Marek Brewster Buffalo build

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Larry Marshall, Oct 4, 2006.

  1. Here I go again...acting silly. I'm a newbie. I make lots of mistakes. My cardmodeling skills are limited and sloppy. Still, it seems a worthwhile venture to document the trials and tribulations of a newbie as he tries to gain control over the medium.

    This time around I'm building a Marek Brewster Buffalo. Apologies in advance to the designer. This is a nice model and ideal for the beginner, I think. It doesn't have any interior which simplifies the build some and the art is very pleasing. It is likely that I'll build a second one with interior and clear canopy at some point as I'm a big fan of fat airplanes with round engines.

    In this case, I took Marek's 1:50 design and enlarged it to 1:32. I felt the larger size would give my four thumbs more room to work and the errors would be easier to spot, though these seem all too easy to see in my builds.

    I started with the fuselage, whose construction uses double-former butt joints. I REALLY like having some internal structure in a card model. It makes me feel as though I'm in firmer ground. It does have challenges, however. Formers must be sized properly and the definition of 'properly' requires some thought.

    Here's a photo I sent to Carl with "help" in the subject heading. I'd gotten the impression from his builds that he was making pairs of formers identical and that's what I was trying to do. Doesn't work because of the expanding/contracting nature of the fuselage.

    Cheers --- Larry

    Attached Files:

  2. So, once I discussed it with Carl, I went back and started over, creating a former that would 'match' its mate but also produce the expanding nature of the rear fuselage as it comes forward. I did this by a whole bunch of sand and fit work until the former would allow for a smooth surface transition...or sort of a smooth surface transition.

    Attached Files:

  3. There was a fly in the ointment, however. Twist, I think you'd call it. I had a heck of a time getting the third (from rear) segment built straight. While Marek provides nice indicator lines on the formers, the fact that it wasn't a complete loop of 'surface' to work with. Really don't know but I made FOUR of those segments before I got one that was even close to being straight and, if you look at the wing outline you'll see that I've still failed somewhat. Still, it's moving along...starting to look like an airplane with bad joints.

    One problem I'm having is with edge-coloring and keeping the edges crisp. I'm using felt pens to color and these, and my multiple 'try it' endeavours end up abusing the segment edges such that things get a bit ragged by the time I actually get things glued together. Have to work on that some.

    Attached Files:

  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    looking good! already showing me up..... course the instructor wouldnt be happy if I started cutting in class!
  5. Might be a problem in class :) Not about "showing up", just about "showing" (grin).

    Cheers --- Larry
  6. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

    Looking great Larry.
    I experiment with edge colors myself but I will experiment on a piece of scrap from the paper you are cutting the parts out of, then hold the scrap next to the part you are trying to match.
    A lot of times I will go ahead and put a few shades on one scrap edge and then check to see what looks best.
    I have found, more often than not, that a color will not really be a match but a compliment and looks even better than the matching one.
    this really depends on the modeling subject though.

    Keep up the beautiful work Larry!

  7. 46rob

    46rob Member

    Larry--try chalk instead of felt pen to edge color. The paper wicks the ink into the fibers and usually makes it too dark. Get some neutral artist's chalk at Michaels, or any art supply. don't waste time with kid's blackboard stuff.
  8. I wouldn't say that your method didn't work. Rather, I think I mis-interpreted what you had said and/or the Buffalo fuselage at its rear-most segment joint, is expanding rapidly in all directions (more than a typical aircraft) and because of this, I had to make one former slightly larger than the one just rearward of it. Once I got more towards the front, where changes weren't so radical, the two formers end up being the same size.

    You're right about the "nice" part. Right now I'm trying to gain control of the basics. It's just frustrating as I'm not used to having sloppy joinery in my work. Part of the learning process and inevitable. Heck, if it were easy it wouldn't be any fun.

    Cheers --- Larry
  9. Bingo...that's the problem. I get a color match and then, as you say, it comes out too dark in some places. I've got a whole drawer full of artists chalks that I use for weathering and such so I'll give them a try.

    Cheers --- Larry
  10. Alcides

    Alcides Member

    Larry your isnt' acting silly. I'm a newbie too. I think this are very interesting threads.

    The firsts times when I've read this forum I feel a bit overhelmed because all the building threads seems to be from people with experience in cardmodeling. The kits were advanced kits not the simple ones.

    I think this "newbie threads" are very necessary for the people who is just starting in this hobby.

    Is this the downloable kit from DWayne?

    and the model is looking great

  11. Glad you agree. I love the builds by these experts and I learn a lot from them. But I do think that if the experts see the stuff that we're struggling with, they provide we newcomers with LOTS more information that they didn't really think about when presenting their own builds as these basic things are so "obvious" to them :)

    Maybe it helps let us know that we're not alone :)

    Yes, though I enlarged it to the size of the large kits DeWayne sells. It's one of Marek's designs. I highly recommend them as much as a newbie can recommend anything. At this point I have 10 different Marek designs, some in 1:50 and some in 1:33 and they're all very nice. Not as detailed as a Halinski kit but beautifully done. Besides, buying from DeWayne is just fun :)
    I won't admit to how many kits I've bought from DeWayne as I haven't been a cardmodeler long enough to talk about such large numbers :)

    Cheers --- Larry

  12. I've followed your lead on this, Carl, and it makes perfect sense. I'm using Pantone 3-tip pens. It may be that they just produce too much ink or something but, as Rob suggests, when I run them along the edge, the speed with which I move the pen determines a lot about color...more than I would think.

    Maybe more importantly, though, is that my pens are dumping so much ink that they seem to soften the edge so when I start holding the next segment's former and surface edge up against another, it's obvious that the paper is softer than it once was. I can harness the color problem but it's this softening thing that bothers me. Obviously you are doing it just fine with pens and others are using watercolors. Why you're not ending up with soft edges is a mystery to me...or rather why I am getting them is the mystery :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  13. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Sealing the Paper


    Its a good idea to seal the paper surface prior to building. Its most important contribution is to allow glue to be wiped off the surface without marring the print detail. I've been using Krylon brand spray and found their Crystal Clear to work well. A couple of misting coats is all that's required. The models surface can be glossed up or matted down when finished by misting with a clear gloss or matte spray respectively. Another less used but one that I prefer is the use of nitrate dope or instrument lacquer to seal the paper. It fixes the water soluble inkjet printing but has now effect on the appearence of the paper. A plus on its use is the strengthening of the paper keeping it from becoming soft (especially at the edges). Paper so treated is also an order of magnitude easier to sand. This should help out in a couple of your trouble areas.

    Keep up the nice "newbie" build. It's a great invitation to others to try their hand at a build.

    Best regards, -Gil
  14. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Graphite Pencils


    A useful note is that coloring the edge is not so important as is toning it down. One of the modelers on this site suggested this a while back and I've found that it works quite well. A set of all graphite pencils in various hardnesses provides a great way to contol edge "brightness". This is a variation of using artists chalk which also works quite well. The application of instrument lacquer on the treated edge will affixe the chalk or graphite to the paper permanently.

  15. shrike

    shrike Guest

    I tend to use cheap markers (a 100 marker set will get you close enough to just about everything) and really like the grey that comes with the Crayola set as a universal edge colour.
    I just carve the hard felt tip into a chisel shape and it reaches right into the corners with no problems. Doesn't affect using it for anything else either
  16. Shazaam!!! I've sprayed Krylon on the few finished card models I've done but not beforehand. I'm a 'matte' kind of guy so I've got several cans of Krylon matte clear. For that matter I've got nearly a gallon of nitrate dope but if I open it my wife makes noises I don't like. I spray most of my miniature wood models with Deft lacquer. Maybe that's similar to 'instrument lacquer.' Experiment time... Thanks.

    Now you're speaking my language. Most of my modeling is done with maple and cherry so sandpaper is my friend. I like the notion that pre-spraying might help me solve my soft edges problem.

    And for you experts to stop by and teach us this stuff. Thanks.

    Cheers --- Larry
  17. Possibly this was Carl as he suggested that I use various shades of gray for edging. Seems to work well except for the soft edges and too much wicking of color which is more technique than a color problem.

    Sometimes I amaze myself by how the obvioius escapes me. My wife and daughter must have half a dozen pencil sets. I shall give them a try.

    Cheers --- Larry
  18. I might have to give some other pens a try. The problem I've always had with felt-pens is the varied amounts of ink they dispense depending on their age but they sure are convenient.

    Cheers --- Larry
  19. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    Hi, to add my 2 farthings to the thread, I use derwent watercolour pencils. If you're in a hurry, you can give the tip a bit of a lick and run it along the edges, usually I just use an old piece of tile as a palette dip my very small brush in water then rub it around the point and make a little puddle of color close to but usually less dark then the color. The paint may dry but a dab in the water brings it back. The fine tip of the brush gets into alot of tight spaces. I also tried pastels but if you're not careful the dust from the chalk can mess up the finish, and the oil pastels can grease things up to. Felt tips have worked as everyone says but on certain card stock, particulary from differant printed kits react unpredictably. I gave them up. I haven't tried any other water coloured pencils, the derwents can be bought singly at Michael's craft stores, but as a set they are a little pricey. Good luck, great build so far, the Buffalo is on a very long list of to-do.
  20. DeWayne

    DeWayne Member

    For edge coloring I use a cheap set of watercolor pencils I picked up on sale at Office Depot. They're Prang and come in several different sized sets. For most camo paint jobs I use just a shade of grey to tone down the edges and the eye does the rest. If you can't find them locally, do an eBay search. I found them there as well.

    Larry, this build looks great. If you're a beginner, it certainly doesn't show here.

    Ted, the card stock I got from you is working wonders. Can't thank you enough.


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