models strong for wargaming?

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by Acheron, Nov 30, 2009.

  1. Acheron

    Acheron New Member

    Newbee question.

    I'm mostly interested in builds of tanks/vehicles to be used in wargaming (W40K and the like). However I'm concerned about the strength of paper/card models. Can they withstand the knocking about that wargaming will put them through? Will the models withstand transporting of the models packed in foam bags?

    Any suggestions are welcome.
  2. Retired_for_now

    Retired_for_now New Guy

    Small card models are fairly durable, larger ones with internal structure should also hold up well. They need protection if packed in a box (use wadded up plastic shopping bags?). Biggest problem - just don't get them wet (problematic even if you seal the surfaces).

  3. Ron Caudillo

    Ron Caudillo Creative Advisory Consultant Moderator

    I would suggest coating the models with a clear spray finish- just be sure to use SEVERAL LIGHT coats. This will protect them from dirt and humidity. Using lots of spray layers make them very strong and they will withstand a lot of bumping, etc. You may want to reinforce sharp edges with super glue.

    Best Regards,
  4. Acheron

    Acheron New Member

    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep your advise in mind.
  5. lehcyfer

    lehcyfer Member

    And as usually, always keep that Cyanoacrylic glue ready to make a fast repair :)

    I found that the toughest models are glued with binding glue and Cyanoacrylic. Also consider coating small parts with CA to make them hard and durable.

    And no matter what, always laminate all large surfaces - top, bottom and all sides - to prevent them from getting concave.

    As for lacquer - use normal shiny acrylic transparent car spray lacquer - at least twice, and then a coat of matt Cytadel Spray - the model will be durable and nice looking.
  6. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

    When I make my Warhammer armour, I glue the pattern to a heavy carton like the one used in the making of shoe boxes. They are heavier and can withstand constant abuse. I also make inside bulkheads to avoid the sides from bending or being crushed. If you use a heavier carton or paper, keep in mind that you have to compensate for the extra paper at the joints. You will have to make opposing sides smaller to allow for a butt joint. If you do not do this, you will have a wide white edge. Also for the rivets, You can make them by using a small punch or if you want something closer to Game Workshop, cut the heads off straight pins and place them at their locations. Two options for the pin heads are to cut them at he head or leave a very small end to install into pre-drilled holes at the locations. The metal rivets have an advantage in that they do not peel.
  7. lehcyfer

    lehcyfer Member

    Small rivets can be made using drops of wood glue - sometimes twice - like in this sentinel:


    I usually print straight on a 0,5mm card - never had any problems with printers using this thickness.

    And then laminate the large areas on the same 0,5mm card to make them tough.

    I compensate the thickness by cutting edges at an angle (I don't use flaps) and making an indentation on the back of card along the lines of folding
  8. Harlequin_HK

    Harlequin_HK New Member

    Will a spray of varnish or any similar coat of fluid change the colour of the printed card?
  9. silveroxide

    silveroxide Well-Known Member

    Polyurethane is a clear coat but too much will give you an opaque look in areas where the liquid might pool. build the coats up lightly. Varnish may have a tendency to yellow the finish. And never mix your clear coats. For example, clear enamel and clear urethane will wrinkle on you if sprayed on top of each other.
  10. belleg01

    belleg01 New Member

    I use 3 layers of cardstock paper (from office supply) glued together. Ive never painted or sealed mine but i also havent played a actual game with them but they seem pretty solid and i dont really have to compensate much for the thickness. Now that i think about it it could be all the glue that makes them so solid feeling:mrgreen:.
  11. Fl0ydski

    Fl0ydski Member

    Ebbles Miniatures designs a lot of cardstock models specifically for Wargames/RPGs. All are built using 110lb cardstock or 80lb coverstock and they are really durable. Of course doing all the steps above and reinforcing certain interiors with popcicle sticks or multiple layers of carstock will only increase their survivability. But another thing to consider is that they really do build up on no time at all. So print and make a few.
    He has a few free sample vehicles to try for yourself.

    The card models for 40k designed/modded by Elli Patoroch assemble quite sturdily. Especially when you layer the card as prescribed in the instructions. I like to use Cereal Boxes for the thicker parts.

  12. esternocleido

    esternocleido New Member

    I use water whit compactuna, compactuna is an aditive to concrete, to make concrete strongest and impermeable,i dont know the name in englis, i use inside of model, not in the printed face
  13. Bubba Ho-Tep

    Bubba Ho-Tep Paper Fanatic

    I used alot card models in wargaming and have minimal wear and tear on them.
  14. trixyblue

    trixyblue New Member

    I use alot of foam core in my models, someone said to me, we dont want to use your tanks for playing because they arent stable enough we'll stick with the plastic model kits. So i put mine on the floor and stood on it, picked it up and it was fine, i said now stand on your plastic model kit, of course they wouldnt because it would have broken.

    I have some buildings ive made for warhammer fantasy that are really solid, card, foam core, and some balsa wood. But of course any small detailed parts will always be fragile.
  15. Napoleon1

    Napoleon1 New Member

  16. Llamahead

    Llamahead New Member

    Good to get this advice as well. So they should be durable enough if treated well like any other model?
  17. Gidster

    Gidster New Member

    Aqua resin is a good solid stiffener as well. Makes them almost as durable/paintable as plastic!
  18. Experimental Designs

    Experimental Designs Papercraft Visionary

    I say use a medium to heavy paper weight or use smaller weights in tightly glued layers back up by sealent and paint. That makes my models pretty damn sturdy.
  19. barad

    barad New Member

    When you think about it we don't model in paper to save weight so where possible just add thickness or supports, easy enough to use scrap pieces to simply add strength to the inner sides of a model.

    A case of just see where/how you can add extra thickness. Anything round 1mm thick will be strong enough and smaller sections will be happy with 0.5mm
  20. Experimental Designs

    Experimental Designs Papercraft Visionary

    I don't make hollowed models if I can help it, I make solid models that have materials through and though which has some advantages of long shelf life, stability, durability and you can just "carve" it into shape. The one big disadvantage that it does use up a lot of materials and takes twice as longer to construct.

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