Model Of The Week: Imperial Guard Armour Builds

[Tirick]

Inspired by Silveroxide, I've decided to start a build record of the paper model's I'm building to support my (as of yet) burgeoning Imperial Guard army. I currently intend to focus my $ efforts on Infantry and use solely paper models for the Armoured elements, with the intent to match at least in part the level of detail possible with the plastic kits.

A good place to start was obviously (for me) Armorman's additions to Flarebaffled's thread on 40K armour, found here: http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155919

I've started my Armour collection (I won't count the Baneblade as it is not technically part of the Army list) a with a pair of Chimera's, using Patoroch's 'Super Chimera' templates. The templates are available on one the links Armorman so kindly collected for us, I urge readers to peruse the provided links as there are some excellent models all throughout. The Chimera's are intended as support for my first platoon, comprised of a command squad and two 10-man squads. Eventually the command squad will be attached to a heavy weapon's team, so will not need transport (that may change of course).

With these first two, as my experience with custom building is limited, I'm intending to build these as planned, although I've made a few modifications for thickness to the track sections, as you can see in some of the later pictures.

More to come...
Sean

 

[silveroxide]

Good show Mr t. I believe that if the viewers here do the build threads for others to follow, we can finish off Patoroch's models by the end of the year. Are you going to leave your Chimera in white and compare it with the color one? Or are you going to make it into a different Cadian color scheme?

Do not forget to build the basilik. It is the best weapon to keep the enemy away. The purpose is to reach out and touch someone. As for estimating distance, when you get to the tourney, Check out the board. If it is on a plywood sheet, You already have the known distance from long end to long end, 8feet. The short end is 4feet. anything else, discreetly measure the field. Some people call it cheating, I call it reconnaissance of the field of battle.:twisted:

Waiting to see more.

 

[Tirick]

I'm planning my entire army as a consolidated whole (rather than a mongrel collection of worlds), so will focus on a standard scheme; I've elected to go with a city-camo for the infantry, so I'll try my hand at painting the chimeras the same. I'm tempted to leave the paper bare before painting, but I fear it will just suck up the paint, so I might go with a light basecoat in Citadel spray first. At the least I will try to make every detail in 3d so it is not lost in the painting process.

Funny you should mention the Basilisk. I'd already one planned, and was hoping to make it next. I've sworn not to buy more infantry until I've painted the platoon I have, I'll likely say the same with the paper models: build/paint before tackling another.

Thanks!

 

[silveroxide]

For painting, use an automotive gray primer for a base coat. This will reduce the soaking of the paint on the bare paper. Also the primer is a good sealant. Sometimes I leave the model in primer gray and do a wash over it to give it the dirty used look and it also helps to show the relief. Good luck and post some more pics.

 

[Tirick]

Finished some more components, really cleaning up the side of the trackpods and panels on the main body. The 'main' parts remaining are the turret and the track, the first which will be easy, the second will require some thought to ensure the 3d elements 'pop' once painted. I've some ideas around the lasguns as well, which I might model up and print out rather than try to customize them. I really built these parts out of the box so to speak, save the barrels, which I cut strips for and carefully trimmed out the buckle to give the full 3d effect. I'm happy with the results.

I'm a little startled to see that the LeMan Russ is so much smaller than the Chimera, really the opposite of modern military. MBT's tend to be huge compared to the corresponding APC's. I'd build the LeMan Russ in a fit of inspiration after the Baneblade. I really like it, Flarebaffled did an awesome job of the model and the texture, but it will not fit my painting schema so I may either repaint it or use it as an auxiliary for now.

Enjoy!
Sean

 

[silveroxide]

Good work as always Tirick (Sean). A good example of big is the comparison of the Bradley next to the Abrams. The Abrams sits lower than the Bradley and both are just as long.
If you wish to have rivets almost the same size of the Plastic model, I sometimes use straight pin heads cut off close to the head. I drill the holes with another straight pin as a drill and insert each one individually. That technique is explained in the other site, papermodelers, in my "Limber and Caisson" thread.

 

[Tirick]

Pin-heads are a great idea! I've been mulling the problem around in my head for a while and could not figure a way to make them consistent.

I had another question for you mate... What are the advantages of an automotive primer over regular miniature primer? Is it thicker?

 

[silveroxide]

I had another question for you mate... What are the advantages of an automotive primer over regular miniature primer? Is it thicker?[/quote]

For automotive primers, you have a choice of at least three shades of grey and one of them is a rough finish which is sandable which is great for structures. There are also different kinds of primers, Reddish brown, and white. Then there is the cost factor, more spray for the money.

If you intend to spray the whole model with a matte or satin finish, it should have an undercoat of primer or you will get what I call hot spots where the paint will have rough or uneven finish. As for the finish, the primer is just a little thicker but that is due to the nozzle, but it is almost the same as the Tamiya or Testor sprays.

 

[Tirick]

I typically hand-paint all my mini's, including armour as I've never had the opportunity (or the $) to invest in an airgun. I usually undercoat with Citadel spray though as I've found other brands thicker. I can try the automotive spray, I was just curious of the benefit.

Thank you

 

[Tirick]

Been working on this off/on for the last few days, so I've a collection of progress shots to share. I mucked up the turret pretty badly, merely by following the tab-gluing patterns, so the access hatch does not seat correctly. I've jimmied it, but on the next build... eventually, I may try to resolve the issue. The end result should be more flat with a more pronounced exterior edge, but it looks alright to me, so I'm leaving it.

I did a bit of custom work on the front cannons just to give them some more detail once the paint is on it. While they don't look quite like Heavy Bolters I'm sure they'll pass. In addition I convinced our masking department at work to cut me out some .060" (1.5 mm) circles to try out for the rivet heads. They work pretty well, the tape is meant for clinging to aluminum so I have hopes it's withstand painting/play. The circles are a bits of trick to get out of the tape sections, but better than me trying to cut them by hand. If they don't work out I'll try silver's process with pinheads.

I was not happy with the basic design for the tensioner rod sections, so I did a quick model up of some, printed in paper instead of card as there are quite little bits. The assembly went swimmingly. If the lasguns for the passenger compartment work out and anyone is interested I can post the .pdo for both. I also built up the main guns, assembly went fairly well; I'll likely dress them up a little more before painting.

Finally, I'm debating over laminating lettering onto the side panels, or making up a masking/painting template. I've decided on a world/numbering for my Company, and related lettering to match.

Comments and crits are appreciated,
Sean

 

[ARMORMAN]

I used a small hole punch I picked up at Hobby Lobby for about $3 US.

 

[Tirick]

Now that is a stellar idea mate! I had no idea they made hole-punches that small.

 

[ARMORMAN]

Yep, I have found 3 different sizes as well as a leather punch:

 

[matzieq]

I too thought that making an IG army entirely of paper would be cool. I've made a Leman Russ Vanquisher and one Chimera so far, and yeah... it's going to take a while. But I got me another cool hobby that satisfies my 'modeling/converting/treadhead' fix in abundance and is very easy on my wallet.
I'm very impressed by your models.

 

[Tirick]

Well I've finished (the model anyway) for Chimera #1 and test sprayed to ensure it works well. You'll note the fixed lasguns are now assembled, which worked out better than I hoped.

Painting will likely wait a bit, as I've a few other delayed projects on the go. I'm hoping the grey is a close match to my intended base coat, and I'll be likely painting in a city camo to match my guard.

A thank you again Armorman for the tip, the 1/16" punch works really well for the rivets.

Enjoy!
Sean

 

[silveroxide]

Great job Sean, so what is next on your agenda?

 

[ARMORMAN]

Well done. Sean!

 

[devox]

Very sharp looking, maybe once I get unlazy I'll post some pics of my IG and SM builds in progress. One other thing I was working on mine to make them look even less paper was just adding some custom made kit. I started painting some white glued rolled up gauze to add as rolled up camo netting to the side and was working on a fuel drum made outta the body of a marker. Even without additions based on your figure's painting, I'm sure it will be hard to tell they aren't made of plastic.

 

[Tirick]

Thank you!

I'm not certain what's next. Part of me wants a Hellhound or a Devil Dog, but I might go for a set of Sentinels. I'm very partial to the Malcador, but it's sort of a 'super heavy' and I've already a Baneblade.

of course there is always the Valkyrie...

too many choices!

 

[Tirick]

I've uploaded the Chimera Components file in .pdo format (it is in moderation). I can't seem to upload a picture for it in the download area, so here is one in case you missed it earlier...

Enjoy!
Sean