Models By Marek Bristol F2B Fighter

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Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Subject : Bristol F2B Fighter
Scale: 1:33
Publisher: Models By Marek 01(14)/2004
Designer: Marek Pacynski
Distributor: DeWayne Barnett http://www.teuton.org/dbarnett/
Format: Unlocked PDF electronically delivered

Bristol F2B
Marek has gone overboard on this one and has to be his most detailed WW1 era aircraft to date. This aircraft has the potential to be another museum class kit with no detail left out. 7 pages of parts, 3.5 pages of detailed instructions and an aircraft history in English fill out this kit very well. The kit is one of the latest offered in DeWayne's ever increasing line of models. DeWayne's service is excellent with the kit arriving quickly along with the usual friendly note. The price cannot be beat at 5.00 for any of the Marek 1:33 kits . I recommend them highly.
 
D

Darwin

Member
Sep 26, 2005
317
0
16
78
Idaho Falls, ID
I just got my own copy of the F2b, and second your opinion that it could serve as the starting point for creating a museum class model, but it would require some scratchbuilding to get it there. The observer's machine gun is particularly nicely done. First impression is that it should be a straightforward build, and a great value for the very modest cost. I add my own recommendations for going to DeWayne's e-shop when looking about for the next project.
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Hi everyone,

After about 2 years of not touching a model or anything even resembling one,
I decided to give this one a go after some great inspiration from Eric Goedkoop's
thread over on the Aerodrome forums. The original model designed by Marek
was made to resemble this F2b here (have a look at the last profile on this page) http://www.cbrnp.com/profiles/quarter1/brisfit.htm.
I decided to go with something a little closer to home and picked the one piloted by Canadian Lt AE McKeever which lead to his 31 victories along with his gunner. This on is beautifully illustrated with the first profile on the page mentioned above. I can't say enough good things about the models designed by Marek Pacynski and distributed by DeWayne Barnett. DeWayne commissions some beautiful examples of Great War machinery and one of the best aspects of these kits is that they are all unlocked. They can be freely modified within any graphics program.

The first thing I did after opening up the file in Corel was to see if I could find a better rendition of PC10 (protective coatiing 10) that was used on most British aircraft of that time period. The original color used in the kit looked almost like olive drab on the monitor but for some reason printed very brown on my Canon. I wanted a color that would be difficult to distinguish between brown or dark green. A post on the Aerodrome explains the original process

'There were two P.C.10 formulas, the early formula used yellow ochre and carbon black to produce the color which was an olive green. The second formula used oxide of iron and carbon black which produce a brown, near chocolate in color.'
Click to expand...
For all it was worth....it still looks brown in the photo's :)

The original design of the fuselage was made up of the forward cockpit area,
gunners area and the sides as one piece and the top and bottom separately. The inside details and joining/glue tabs were made as a piece to be laminated to the large top/sides piece and I just couldn't get it right. Everything I tried resulted in ugly seams along the edges of the fuselage. Eric gave me the solution of using longerons along the length to provide a stable square gluing surface and it worked like a charm! The seams ended up tight and it added a great deal of stability to the kit. After the seam issue was resolved, simple changes to the cockpit colors made things appear a great deal more realistic.
Wood textures are abundant on the net and changes were done to the internal exposed structure and flooring that the kit had in a simple grey.

If anyone has any ideas as to what I can use for cockpit combing, I'd love to hear from you :) I found some insulated stranded wire that aproximates the size I need but I could never cut along the piece of wire straight enough to get it to look good. Trying this with the metal strands removed was equally as lousy. Needless to say...that old 5 volt adaptor is now a paper weight!

Hopefully more to come :)

Ron


f2bcoverwebws9.jpg


f2b1webla7.jpg


f2b2webss3.jpg


f2b3webgl2.jpg


f2b4webne1.jpg
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Hi everyone,

After about 2 years of not touching a model or anything even resembling one,
I decided to give this one a go after some great inspiration from Eric Goedkoop's
thread over on the Aerodrome forums. The original model designed by Marek
was made to resemble this F2b here (have a look at the last profile on this page) http://www.cbrnp.com/profiles/quarter1/brisfit.htm.
I decided to go with something a little closer to home and picked the one piloted by Canadian Lt AE McKeever which lead to his 31 victories along with his gunner. This on is beautifully illustrated with the first profile on the page mentioned above. I can't say enough good things about the models designed by Marek Pacynski and distributed by DeWayne Barnett. DeWayne commissions some beautiful examples of Great War machinery and one of the best aspects of these kits is that they are all unlocked. They can be freely modified within any graphics program.

The first thing I did after opening up the file in Corel was to see if I could find a better rendition of PC10 (protective coatiing 10) that was used on most British aircraft of that time period. The original color used in the kit looked almost like olive drab on the monitor but for some reason printed very brown on my Canon. I wanted a color that would be difficult to distinguish between brown or dark green. A post on the Aerodrome explains the original process

'There were two P.C.10 formulas, the early formula used yellow ochre and carbon black to produce the color which was an olive green. The second formula used oxide of iron and carbon black which produce a brown, near chocolate in color.'
Click to expand...
For all it was worth....it still looks brown in the photo's :)

The original design of the fuselage was made up of the forward cockpit area,
gunners area and the sides as one piece and the top and bottom separately. The inside details and joining/glue tabs were made as a piece to be laminated to the large top/sides piece and I just couldn't get it right. Everything I tried resulted in ugly seams along the edges of the fuselage. Eric gave me the solution of using longerons along the length to provide a stable square gluing surface and it worked like a charm! The seams ended up tight and it added a great deal of stability to the kit. After the seam issue was resolved, simple changes to the cockpit colors made things appear a great deal more realistic.
Wood textures are abundant on the net and changes were done to the internal exposed structure and flooring that the kit had in a simple grey.

If anyone has any ideas as to what I can use for cockpit combing, I'd love to hear from you :) I found some insulated stranded wire that aproximates the size I need but I could never cut along the piece of wire straight enough to get it to look good. Trying this with the metal strands removed was equally as lousy. Needless to say...that old 5 volt adaptor is now a paper weight!

Hopefully more to come :)

Ron


f2bcoverwebws9.jpg


f2b1webla7.jpg


f2b2webss3.jpg


f2b3webgl2.jpg


f2b4webne1.jpg
 
B

Bowdenja

Active Member
Sep 26, 2005
485
0
36
67
Madison, MS
Hey Ron..............

What about trying some of those coffee stirrers that look like itty bitty straws? I hope those are everywhere and not just down here in the south!

If not..................... um never mind.

Glad to see you building again............. and a great subject too!

john
 
B

Bowdenja

Active Member
Sep 26, 2005
485
0
36
67
Madison, MS
Hey Ron..............

What about trying some of those coffee stirrers that look like itty bitty straws? I hope those are everywhere and not just down here in the south!

If not..................... um never mind.

Glad to see you building again............. and a great subject too!

john
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Hi John :)

That might be a great idea! If I remember correctly....they were actually folded over on the edges toward the center so it would already be slit!
It feels good to cut things up again! Thanks John :)


Ron
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Hi John :)

That might be a great idea! If I remember correctly....they were actually folded over on the edges toward the center so it would already be slit!
It feels good to cut things up again! Thanks John :)


Ron
 
A

Amazyah

Senior Member
Mar 1, 2006
910
0
36
59
Foothills of the Smoky Mountains
www.cardmodelsnmore.com
I just ordered the Bristol Fighter as well as the F4U 1a Corsair.
Willja, another member on this forum, is designing a Corsair and since his introduction to this plane, I have fell in love with the design myself.
I love the way the wings bend and the huge prop too.
I cannot wait to build both of them. Both, very graceful designs!

Russell
 
A

Amazyah

Senior Member
Mar 1, 2006
910
0
36
59
Foothills of the Smoky Mountains
www.cardmodelsnmore.com
I just ordered the Bristol Fighter as well as the F4U 1a Corsair.
Willja, another member on this forum, is designing a Corsair and since his introduction to this plane, I have fell in love with the design myself.
I love the way the wings bend and the huge prop too.
I cannot wait to build both of them. Both, very graceful designs!

Russell
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Sorry about something so mundane....
I managed to find an almost reasonable solution for the cockpit combing.
That wire insulation I was blabbing about earlier did end up working. One has to first remove the wire strands leaving you with a long plastic tube. Carefully
invert your #11 blade and slowly slice your way down the tube. As the cut is too thin to slide over the card, using your fine scissors, follow that slice and remove about another millimeter of the insulation. After cutting to length and fitting, glue the ends down with a drop of crazy glue. I won't bore you again untill I actually do something more substantial :) Yuch I hate these closeups!

f2b5webih4.jpg
 
R

Ron

Member
Jan 12, 2004
77
0
16
62
Toronto, Canada
Sorry about something so mundane....
I managed to find an almost reasonable solution for the cockpit combing.
That wire insulation I was blabbing about earlier did end up working. One has to first remove the wire strands leaving you with a long plastic tube. Carefully
invert your #11 blade and slowly slice your way down the tube. As the cut is too thin to slide over the card, using your fine scissors, follow that slice and remove about another millimeter of the insulation. After cutting to length and fitting, glue the ends down with a drop of crazy glue. I won't bore you again untill I actually do something more substantial :) Yuch I hate these closeups!

f2b5webih4.jpg
 
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