Module transistion...

Discussion in 'Modular Layout Forum' started by jflessne, Jun 21, 2006.

  1. jflessne

    jflessne Member

    Hello I'm designing a 5 x 14 Dogbone layout with two mainlines on the outside.

    My question.

    I plan to break this up into modules. Thought it would be easier if I decide to move up north next year.

    The problem. I wanted to make two 5 x4 modules on the ends and one 2 x 6 module in the middle. I have some concerns placing transistion track (Or fitter track) on a curve. Or should I make the end modules a bit larger?
  2. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Welcome to The Gauge...

    Your sections can be split wherever it is convenient. There is always a solution to fixing the track in place. Check the "Resources" thread at the top of the Modular Forum for some ideas...

    One that comes immediately to mind is to choose a radius that matches available sectional track. I believe that someone (name escapes me right now) makes sectional track up to 36" radius. That way, even if you use flex track, your curved "joiner" track can be a piece of sectional.

  3. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Even if your running a 30 inch minimum radius, most rolling stock will tolerate a short piece of a smaller radius if it is only one small section with the larger radius on either side. You can also lay track across two sections of bench work and cut it between them afterwards. What you want to do before trying to move the layout if you do that, us to buy some pieces of aluminum extrusion angle to lay across the end of the bench and then fasten down with screws. The aluminum will protect the rails that go right to the end of the bench work from being damaged by bumping into anything.
  4. jflessne

    jflessne Member

    More questions.

    I plan to use blue foam to keep the wieght down. I'm wondering because my 2 end modules are 5x4... Should I cut the foam 4x4 and add 1 foot section or should I cut a two foam boards at 2.5 x4???

    Also I planned to recess the 2" foam into 1x4 frame... how do I handle the exposed 2 inches between modules?
  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Use 1x5 (which is really only 4 1/2" deep) if you are going to recess the foam into the frame. This leaves lots of room for wiring, cross bracing and so on underneath without it sticking out or hanging down to get caught on stuff...

    How you cut your foam depends on how you can get it. Most of the stuff here is readily available in only 2'x8' sizes. If you can find the 4'x8' sheets, then you could cut a 5x4 section from one whole board. I think the 2.5'x4' option would be a waste of a 4'x8' sheet, and you obviously could not get that size from a 2'x8'...

    Regardless of how you cut and fit the foam (which really is not important), you will need to have some cross braces to support the foam deck, and to keep the section frames rigid and strong. You should probably brace at least every two feet with a minimum of a 1x3 (on its flat side).

    Having said all that, is there a better way to divide up your benchwork to get fewer cuts, or make it easier to lay the track joiner sections?

  6. jflessne

    jflessne Member

    Ok now that I think about it it was a dumb question. I just didn't remember I could get 4 x 8 sheets. Opps.

    I think I'm going to lay everything out. At the transition areas use my Xuron to cut the Flex track section. Create ballasted joiners.... out of the cut outs. You think that would work?

    Also because I'm recessing the foam...should I be concerned that the frame of the joined modules will be level with the foam? Does this make sense? Picture would be better. :(

    I'm using 1x4 frame with 1 x4 Or 1 x2 cross members... Should the cross members be horizontal or vertical? Picture here might of helped also.

  7. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Check standards and also (follow the DCC/module link) for tips on how to treat the edges/ends/interfaces of your modules. There are also standards for the cross braces. I would make them horizontal. Make sure that you glue everything (everything!) for better strength.

    I would recommend that if you are going to use joiner track that you terminate your flex with a short section of snap track (assuming Atlas all around here...). The snap track is rigid and will be better anchored to the roadbed. The installation and removal of joiner tracks (although in your case not very frequent) can damage the "fixed" track quite easily.


Share This Page