Modelik Male Mk IV and rivets

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by andrew ferguson, Jan 10, 2006.

  1. The rivets, oh the rivets...

    I'm just about to embark on my second project, which is Modelik's Male Mk IV WWI tank and by conservative estimation it will need about 800 rivets added to it. This frightens me.

    Are there any nifty tricks/tips/techniques for making, installing and painting rivets? The idiot approach is to slice up lengths of plastic rod, attach each with white glue and paint them individually. But there's gotta be a simpler way, otherwise i made need therapy when this project is done. Anyone?

    Also, any comments from people who may have built this particular model as to accuracy, fit etc?

    thanks all, as always.

  2. silverw

    silverw Member

  3. An idea i just came up with. What about using straight pins? They have a partially domed shaped head, are very cheap and you just stick them in the appropriate spots, right up to the head, which will represent the rivet head.....probably won't even need to glue them as friction should hold them in place.

    My plan is to stick them in something like a chunk of cardboard and spray paint them en masse. Once dry, individually stick them into the rivet locations marked on the model. No cutting of plastic rod, embossing which is tricky, glue through a syringe etc.

    My only concern is whether inserting all these pins into the model will damage it structurally. (But it may even strengthen it).

    I'm enlarging my tank model to 1/18 scale so the pins will be relatively smaller than on a 1/25 model and thus i think it makes the idea somewhat feasible.

    I'd be interested in feedback from more experienced modellers..
  4. Texman

    Texman Guest

    The pin idea is a good one. I would recommend clipping the shaft of the
    pin down some, not using the full length. I would also recommend, if I may,
    that you predrill holes where your planning on putting the pins. This would accomplish two things. First, it would let you drill the holes prior to kit assembly, and second, it would let you place the pin/rivits after main assembly, thus preventing what would most certainly be a serious poking!

    Another couple of options are small glue drops (I have seen this used very
    effectively), or trying pushing the paper from the opposite side. I would use
    that as a last resort only.

    Hope it helps

  5. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    This is a tip that I ran across on Ian Sadler’s And Rafalski Michal’s Web site I have not tired this but I am building GPM's FT17 and will be giving it a try.

    Coloring the could be a issue I have used Acrylic clear paint tinted with water color pigments this allows me to get a near perfect color match to the model. A final misting of future floor wax will give you a consistent finish.

    Jim Nunn
  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    One pretty neat way to make rivets is to take a piece of piano wire the diameter of the finished rivet and cut a length to make a punch. On the cutting face a 20 degree angle is ground by chucking the wire in a Dremel tool and grinding it in. I ususally grind the other end to 0 degrees for use as a paper hole punch. The cutting edge must be sharp so use a fine stone or diamond flat to finish the edge.

    To punch select card stock or aluminum can material. I use a polyethylene sheet backing and put a layer of plastic wrap on top to "catch" the rivet heads as they're punched out. For a flat rivet use the 0 degree edge and for an oval head use the 20 degree head. Don't use too much driving force, just enough to punch out the rivet into the poly backing. When you have enough just lift up the plastic wrap and they'll all be stuck to it.

    It also does a pretty good job of punching nice round wholes in card stock.

  7. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

  8. cygielski

    cygielski Member

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