Marek Brewster Buffalo build

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Larry Marshall, Oct 4, 2006.

  1. I have two sets of watercolour pencils, one of them being a Derwent set. This was one of my first stops on the edging path as I'd read here that they worked great. I admit that I took the 'in a hurry' approach as it's only been more recently that I've read about using a palette and brush application.

    I stopped doing it because of the water involved as I blamed it for the softening of the edges and because of a lack of colors (my sets are small sets). Do you spray your kit sheets with Krylon before you build?

    I've also tried a cheaper set of watercolor pencils and, frankly, they worked better than my Derwent pencils, at least with the 'hurry up' approach. I think it was simply because they are softer.

    Cheers --- Larry
  2. As I rail around, chasing answers to the basics and trying to get past my four cardmodeling thumbs, I seem awash in materials as my shop is pretty well-equipped. So far, I've found the watercolor pencil approach has given me pretty good results. I used it when I build my rendition of Rob's FJ-1.

    I've got a 'don't show the screw ups' filter for my camera. As for the moniker of beginner, I'm brand new to this medium and to building models where the parts already have their surface finish. But, I've been pushing/pulling knife blades and other implements of mass destruction over building materials for many years. I'm just used to working with maple, cherry and walnut, or balsa, plastics and brass.

    Is this something special, DeWayne?

    Cheers --- Larry
  3. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Edge Coloring Applicator

    I've found that colored pencils work great but do need a lick of moisture to lay down the color well or to mix in a shade which does soften the paper edge if not properly prepared. I've moved to an altenative method using eye shadow sponge applicators pictured below;


    They come in a container of around 24 and are sold in beauty supply shops. I use them in a near dry brush condition which allows mixing of a color on a palette to obtain the right color. The sponge allows much better control of the application of the paint to the edge. Think of it as a kind of do it yourself felt pen only with water colors. For small "v" areas the sponge is layed on the back of the card at an angle and gently worked to allow the sponge to bulge throught the "v" and color the edge. They can be rinsed out and reused several times. They're also great at applying weathering chalks.

  4. Those are handy buggers. I have them in several shapes and sizes.
    This all makes sense to me...more experiments. When am I going to have time to actually build something :)

    BTW, I did some Krylon experiments yesterday. Clearly it's the thing I've been missing. Far less wicking when edging with pretty much any method. I can still achieve wicking with felt pens but I've got to work at it. One question I have, though, is whether you find it useful to spray both sides of the pages or do you just spray the front side?

    One experiment I did that might help some. Long time ago I bought a can of "low odour" Krylon clear coat. The stuff was horrible for what I was working on so it's sat on the shelf for a while. I tried it on paper and it was far worse :) Not only did it warp the paper, it fuzzed it up a bit.

    Normal Krylon 1301 (or 1311) doesn't do any of this, of course. I think the only difference between 1301 and 1311 is the label as I find 1301 in the BigBox home supply stores whereas 1311 comes from art stores and there are paint brushes and pencils on the label :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    There's also a 1313, it is clear matte finish. Have not tried to build with it yet, tried it on a sample page and didn't really like the way it felt - it sort of made the surface feel rough.

  6. Interesting...I haven't seen that one. Wonder if there's a difference.
    I don't notice rough surfaces but it is the case that when spraying either lacquers or enamels, if you spray from too far away, you get partial drying on the way and it will generate an uneven finish. But not having used 1313 I can't really speak to the cause of your problem.

    Cheers --- Larry
  7. I will try it but I don't think it's necessary. It sure helps to have it on one side, though :)

    It's all about experimenting right now.

    When I try to learn something new I do so with very mixed approaches. Sometimes I take the tactic you're worries. At other times I say, "how am I going to learn to do it right if I don't do it over occasionally. Thus...I built 4 of the one segment on that Buffalo. Still didn't get it right but I got it better :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    On Sealing Spray and What Makes Matte Matte


    If you spray only one side with Krylon the paper will, over time, curl in that direction. The spray coating shrinks noticeably as it cures. A heavy coating left to dry completely will exhibit surface crazing or crackle when folded. This is one reason to use only two misting coats. Coating both sides will only serve to humidity proof the model. Matte sealer is produced by adding a microscopic grit to the mix. I've found that Krylon will cloud inkjet printing for some reason. This condition can be fixed by applying a second coat of Crystal Clear. Or, to avoid any of the above issues, just use thinned nitrate dope. It has no effect on the graphics nor does it curl the paper. It also penetrates deeply into the paper. And if the wife complains just tell her that it's nail polish which adjusts the psychological profile of the toxicity of the subject substance radically for some reason...,

    One last point is to run hot water over the spray can to warm the contents before spraying. This lowers the viscosity of the mixture allowing a better atomization of the spray.

  9. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    But Not TOO Hot....

    because the spray can can/will explode!!!

  10. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    ahhhh - now its a REAL mans hobby ;) heh heh
  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Well that would explain the rough touch aspect!

    You mean the matte does this, right? And the the glossy stuff fixes it?

  12. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Yes, the matte spray clouds the crystal clear will make it clear again.

  13. This thread is titled Brewster Buffalo build but maybe it should be relabelled to "Larry tries all the ideas from the smart guys."

    I did some spraying and testing today. Previously I'd tried Krylon and I might have seen some of the fogging that Gil mentioned but mostly I saw the curling of the paper that I didn't much like. So..... First up,

    nitrate dope (wife wasn't home anyways): Works like a charm...stinks to high heaven...hard to get and impossible to ship economically. Might have added a slight amount of gloss to the paper but it wasn't unpleasant.

    Testors Dullcote: Maybe a bit of fogging with this stuff and it dulls things down a bit too much for my tastes. It doesn't curl the paper, however.

    Future floor finish: This stuff is wonderful for so many things that I thought I'd give it a try. It produces a beautiful satin finish on cardstock and seems to make the colors 'pop' very nicely. There are two downsides. The first is that it causes a lot of curling of the paper. It also takes a long time to dry.

    Deft "wood finish" (it's a lacquer): I love this stuff on wood and it's a favorite of many woodworkers. I believe it will become my spray of choice for card models. The stuff just sprays sooooooo well and dries very quickly. There was no fogging whatever and the paper remained perfectly flat.

    In each of these cases I sprayed two very light coats and I was spraying 110lb cardstock with HP ink on it. For those without airbrushes, Deft can be purchased in rattle cans as well as for airbrushes. Any of the woodworking stores have it.

    I tested all of these with watercolour pencils and felt pens and all of these coatings seemed to work fine in limiting the wicking that I was getting when color edging untreated card. This was certainly not a scientific study but it does give some indication of the possiblities. Clearly, though, the use of a clear coat is highly desirable and, Gil, you made my week by bringing it up.

    Cheers --- Larry

    Cheers --- Larry
  14. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    I'm glad you took the time to for the experiments. It's these types of embedded mini-tutorials which help the newcomers to understand the art and the choices available to them. Good job!

    Deft Lacquer is my second choice to instrument lacquer (actually nitrate dope and is still the choice of fine instrument makers). Sig still offers it in pints and quarts and it should be in stock at your local hobby shop or they can order it. This tip originally came from European card modelers who use it often to stiffen the card prior to forming.

  15. Deft, like many clear coats comes in matte, satin and gloss. I've only used matte and only through an airbrush and it's very matte. The only stuff I've ever seen that is more matte is Testors Dullcote which, to my eye, is too matte and tends to look a bit foggy.

    One thing that's interesting about Deft is its smell. It's quite a pleasant smell, unlike any lacquer I've ever used. The smell goes away very quickly too which I like.

    As for using rattle cans, I suppose they have their purpose. I really dislike not being able to thin and control the paint. The overspray you get from rattle cans make them very unfriendly if you live in snow country like I do and have to do your spraying in a closed up house. For my general clear-coating, I have an old Badger 350 (el-cheapo airbrush) set up and it's no big deal to turn it on and spray. With Deft I've even got one of the large Badger bottles full of the stuff, thinned 50:50 and so there isn't even any pouring/mixing to be done.

    Oh...while we're talking about this stuff, I mentioned spraying Future Floor Finish. If you do this, spray a significant amount of solvent (I use acetone) through the brush when you're done. Future is a hard, clear acrylic and when it dries, it's hard to remove from an airbrush so it's best not to leave any in there :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  16. Oh...THAT kind of instruments :) When you mentioned instrument lacquer I was thinking 'instrument panel' lacquer. Guess only my airplane neuron was firing.

    Yes, Sig offers it. Getting it from your local hobby shop is very site dependent. I live in a city of 700,000 people who don't appear to do hobbies. Thus, our "hobby shop" is a toy store that sells some plastic models and diecast stuff. Getting dope means haz-mat fees...big ones. That's why I have the stuff in gallon quantities but when it's's gone forever.

    Cheers --- Larry
  17. shrike

    shrike Guest

    That's OK. I live in a Metro area of over 3Mil, and the only non-RC, non gaming store I know of withing 50 miles is giving up the ghost too. Video game stores? Now those are a growth industry <sigh>

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