Modelling in a more....sturdy media

Discussion in 'Internet Finds' started by ARMORMAN, Mar 29, 2005.


    ARMORMAN Guest

    Hey, all,

    I just wanted to point you in the direction of a cool site that uses paper model patterns.

    I've been talking with the creator about his book and updating the art inside. Thought I'd pass it on.

  2. dk

    dk New Member

    Interesting idea. Are there any better pictures of the models? I mean more clouse ups?
  3. AdamN

    AdamN Member

    They are very nicely done.

    What kind of glue does he use?

    Very cool idea.
  4. dhanners

    dhanners Member

    Those are some amazing-looking models.

    I can't guess how many times I'd cut my fingers trying to build one, though....

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Hey guys,

    I dont remember exactly when it was, or it may have been in a thread on an "email list" of a site not affiliated to this site, but I have been "dabbling in using pressed sheets of aluminum from soda cans as a material for constructing planes and other models. i found it funny that the site mentioned that it uses "technology as old as the hills" and space age adhesives cause thats the way i have been dabbling. Where I work, we use epoxy compounds extensively, not just as adhesives, but also as a material for the products we manufacture (we build transformer components, not the megatron and optimus prime type transformers, the "other kind"). Anyway, all of mine have been simple planes so far, that we "throw" around the plant, more like paper airplanes than actual models, but now that I see it has been done, I may look at this abit more seriously, I work 2 am til 9 or 10 am, and am the most senior employee in the plant so I have the time to dabble. hahaha Being the union vice president and cheif steward helps too lol.Anyway, I appreciate the link and info, and gonna look at it abit more seriously now.

  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member

  7. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    From memory the soda can planes use CA glue - this works really well
    on Aluminium (Aluminum) but you have to ensure the joined edges are really clean otherwise the CA bond doesn't develop full strength. CA is really easy to use on metal joins - place the two parts together and run a couple of drops into the join - the CA fills the join really well.


  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    The author of "Scale Models From Soda Cans" recommends Quick Grab glue. It works well with aluminum and paper.

  9. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I was curious enough to see if there was a similar product to "Quick Grab" in
    Oz - however Quick grab went out of business but their product now manufactured by a different company and called Omni-Stick.

    It doesn't look as if Omni-Stick has spread beyond the US.


  10. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Hey..........I kinda been playing with that idea myself.............always a day late and a dollar short! :cry:

    Guess there are too many empty Diet Dr Pepper can lying around. It does taste as good as the real thing! :lol:

    Bought the book...........just gotta see what he says. His work looked very good! :shock:

    Looks like he's pretty good with an airbrush too!

    Thanks for the link Armorman!
  11. bfam4t6

    bfam4t6 Member

    Bowdenja I saw this post a few hours ago and I am finishing off a diet pepsi as I write this :lol: This seems like it could be the perfect mix of paper modelling and plastic modelling. With paper models you get to literally make something 2d into an accurately 3d scaled object. You form all the shapes yourself. But with plastic kits you get the shape to start with, and you basically just paint and add extra details. Seems to me that you could do both building your planes this way. Take a look at the Douglas Skyraider in the above link! :shock: You could even punch our rivets and panel lines. This is awesome!!!

    ARMORMAN Guest

    I believe if you click on the pics on the page they link to more detailed pics.

    The interesting thing is that the rivets are made by using a cloth pattern wheel.

  13. It would be better if you could find dead soft Aluminum Alloy Sheet Stock* at an industrial supply house.You Will eliminate the step of cutting and flattening the cans. Plus you could use larger sheets

    * The material would have to be dead soft nearly 100% aluminum alloy as soda cans are because Aluminum Alloys normally used for shim stock and other applications work harden and crack far too easily when trying to bend them
  14. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Please refer to the other thread Gil pointed to.

    Aluminium cans might be soft aluminium in the US - they sure ain't in Oz.

    About the only way to use the local (Australian) soda cans is to anneal
    the canstock as per Gil's recipe. That is, coat with soap - heat until the soap
    blackens and leave to air cool.


  15. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Aluminum Foil Paper

    Seems we've rediscovered past history..., The following is a source of what is called "tooling foil". It is dead soft and can be formed into an incredible varitety of shapes without much trouble. I started a tutorial but didn't finish it as there just didn't seem to be that much interest in it at the time...,


    P.S. It's also available through Dick Blick but they just have St. Louis Crafts drop ship for them.
  16. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    I guess what they saying is right................ You wait around long enough.............everything old is new again! :D

    The "tooling foil" looks good......but do you think it might be too soft?

    The cans are easy to cut......with scissors and stuff, and seam to hold a shape better without the chance of creasing. And as Dustin pointed out looks like panel lines and rivets look darn good on that shiny aluminum! :D

    And dk pointed out a way to put the insignias and marking on, using the clear label techique! :D

    I was looking for another excuse to drink some more of those diet drinks. Maybe Wal-Mart got a sale going on them! :lol:

    Oh and on a different April's Field & Stream, a guy found a use for all those bottle caps from those adult beverages that seem to be consumed on the weekends...........Fishing lures! :shock: He bends them in half puts a hook on one end and a snap swivel on the other. He says Coor's Light seems to work the best............but I think that's what he drink! 8)

    Man......maybe I got too many hobbies!

    ARMORMAN Guest

    Another source is print shops that use "disposable" aluminum plates.

    ....NO WAIT FORGET I SAID THAT! (Can't let them have my secret source!)


    >Whew!< That was close!


  18. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    From the Gooney Bird Files

    Hello All,

    Aluminum hardens as it is worked. Just assembling the piece in an aluminum foil paper structure is enough to make it fairly stiff. The following is a nose piece design for a 1:25 C-47B. It was easy to turn this out and this was the first attempt..., and I can exert more force on its surface than I ever would on a strictly paper model. Truth be know you can build an all aluminum model and it's not really that hard. Just takes the time dedicated to learning a new modeling art.


  19. rowiac

    rowiac Member

    I bought the Can-Du book about 3 years ago (forgot how obnoxious that web page is), and "harvested" a bunch of aluminum cans per the instructions. I even bought a tube of Quick-Grab glue at a local Michaels, but then I got sidetracked and never made any more progress.

    Since then I haven't seen Quick-Grab in stores anymore, so I guess the fact that the company went out of business explains that. As far as I can tell, it seems similar to typical contact cement. It sure worked well on a broken piece on my car's plastic console (way better than 5-minute epoxy, by the way), but I never tried it on paper (or aluminum) after all that. :roll:

    Anyway, the book is interesting and it seems a though you could make some really nice looking models that might be more durable than paper, but I'll bet there will be sharp edges here and there if you're not careful.

  20. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    I bought the book also and decided I needed to become a decent cardmodeler before becoming a soda can popper..., went through collecting the soda cans cutting them up cleaning the paint off with some really nasty "Even Removes Epoxy Paints" paint stripper and decided it's really easier and less costly to just buy the stuff from the suppliers. End of that story. Want to use soda cans to build model airplanes? Knock yourself out as the paint remover probably will do the trick for you..., One other point that Charlie pointed out is that the stuff needs to be annealed before it will form easily. The way CanDo does the models doesn't require any forming other than that required for basic cardmodeling. All aluminum models are on the plus side but other than this the stuff has a nasty side which the annealed tooling foil doesn't and that's the sharp edges. I've found that the tooling foil can be easily bonded to cardmodel printouts on 100% cotton paper and formed to your hearts content. The whole business is very seductive as once hooked it's hard to go back and do a card model with all those discontinuities parading as continous curves when you know that this wouldn't be so with the aluminum foil paper technique...., In a nutshell CanDo misses the main point by putting the aluminum first and cardmodeling second. This was a bad influence on my thought processes as it caused me to think the same way for awhile until the thought hit me that it was inside out or vice versa and that aluminum was just a media subcategory under the major theme of cardmodeling. The following shots show some of the experimental stuff...,



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