Miniwax Wood Conditioner

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Hueydriver, Oct 22, 2006.

  1. Hueydriver

    Hueydriver New Member

    On another forum (believe it was FG's), someone had used wood conditioner to get a better "feel" or stiffness to the card stock. As I'm about to build a Maly TBD (horrible feel to the card), I'm looking to get some help to keep the fuse and wings straight without bowing. Anyone use wood conditioner on the card before?

  2. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    If you can scan the thing and use the type of card you prfer. I have the Maly TBD and this stuff is woodpulp imbedded into burlap, on the good side the design is pretty good, builds into an ok detailed plane, colors are not too far off and is a neat subject. I haven't tried the minwax stuff, I once used the krylon matte spray and it sorta worked, but left the paper just as stiff. Forget rolling tubes with the stuff, if you have to, trace those type of parts onto 20lb typewriter paper and color/paint it yourself. Good luck
  3. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Minwax Wood Hardener

    The hardener works well but will make the paper slightly translucent which may not be a problem on mostly wood chip style paper. The paper will be noticeably "stiffer" not as hard as cyanoacrylates but more so than crystal clear. I suggest you snip off a small piece of the paper as a sample and try soaking it with the hardener to determine what you want to do.

  4. cardmodeler

    cardmodeler Member

    Where did you get the kit for the TBD from? I've not seen that one. Is it out of print?
  5. Hueydriver

    Hueydriver New Member

    The TBD is a Maly kit dated 1991.....I've looked for one for some time and found it on e-bay. The kit is not printed anymore (as far as I know). The Devastator was a pivotal aircraft in that it was the first monoplane flown en masse from USN carriers. Lots of wing area, it must have been a favorite with pilots prior to the war.

    Wilco on the other help....I guess scanning a model is always a good thing. I'll then have a back-up for the future.

  6. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    The practice of scanning old models is pretty much the norm for me. The pulp product of some kit's has such a permeable nap to it that it should be considered a replacement for Irish Linen ... lol.

    The only problem of scanning a model for me is... now I have it in digital form and now I have to 'fix it' so I then spend a few days making parts work and mirror lines so that the model lines up properly. Then using online references I add new pieces to the final product for details.

    I then take my finals and print them on more manageable stock.

    Maly Modelarz has a PT-76 I am working on that after time has yellowed somewhat and the magenta ink used has 'turned' on some pages.
  7. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member


    I've tried the conditioner on an FG GeeBee Z. I brushed on a couple of coats and the colors didn't run (printed on a Canon inkjet). The colors did pop out a bit more, but I don't recall much difference in the consistency of the paper. I did notice that the ink still ran a little if I used too much glue (Elmer's gel). I'd recommend using a spray acrylic after the conditioner.
  8. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    This is an Interesting Idea!

    Hi Gang! as I build most of my models re-scaled to 1:35 off B&W scans (NO! They are not pirate models!!) or technical dawings, and then paint them later, I decided early on to experiment with using spray fixative/matte varnish on the parts before, during and after assembly.

    First I used Testors Dullcote; which was expensive, and stank. Then, I tried Grumbacher Tuffilm matte spray fixative, which was also expensive, and stank even worse.. So bad, it gave Mrs F even more headaches than she used to have. :)

    Krylon has a couple of low-odour (that means, they are alcohol based, rather than lacquer) based spray fixatives: one is called "Prezerve-It", intended for digital photos, and the other is simply called "Low Odor Spray Fixative" (I will put in the respective product numbers later, once I get down to the shop).

    What I usually do is this:

    1. Laminate what needs laminating, and press it flat. After lamination process has dried, spray both sides liberally with the spray. once it is surface-dry, press it again.

    2. Spray the rest of the model parts, on both sides, let them air dry and then, if necessary, press them.

    3. Assemble as usual. Allow glue to dry thoroghly and then (you guessed it) "Spray it again Sam".

    Once dry, the card behaves and paints like the "other P"

    I gather that this Minwax product bears no relationship to the product called "PC Wood Petrifier" which is a water-thin air-catalyzing epoxy product used to stabilize a) rotting/soft wood and b) thin parts of wood carvings? I have sprayed this, with great success.

    Thanx for the retirement wishes!

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