Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Mindaugas, Mar 25, 2005.
Secondly, I mixed some paint to get the seat colour
And then I painted the edges
Then I've put some glue on the edges to get them rounder. This technique I've taken from the dear Swinger, who used it in his Ju-88 seats. Thanks Swinger
Later I've painted these edges with dried glue. In next post you will see the result...
Then I've assembled the head racks and painted them in flat red.
Also I've added belts and other minor parts. This is the result:
To be continued...
I would like to ask about the paint.
What's the main difference between the enamel and acrylic paint? Which is better to use? What are good and bad things about these paints?
I use only enamel, because they don't have any bad smell, and our local hobby shop has only enamel paint from Italeri
Thank you all for the answers
That seat looks amazing. That minor attention to details really makes all the difference. If only the seats look like that, then I can't wait to see what you do to the rest of the plane. By the way, I could not tell you the difference between acrylic and enamel paint. I personally use both. My mom has a large collection of old acrylic paint that she used to use to paint ceramic decorations, and I have a large collection of enamel paints that I used to use for plastic models, so I just grab both baskets and start searching for the right color. If I had to say anything about the difference between them I would have to say that acrylic seems to be slightly more flaky and crumbly when it's dry, but the difference may just be my imagination. Again, those seats look great.
She's looking great!! Superb detail work, my friend.
The main difference between acrylic and enamel is acrylic is water based paint whereas enamel is petroleum based. You can clean your brushes with water when using the acrylic paint, but you need a petroleum thinner for the enamel. You might also experience minor differences in application, depending on the quality of the paint, between the two. I found enamel works best on plastics and great on paper/cardstock. Most acrylics are fine for plastics, but I find the bonding is not as great as with the enamel, and if you paint acrylic over enamel it does tend to have a bonding problem because your putting a water base product on an oil base product. Naturally, acrylic is great with paper but you have to watch how much paint you apply on each coat because being water based it soaks into the paper and can make it soft until it thoroughly dries...sort of the same situation as if you used too much PVA glue on a piece, it remains soft for while until the glue finally sets, so just be mindful of how much you apply, especially on smaller pieces. Applying it with a spray gun is fine if you use light coats, but that's the recommended way to apply any spray paint from what I've seen and experienced.
I traditionally used enamels or petroleum based paints, but my favorite for now is acrylic because it doesn't have the odor that enamel does, it is a lot more user friend and safer than the petroleum based paints from that point of view. If you use enamels, just be mindful of the fumes, particularly from the thinner products, they can be harmful if you are not working in a well ventilated space...after all it's petroleum based, and that is a toxic substance for us humans.
Hope some of this is helpful.
Looking forward to the next update!
Thank both Jim and Dustin very much for the answer. I really appreciate your praise
Also thank you very much for the detailed and clear tips about paint.
Nice work on the ejection seats. They look very much like the ones in 971 at the Evergreen Air Museum. Looking forward to the finished model.
So lets continue. I have gained especially useful experience about paper model techniques during a recent paper models contest, where I won the prize . That contest took place in our capital - Vilnius.
So for now - side panels. I have made them to shine
First of all I cut out the panels and the holes on it:
Then I made the plastic to glue to these holes:
Then we attatched that plastic:
And form outside :roll:
So that's all about side panels
And now, we attach those diodes for side panels:
Then I have glued a small card strip in order not to see the lights trough the joints between the side wall and side panel. Also I made the same procedure with the joint between the floor and side panels:
And now I have attached side panels and the radar light between the RSO legs:
And now with the RSO instrumental panel. I have used the same technique as with the side panels. Later I have attached three diodes and closed that insrumental panel. Wires were attached from the sides.
And now, I begin the skinning. I will come back to cocpit later, when skinning around cocpit will be finished.
First of all, I will work with the nose of the plane. So I have polished edges a bit and then I have painted them in flat black. Also you can see, that I have attached some more former parts to the belly. I have also made some additional formers, to strenghen the construction.
And now, I have prepared several skin parts. I have used a technique, that I found out from one great Lithuanian modeler Donatas Skiauteris from city of Panevezys. He was a participant of paper models contest and a member of our lithuanian paper modeling forum: www.modelizmas.com
So I have glued the skin parts to the watman, in order to make my model more tight and more resistant to external damage (i.e. finger pushing and other factors)
Note that the skin part and watman part must be formed before glued, because if you try to form them after glueing, parts will start to break.
Also before glueing, both parts must be covered with glue, because they will be able to slide a bit, and you will have some time to correct their positions. If you cover with glue only one part, they will connect immediately, and you won't be able to correct them anymore. The parts will be ruined.
Also formers must be lessen by polishing, because skin is thicker, while using this technique.
So when the glue dries, parts become extremely hard and tight and model becomes almost invincible :roll: 8) :lol:
To be continued...
What is "Watman"?
My dictionary says: design paper or whatman It is a paper most of paper models are printed on - about 160 g/m2 (160g per quadratic meter)
Sorry for incorrect word..
Great thread, thanks for your effort!
So it is a dual layer forming technique...., similar to plywood...,
I've experimented with this technique and found the resulting structure impressively strong and robust all by itself.
This a great build and a great thread. I can't wait to see that blackbird all skinned and lit up. I may have to try your method of doubling the paper in a big model like the B-17. It seems like a very good idea.
I think, that you already forgot, that I was making SR-71 It was just slow work with wires... It would be silly for me to put posts ant to say: "Oh, today I have soldered two wires", next day: "Oh, and today I have soldered another wire with resistor"....
So now I have finished all these works, and I can show it to you. Offcourse, there is nothing interesting to see except the bunch of wires
So the main topic of this post is the soldering of the wires.
Here you can see my SR-71 laying on the table..
This is the left side:
And this is the right one. You can clearly see the resistors.
And here you can see a pilot's instrumental panel, with transparent instruments. And under it you can see a card cover, to prevent the light from shining near the pilots legs
Here are the central "+" and "-" nodes. From there I will lay two wires, that will be connected with the main plug.
And the full view of the frontal part of my SR-71
And now a bit about RSO radar. I have assembled it from given parts and insertet the transparent sheet in order to allow the green light to shine through. Then I have painted it with the black and grey paint mix.
So thats all for today's update. Later you will see the detailing of the cockpit and after it a long and tiring skinning process awaits. There will be a long break here, because it won't be interesting for all of you to watch how I attach one or another section of the fuselage...
So thats all. Good luck for all of you!
Hello once again
It is a very good idea to thicken the paper for big model, like B-17. I saw one guy, that thicken the paper of his B-29 (it is more bigger that B-17). But, while I am from foreign country, I can't clearly explain the process of thickening paper. So, for you Dustin, I suggest to try this technique on something else, in order not to ruin your beautiful B-17
The main idea is to form the whatman part before gluing it to the main part, because if you don't do this, your part will be TWISTED, when the glue dries. If you don't form your part at the beginning, and you form them when the parts are connected together, you will see that everything is ok, but it is not!!! When the glue dries, you will see the terrible result...
So thats all. Good luck!
Now I begin the detailing. Today I made the instrument panels, but I haven't finished them yet and there are some circumstances, that must be fixed.
First of all, I made a small frame from wire, for each instrument.
So firstly, I made small round parts by using a tool of appropriate diameter:
Then I cut them out and modified them in order to look round and not twisted:
And the I painted them with black enamel paint..
Next post will be about panels...
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