Maple Valley Logging & Millwork

Discussion in 'Logging, Mining and Industrial Railroads' started by Sawdust, Feb 7, 2009.

  1. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I just noticed that you can tell that is a vintage log truck, as it has no head ache rack,

    Bill Nelson
  2. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Well put and good inspiration for all of us!!!!

    Dr Tom:mrgreen:
  3. Maico Shark

    Maico Shark Guest

    Projects such as yours add prestige to our site. It is a pleasure to spotlight it.
  4. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

    Feet...??? :mrgreen:
  5. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Can you explain your last post Steamhead ?
  6. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

    I was responding to Bills' post....

    "Thanks for sharing, and helping to light up a fire under my **** ***."
    ...thinking it would appear immediately after his post...:confused:
  7. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Not feet, further up the first word being dead

  8. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

  9. Jim,
    The log truck looks really good and I like what you did to make the tire look as if it's been in the mud all day. What did you use to make the muddy look?
  10. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Thanks Dave. I give the tires a gray wash then dry brush with some brown & burnt umber, all acrylics. If it dosen't look good I just wash it off & do it until it looks right.
  11. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    any progress? ?

    Is there any progress of them neat buildings?

    What is next?
  12. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Hey Bill Thanks for your interest. I have been working a lot lately & my son had surgery on his knee recently. This year has brought a lot of small jobs instead of what I am use to being much longer jobs. I have been working on a 2 story office/apartment building for the mill in styrene. It's been kind of nice glueing plastic for a while instead of wood. I did layout some 2" & 1/2" foam to start placing some of the buildings. I am going to start with the main building with the pond area to get the elevations just right. Have you or the Doc ever seen a small turn around in a Saw Mill yard ? I thought that might be nice if my space allows. When I placed the buildings & sketched out the pond I thought what have I got myself into, this thing is huge! I will post some pics when I get farther along on the Office building.
  13. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I have seen somewhere, a photo of a sawmill that was set up at one corner of a wye. so that trains could be turned. I actually set up the sawmill I had on my railroad when I was a teenager that way. it started out as a four by eight area, by the time I got it was a four by sixteen area.

    The idea was good, and it looked good, but some of the switches came off the back side of the wye. none of my switches were remote control, and some common basic switching required you to be on both sides of a peninsula so if you didn't have a two man crew it was a ****** to switch.

    Ballon tracks (a return loop) required a huge amount of realestate , but could be very worthwhile if there was enough flat ground , an were used occasionally , as it would greatly speed up turning a whole train.

    How much realestate do you have? Dr Tom and I would be happy to help with reviwing track plan options. We having made many of the possible errors, can spot a lot of them. Of my whole railroad, Crooked Creek, my sawmill town is the one area I am fully satisfied with. At times I entertain the fantasy of tearing out everything but Crooked Creek, and trying to build a railroad that is more operable. What has stopped me so far is the narrow skinny room with knee walls that forced me to make all those bad compromises in the first place.

    My advise is to build something that will work, If you need a return loop for operational purpouses, build it, and don't worry if there was a prototype.
    dont't cut corners, use the largest radius curves you can 20 or 21 inch radius curves will look way more better, and operate much more troblefree than eighteen inch radius curves. If you can don't use #4 switches use #6s. they will use up a lot more space, but the increased relaibility of operations will be well worth it. It took me close to fourty years to figure this out, but for years I was trying to fit as much operation in as possible, ultimately building something that was less than operable. I't is a lot more fun if the trains stay on the track, and if there is less to do, it is more fun to do it when everything works.

    steep grades by them selves are trouble, if coupled with 18 inch radius curves, forgetaboutit! Sure you can actually run trains on my mountain division, with 18 inch radius curves and 8.5% grades, but the time I have spent tweeking locomotives, track and cars to make this happen has ate my life. Twenty inch curves, and three point three percent grades, like the grade through Tom's Bend @ the approach to Harlow give little trouble. One thing I have found out with my current RR is a big sawmill town has lots of room for switching. Crooked Creek, with enough staging, could be a satisfying model railroad by itself.

    Bill Nelson
  14. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member


    what kind of railroad equipment are you planning to use

    Bill Nelson
  15. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Yes sir as The TRNL, Bill, said our crew is ready to help in the design of the track.
    Doc Tom:cool:

    Attached Files:

  16. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Hey Doc Tom & Bill thanks for the ideas. Even though I like the wye idea this thing is getting huge. I'm thinking about a hand operated turn table just to get the engine out of the yard after the drop offs & back in front of the emptys. I've got a Coal Mine project going on as well & I have been going back & forth.I'll keep posting the progress as it developes.
  17. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Looking forward to more of this interesting project. Post some pics if you can.
    Doc Tom:thumb:
  18. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Saw Mill office building

    Well it's been awhile but here is some of my latest progress on the Mill project.
    Here you can see I'm building this from plastic, it's good to change from wood every now or then. I am cutting my panels from clapboard sheet styrene on my home made sheet cutter. This cutter is not finished yet, I want to add a scale rule for measuring, stain it & poly coat it.

    Here you can see the 4 walls, nothing fancy just 4 walls with some door & window openings.

    I cut my window frames from angle styrene. Once these are in place it serves as the window jamb & trim that you will see on the exterior.

    I get a lot of gift cards so I am using these for the window sills. The stuff glues up just like styrene. I use Mek for glueing styrene, it's a whole lot cheaper than solvents. Use caution as with any glueing solvents, not too eye friendly:eek:

    As you can see on the left I just clip the corner out so this will fit into the window openings.

    I will be building the foundation & porch & maybe painting the walls for the next phase so keep an eye out & as always any comments or questions are welcomed.
  19. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Nice setup

    That is a nice setup for cutting styrene. I put the office for my saw mill upstairs above the company store, I'm planning on making a very similar building for the sawmill at the club.

    Can't wait to see this shape up, with a Heisler on the way, do you have a track plan yet?

    Bill Nelson
  20. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Working with styrene


    I like the ideas of using the angle pieces for the door frame. I also did not know that old gift cards could be used in model making. A neat trick!!!

    Yeah, please be careful with that MEK.....fumes can be toxic!!!!

    Doc Tom:p

    Attached Files:

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