Model power transfer caboose, glue residue and weathering chalk oh my!

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by LIRR, Dec 27, 2004.

  1. LIRR

    LIRR Member

    Im embarking on a project where im turning a model power transfer caboose into something worthwile.

    First, what type of trucks and knuckle couplers should i drop in, i dont have a picture but the car is marked with a "Saftey first" on the side of the flatcar part and an 8200 on the coup, If anyone has any idea what im talking about please give me some advice on what trucks and couplers to drop in there.

    Next, I tore the out of scale tool boxes and the coup off and its left a nasty residue, will goo-gone solve my troubles? Theres also some strange marker writing on one side of the coup, any ideas on how to get rid of that?

    And last: This caboose will be a peice of MOW eqiupment my RR got second hand from the PRR (I dont know if PRR ever used these things but hey, modelers licence damnit!) and they converted into a "jack of all trades hack" they use it for a caboose, a storage place for odds and ends during MOW duty, and a weed sprayer in the spring time. This thing has seen its fare share of dirt and grime, will weathering chalk sealed up with some dullcoat be good for this? Im not into painting on weathering because im horrible with a paint brush and most of my paint jobs are simple 2 color mask jobs with my airbrush. Are there any other simple weathering tools out there?

    Thanks for your time.
  2. LIRR

    LIRR Member

    Heres a picture of said caboose, mine doesnt have the crane

  3. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

    You'll probably be able to change out the wheelsets rather than replace the trucks. On this hopper I used Kadee 33" frieght car wheels as they were a drop in fit. Kadees are my favorites followed by JayBee and Intermountain. I'm betting your draft gear boxes will take Kadee #5 couplers with no problem.

    It would be best just to carefully sand it off. More than likely a solvent type glue was used and that would permanently scar the plastic. Lettering can usually be removed with Microset decal solution.

    I do most all my weathering with pastels and water soluable acrylics sealed down with Krylon Matte Clear (5x the paint for half the price). Practice and patience are the key.

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  4. LIRR

    LIRR Member

    Thanks for the advice shay, I LOVE your stuff in the bashing forum, I had that hopper when i was little I "Weathered" it with some black paint streaks running down the side, Not bad for a 10 year old i guess. Something that worrys me is that bar under the coupler, im thinking about losing it seeing as its not prototipical and it seems like it would limit coupler movement.
  5. grlakeslogger

    grlakeslogger Member

    If there is glue residue on the deck, I've had good luck with sanding it smooth (hardwood block+double faced tape+220 grit sandpaper=flat, hard sanding block cheap). I then get out my NWSL Chopper and some Kappler 1x8. I make new decks and weather them with washes of thinned down browns and grays, either model RR paints or artist's acrylics. I use Kappler wood because their sugar pine is easy to weather/distress without cracks or splits and does a great job of soaking up my washes for a varied look to the individual boards. I use their 1x8's because the very tiny extra thickness is nearly unnoticeable. Good luck with you project!

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