Maybe a new way to make cardmodels more resilient!?!

Discussion in 'Extended Mediums' started by Vahmp, May 15, 2010.

  1. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Hi all,

    Been on the site for awhile now, posting here and there (and downloading models I like). sign1

    Now I wanted to help/contribute with something atleast (the title of the thread I think is self explanitory)...:yep:

    While I was reading afew more threads, I noticed that the guys who do 1/1 helmets, use resin and bondo to make a hardshell out of the papermodel.

    So, I had an IDEA!!! :idea:

    With the exception of bondo, why not use fibreglass resin to make the paper plane, spaceship, boat what-not, more resilient (almost like the plastic model kits)?

    What I mean is...
    After the model is built (or in the building process) brush the model parts or whole model with fiberglass resin.

    The reason for this ider-o-mine is...

    To give models a more of a 3D look, I'd print several pages of the exterior hull (into Sci-Fi ships), where there are lots-a-panels and greebles, to use as individually cut pieces, for over lays.

    That's what brought me to starting this thread.

    Now, I normally work with fiberglass on custumizing motorcycles, so I think this tecnic would work well on papermodels.

    Resin is transparent (so you can see the printed detail after giving the model atleast 2 coatings), can be sanded smooth and then painted with clear coat to iliminate the frosted look and scratches sanding gives.

    So... what do you all think about this tecnic?
    Is it fesable :?:, did any of you already do it :oops:, or am I just blowing smoke....?:-:)steamtrain::flush1:
  2. bulldogowner

    bulldogowner Destroyer of Spam Moderator

    Sounds interesting...I have none of the supplies needed, but it sounds like you do...why not give it a quick test run and post the results? I think many may be interested in the outcome.
  3. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Hi Bull,


    Any autostore or autopaint supply store carries supplies!!!
    You can get what you need there, just ask for the 2 part fiberglass resin.

    As for me testing...

    It'll be awhile before I can do it.
    I'm in the middle of 1/1 house renovations here at home. Even buildin a Hobby Room, so all my builds at the moment, are at a stand still.

    As soon as I'm done, I'll test it out (but I belive it has been tested? On the paper helmets as I mentioned.) But by all means, GO FOR IT!:thumb:
  4. fdisk42

    fdisk42 New Member

    The only issue I could see would be from the heat generation of the curing resin. Shouldn't be a huge concern unless you're applying this to some sort of soft plastic or styrofoam though. Or unless you're trying to build models out of flash paper.
  5. RocketmanTan

    RocketmanTan Well-Known Member

    It sounds nice, but I use a laserjet and I fear the fiberglass coating might smudge the ink at first :confused:
  6. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Nah... heat won't be a issue because you'd be brushing the resin on in thin layers.:thumb:
    And yes, it's not a good idea for use on soft plastic or styrofoam.
  7. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    A quick way to prevent smudging from happening, is to give the PM 1 or 2 thin layers of clear spray paint. The paper will soak the paint, and once dried, ink will be sealed for good. Then you can brush on the resin with no fear of smudges.:thumb:

    This is the same tecnic they use on 1/1 paper helmet models, over at "The Dented Helmet" forum.
  8. PaperEngTech

    PaperEngTech New Member

    Hi Laterz,

    It sounds like an interesting idea. I will also test this and then add to this thread with my personal experience. I'll be able to try the fiberglass resin idea with both pigment based and regular ink prints.

    On another note, I also use additional parts to create raised areas to create a more 3d look. Especially with aircraft cockpits and instrument panels. A tutorial about creating an enhanced 3d look with that technique (including pictures of course) would be really nice.

    Thanks for sharing your idea with us!
  9. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    sign1sign1sign1 The name's Vahmp. Laterz, is my way of sayin "See ya later, bye".

    I've finally used the resin tec, and it works out fine (sorry no pics, the cam's on the fritz).
    As for the 3d effect with layering tecnic, isn't hard at all!

    All you need to do is, print the whole PM kit out, look at where it has planeling textures, and reprint those peices. Then you cut out the panels and glue them to there coresponding places on the main kit you're building. And depending on the part, you can do a build-up of layers to get the look and thickness you want!

    Side note; If you do a 3 or more layer build-up... Just print the parts you're using as layers, once. The rest of the underlaying layers, can be unprinted cardstock (cut to the exact same size as the printed layer part). After you glue all layers together, just color in the white edges.

    Hope that this explaination was understandable.
    If not, just say so ok, and I'll try to explain it abit better. :thumb::thumb::thumb:
  10. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    I think I can use my "IMPERIAL GUARD TIE INTETCEPTOR" as an example.
    It's not completely a total papermodel (80% of it is comon paper, cardstock and cerialbox cardboard). But the tecnic I'm using is the same, paper layering/sandwiching effect.

    Here's the link to the album in my Photobucket, that contains all the WIP.
    Just start at the bottom of page 3, and work your way backwards to page 1. ships/Star Wars Imperial Tie Int/?start=40
  11. sidewinder747

    sidewinder747 New Member

    Nice looking models vahmp, are they made using the fiberglass resin coating?
  12. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Thanks Sidewinder! :thumb:

    No, the T.I. is a model made out of everything and anything I could get my greedy little hands on.sign1
    Paper, plastic wood, wire, even a pingpong ball.sign1sign1
    It's even got the interior of the cockpit (all, but the control wheel/handle, is in regular paper, brushed with CA glue, then painted). But the model is about 75% paper.

    As for a model using the fiberglass resin method...
    I'm working on one (Re-doing one of "Jan Rukr's" Icarus models, from Planet of the Apes), but haven't gotten to the resin point yet (regular job is taking up alot of my time right now... wall1 sign1 )
  13. MTK

    MTK Active Member

    Vahmp. This has been done and was started by CJTK here in this very forum. Search for "Paper to Plastic" There was an original thread that was started back in 06, but it has dropped off or been deleted. As a matter of fact, thousands of people world wide have caught on and are now creating their own kits and armour as a result of these threads.:mrgreen::thumb:
  14. HawkBlade

    HawkBlade New Member

  15. MTK

    MTK Active Member

    Yep. That's the one.:thumb:
  16. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Hi MTK,

    That's a cool thread, but from what I've seen in the fotos, he's making molds from the model.:thumb:
    Wasn't exactly what I was talking about, but that's another good way to do it.sign1
    In my opinion, fibre-glassing is good for one to one models (ie; wearable paper helmets and armor).:thumb:

    But I was talking about just using the resin for smaller kits (to make them hard and also not loose any of the artwork on the outside (which then, panel lines and such can be scribed in).:thumb:
  17. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I have a small sailboat model that I made of the real boar I had. Wanting it to last long, I poured (outside, in the open air) liquid crazy glue, over the surfaces of the model before painting them. I just found that model, missing a wooden seat on the inside, and most of the other fittings, the other day, in my basement. The hull is extremely intact. I made the model 23 years ago. I came to the conclusion after that experience, that I was going to try and minimize the use of toxic materials in future models. I have made a few models made of PVC parts using the bonding agent for PVC to put them together. I always return to Cardstock models, especially since the advent of high quality printers, because of the easy, and the recyclable nature of them. I think if one really wanted them to last, you must use a good quality glue, a pigment based ink, then consider putting them in argon filled glass cases. Trying to remove dust from delicate models can destroy them just as much as anything else. This is the best way to make them last, without going to noxious chemical route. Doping paper with chemicals almost makes me think that it would just be better to build plastic models, but then again, plastic models, the good ones, cost a fortune! (all this is just my opinion, for what it's worth, if anything!)

    If you come up with a good technique, post it. I am sure many, including myself, would like to know. I have just sprayed clear coat on model, and that made them last a real long time, but these were paper planes you toss, and it was just to keep the moisture off and out of them. :)
  18. Vahmp

    Vahmp Member

    Great that you recycle! :thumb:
    Most of my scratchbuilds are all made from recycled material (in other words, built from everyday garbage. sign1 )

    My reasons for wanting to coat PMs in resin are...

    1. There are Rare, Hard-to-come-by models that are not produced in plastic.
    2. The good quality one's they do make, are as you said, expensive as hell.
    3. I like to scratchbuild.
    4. With the resin coating, they last practicaly forever sealed in it.
    5. With the coating they are almost as hard as plastic (not so delicate, that they would be damaged from normal handling.)

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