http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/Athearn-Couplers-Worm-Coupling-4-Prong/item140-41034.html

Sweet thanks!!

 

[YmeBP]

The parts have arrived and i've successfully repaired the train!! THANK YOU!!!!!bounce7

I've installed a decoder in it but am having a couple issues w/ it. I also went ahead and put some lights in it too. I'm sure it isn't prototypical but i like watching things blink onn and off haha.

Thanks again!!

 

[Ray Marinaccio]

Good to hear.
I'll bet some MOW equipment had flashing lights.