Modeling Paint

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by Cascade Man, Apr 6, 2010.

  1. Cascade Man

    Cascade Man New Member

    Well once again I learned the hard way...:curse: I bought an on30 critter get ($49) and was very excited to build it. I got the whole resin kit done perfectly, now painting stage... So I wanted to paint it an flat orange kind of color (not glossy!!) so I bought "Testors enamel orange" in a bottle at my local hardware store. Turns out the paint was thick, horrible for the plastic parts and very glossy making my kit look rather nasty. It was beyond repair so I threw it away muttering obscenities. What kind of paints should I use for my resin and plastic models?? I think the enamels I should probably stay away from. I'm looking for a company that sells FLAT paints for my models (spray paint, bottles, it doesn't matter). PLEASE HELP! Should I use weathering powders to weather my resin painted kits? HELP!

    Cascade Man:mrgreen: (Newby modeler ruining kits left and right due to inexperience :p)
  2. zakopious

    zakopious Member

    Testor's Dull-cote can be sprayed over most paints to make them appear flat.
  3. pgandw

    pgandw Active Member

    With resin kits, you have to wash off the mold release before the paint will stick properly. Usually, some dish washing soap and a toothbrush will take care of the mold release. The kit directions should include something about cleaning the mold release agent.

    I've always heard that the 1st coat should be a sprayed-on primer. While I have successfully brush painted cab roofs and smoke boxes on plastic steamers (before I could afford an airbrush, I would lean to airbrushing where the masking wasn't impractical.

    my thoughts, your choices
  4. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member


    I have three airbrushes on the shelf some where. these days I almost never paint with them. When I want to spray I use regular spray paint cans from the hardware store. as mentioned the dull coat is great for getting rid of the shine. also gloss cote is useful when you want a shine. both can help protect decals, and hide the dreaded decal shine/line.

    When I want to paint with a brush I go to the craft/hobby store and buy the acrylic paint in the little plastic bottles. I'm pretty much done with the hobby paints, they don't store reliably, and they can get expensive. it is depressing to grab just the right color, and find out is is dried up or gloppy; check the rest of your paints, and throw out thirty or forty dollars worth of paint. the craft acrylics can be mixed easily, and clean up with water. after you have cleaned up the brush work some liquid soap into the brush to keep them from hardening up while stored.

    Then, the golden rule for painting miniatures, when you aren't sure of the paint, paint something from your junk box first, and then proceed to your work piece. When disaster strikes and it looks like the paint ruined the piece one can try paint strippers, and or brake fluid (I'm not sure how that would go with a resin kit)

    Bill Nelson

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