metal wheels

jimnrose

Member
I'm attempting to replace the plastic wheels on my IHC rolling stock but unable to use the Kaydee wheels because the axyle diameter is thicker and won't rotate in the truck cavity. IHC doesn't offer metal wheels nor provide information on replacement options.
Someone recommended Intermountain wheels but I'm not able to locate a supplier. Does anyone have experience with IHC cars?
Any help will be appreciated. Jim
 

shamus

Registered Member
Hi Jim,
Here is the address for International Hobby Corp.
413 E.
Alleghenny Ave.
Phila. PA 19134
Phone (215)426-2873*FAX (215)634-2122
31" Metal wheel sets which are RP-25 part nos. 4254 12 31'RP-25
4255 36' RP-25
They also do Passenger car trucks 4240 Black truck
4241 Silver truck

Shamus
waver.gif

http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
 

jimnrose

Member
Shamus,
Thanks again for your assistance. I purchased IHC's freight cars with 33" wheels & called IHC to upgrade the wheel sets from plastic to metal. They said they do not have metal 33" wheels available and could not recommend a supplier. I've been told (& it makes sence) nto to run the plastic wheels because the plasticizer can transfer to the track especially at the rail joints and turnouts. Sooo,I picked up Kaydee wheels and made the swap. Problem: cars no longer run smoothly but instead drag on the rails. Comparing the two type wheels in the same truck shows the IHC wheels have a 40 mil play but the Kaydee are snug. Checking the demensions and shape differences (wheel diameter the same; axle length only 15 mil difference; but the axle diameter is 90 mils for the Kaydee and come to a point versus 64 mil for IHC with bullet shape ends). I filed the Kaydee to verify the problem is not the axle length. Unless I can find metal wheels with thinner axle diameters, I'll have to replace both the trucks and wheels.
Take care & looking forward to your progress. On my end I've upgraded by yard and added a reverse wye to an island that will be a take off of your lumber camp.
I'm motivated by the pro. Jim
 

shamus

Registered Member
Hi Jim,
Athern wheels might be your problem solver Jim, I have one IHC 40' flat car, and Athern wheels went straight into it no problem.

What's this about your railroad, interchange with the Badger Creek Lumber Company
rolleyes.gif



Shamus
waver.gif

http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
 

jimnrose

Member
Shamus,
I'll give Athern a shot, thanks. My nameless railroad has a theme in one section based on your inspiration but I'm a slow mover and will be still scratching my head long after you have completed your latest creation. Take care, Jim
 

George

Member
Hello Jim!

I tried Kadee wheels in the 80's on Rivarossi passenger cars and thought they were garbage. All the axles bent over time, and didn't have as deep a flange as I'd wanted. They took turnouts very poorly as well

When IHC cars used to be AHM in the 60's and 70's, beautiful insulated wheel sets were a standard and unfortuately sacrificed in the 80's for the "P" word, profit.

I've complained to deaf ears at IHC about this feature, and you're absolutely correct that their plastic wheels are a miserable compliment to a terrific product, and Kadee wheels are no substitute either.

Unfortunately, the only advice I can give you there is to replace the entire truck for a new one with metal wheels made to fit. This can run into some $$$ for the passenger cars, but not as bad for replacing freight trucks if you have to.

George.
 

LC

New Member
Have any of you tried taking Labelle 102 clear oil and putting just a drop in the pockets on the trucks.
I have used it on my Rivarossi passenger
cars for two years now, smoothes them right
out and the cars just glide along.
Still have the original wheels too. Have
also used it on freight cars as well, same
result.
Lance
 

George

Member
SPEAK OF THE DEVIL!!!

I opened up the July 2001 Railroad Model Craftsman last night and SHINGO!!! An article on Rivarossi "HO" passenger cars!

I went straight to the information on WHEELS and was reminded of another problem with this folly. Rivarossi's wheels are a scale 33" in diameter. The prototype's are 36". The Kadee wheels are 36". Great, you would think, but NO. This gentleman had the same problem we all do when trying to switch wheels, with the BRAKE SHOES getting in the way of the 36" wheel. That's why your cars are DRAGGING along just as mine did.

The author recommended taking a hobby knife and gently shaving the brake shoes to help the wheel clearance.

mad.gif
HARNK! NEXT CONTESTANT PLEASE!!
mad.gif


I give this advice a MAJOR thumbs down, as I tried this both with a blade and an emery board. I even managed to break a shoe off, which prompted me to go back to the manufacturer's wheels. Never force a fit, right?

Then, I found that the Kadee axles were longer than the Rivarossi's the hard way. The plastic trucks had been bent OUTWARD, making it nearly impossible for the old wheels' axle tips to fit into the wells in the truck frame.
mad.gif


Not to castigate this fellow, the rest of the article was interesting enough, including some good information regarding diaphragm and coupler installation. There's also an interesting diagram illustrating how he thinks the centre wheels on a "C" truck should be able to float vertically, maintaining the weight of the car on the end axles of the truck to keep it on the track.

He also provides information on replacing the plastic stud with a screw for truck mounting, something anyone will need to execute to install new trucks.

I still think the only way around this problem is total truck replacement, outfitted with wheels manufactured to fit and operate properly in the new truck. This even allows you the opportunity to outfit your passenger cars with the appropriate truck style for your prototype railroad.

George.

[This message has been edited by George (edited 05-30-2001).]
 
Top