Modifying 85 ft Con-Cor HO Pass. Cars

[jtbterri]

I'm starting a project ot modify a set of Con-Cor 85ft HO Corregated Passenge Cars to run on our club layout. Mine's too small and with 18 and 22 inch radii not realistic for these models.

First off, I want to replace the stock NMRA couplerswhich came with the Con-Cor cars with Mchenry or preferably, Kadee. Can you just replace the original with the MH #52 or do you need some type of conversion kit? Or can I use the Kadee #508 conversion kit for 4-axle IHC/Riveossi?Athearn cars with out any modification? I also noted that Con-Cor in their literature, references the McHenry #6 coupler as a replacement.

Next, I want to have metal wheels. What's the best replacement for these cars??

Thanks for any help and of course....Merry Christmas!!

George

 

[shaygetz]

My Con-Cor cars are using the Kadee #508 conversion kit. The McHenry's rely on a long shank that has a tendancy to sag in time and when placed under too much load stress in a long train. My prefered wheelsets are Intermountains. I don't lose any sleep over scale diameters, choosing to replace each car with whatever diameter it came with. :thumb:

 

[shaygetz]

Here's a link to a "How-to" I did on the subject installing #508s on IHC cars. The principles are the same, just take your time and don't be afraid to make that first cut.

http://www.2guyzandsumtrains.com/Content/pa=showpage/pid=16.html

 

[jtbterri]

Bob
Thanks for the input and the link to your "how-to" page.

I took one of the Con-Cor trucks off as suggested, removed the wheel over the existing coupler and noticed that the geometry/layout of the Con-Cor truck is significantly diferent than the IHC one in your photo which is what the Kadee 508 is designed to work with. It appears that there isn't enough plastic "real estate" to allow the placement of the self tapping screw under the wheel. Since you did this with Con-Cor as well as IHC I'm assuming my fears are unfounded....correct?

Also, preliminary inspection indicates that the Con-Cor wheels on their trucks are metal, insulated on one side. Is this what you found? If not, any idea what diameter they are? 31, 33, 36??

I picked up a couple of these on eBay so I'm not too sure of their "pedigree".

Thanks for the assistance.
George

 

[Pete]

Hi George
I acquired several of the IHC/Rivarossi car that had the 508 conversions already done; the previous owner (or whomever did the work) had just glued the adapter into the truck. As long as it was positioned correctly, it should be fine that way.

 

[jtbterri]

Pete
Thanks. Glue was kind of my "fall-back" position if I tried to screw it in and couldn't succeed.
I'm still interested to find out if there is enough real estate. I can't find a Kadee 508 locally or I'd experiment on my own.
George

 

[shaygetz]

Here's two of my Con-Cor cars, a coach and a diner. Both are screwed in---I glue on occasion but only as a last resort---scale length trains can be really hard on draft gear boxes. As with most Kadee installs, they're more to be considered as recommendations, the final installs are still pretty much up to the ingenuity of the installer.

The wheelsets are 36" and definately keepers. They've not given me a bit of trouble.

 

[jtbterri]

Bob
Thanks, especially for those pics of your Con-Cor cars! I do believe! Now to find a local source for the Kadee508's.

Thanks again.
George

 

[jtbterri]

Bob
OOPs, forgot to ask, that little plastic anchor Con-Cor uses to hold the wheels to the frame, got any suggestions on a replacement? One of mine has joined the ranks of the missing in action.
George

 

[shaygetz]

Bob
OOPs, forgot to ask, that little plastic anchor Con-Cor uses to hold the wheels to the frame, got any suggestions on a replacement? One of mine has joined the ranks of the missing in action.
George

Ooooowwwww! That reeeeally is no fun What I've done in the past is fill the hole in the car floor with a styrene rod plug. Then---if I'm lucky---a plastic/styrene/brass or suitable material sleeve the right diameter inside and out lies waiting in my scrap box. Placed around a small screw and washer run thru the hole in the truck, it usually works out tapped into the plug in the floor of the car. If not, a sleeve can be carefully drilled out and fitted from some more styrene rod. Do this in a incense fogged room chanting, "Model Railroading is fun, model railroading is fun..."

 

[Russ Bellinis]

Bob
OOPs, forgot to ask, that little plastic anchor Con-Cor uses to hold the wheels to the frame, got any suggestions on a replacement? One of mine has joined the ranks of the missing in action.
George

A #6 screw will tap into the hole. That is how I mounted the trucks to my Con-Cor passenger cars. Since I only use my passenger cars on the modular club layout with a 36 inch minimum radius, I glued styrene shims to the bottom of the cars and body mounted Kaddee #5 couplers in Kaddee coupler pockets. If the screw mounting the coupler box is left a little loose to allow the box to swivel, the car can be made to operate on a tighter radius.

 

[jtbterri]

Russ

Thanks for the tip on the #6 screw.

I thought about the body mounting technique, but prefer the #508 kit/adaptor as it gives more flexibility in minimum radius operation.

I know that Con-Cor used to offer a kit to "upgrade" these trucks with an insert, screw and new McHenry couplers. Might have to pick up one of these, if I can, for the screw and insert, since I won't need the MH couplers, but probably will need backup for the plastic plugs.

George