Mallet "back logged"

Discussion in 'Photos & Videos' started by sumpter250, Jan 30, 2003.

  1. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    Finally, 2821 heads west on the shipyard's dual gauge line, just east of the point where the narrow gauge branches off to the south. The standard gauge line will go a little further west, and then swing north to the interchange with the Shinnecock Hills Lumber Co.'s main line.

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  2. marty w.

    marty w. Member

    Those are some nice pictures on your conversion.
    I what to install a decoder in a brass berk and I have some questions.
    Why did you replace the motor with a can type motor? Reduced voltage?
    How did you isolate the motor from the frame?
  3. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    I replaced the old open frame motor with a can motor for a couple of reasons. Can motors have skewed armatures, so "cogging" is greatly reduced. This makes the can motor a quieter running motor.
    Then, a can motor operates with about 150-200 milliamps of current at full voltage, as opposed to the old open frame motor which needs about 500 milliamps (half an amp) to run. That goes up rapidly as the load increases. The decoder I chose, because of its physical size, is rated at 1 amp, 1.5 amps peak. A stalled open frame motor can easily draw 1-1.5 amps and could burn out the decoder.
    Most can motors today have the brushes isolated from the frame of the motor, and can be installed without much concern. In the close up photo, you can see a lot of white around the motor. This is a styrene plate I had to mount in the tender floor because I had removed so much floor to put the original motor there. The can motor is adhered to the styrene with silicone adhesive, and is further isolated from the frame.
    As in most brass locos, the tender is the left rail pickup, and the loco is the right rail pickup. Left rail is routed to the motor, in the boiler, through the drawbar, which is insulated from the loco frame. I replaced the drawbar as the conductor, with two wires, simulating the water hoses from the tender. these plug in to connectors epoxied to the tender frame. (the green things sticking up on the front of the tender frame).
  4. marty w.

    marty w. Member

    Thanks for the info.

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