M4a3 Sherman - Gpm

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by exzealot, Mar 30, 2008.

  1. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    The GPM tracks aren't very realistic - but you've managed to do a great job with them. Most WW2 US tanks used a rubber block track (M4 Sherman Tank) which aren't easy to model in card. You might like to look at the Gremir M3 builds over at papermodelers.com for another take on US tank tracks.


  2. Mark_1984

    Mark_1984 Guest

    Great job - It's the tracks that put me off doing a tank. I just wouldn't have the patience to cut out so many identical parts. Yours look very realistic.
  3. Soaring

    Soaring Middle School Student

    Wow, that Sherman you have there looks excellent! The Tracks especially, I can't wait to see the rest of this Sherman :)
  4. lriera

    lriera Member

    I agree, the tracks are the WORST part of any tank (or tracked vehicle). But you have done an outstanding work.

    I hope to see more soon. Thank you.
  5. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    I could not agree with the two of you more... They are a true test of ones patients. Very well done :thumb:
  6. Patty

    Patty King of Swaziland

    WOW!!! This is looking NICE. I hope the rest of build is as fast and easy as this part.
  7. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    So far I have seen countless armor threads die at the track stage.

    Good to see that you have pressed on.

    As to the off color edging... You think 'brown' or 'tank' ink to those green areas would turn them down?
  8. exzealot

    exzealot Member

    To all,

    Thanks for the encouragement! I finished some of the front ornaments and their metal guards. These are the time-consuming details, but also the most fun.

    Note that I tried to tone-down the edges a bit by using OD green paint. Still not exact, but a lot better. I have a plastic model of an American WWII tank, and the instructions call for Olive Drab. This model is something a little different - can't quite figure it out.


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  9. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Nice build.:thumb::thumb::thumb:

    You have a lot of patience.

    As for the colors, I like them. On my monitor this lot shows as brown with a green highlight to edges. That's the sort of thing a museum of engineering might do, to emphasise the working components. Red is more common, especially on cutaways, but for me, those colors suit the model.

  10. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    It's funny because I am building Nobi's Cromwell and it's roughly the same color base as your overall sherman and the edge coloring is the exact same.

    The turret is going to be interesting. I want to get this kit.
  11. lriera

    lriera Member

    From my point of view, your build is going very well. The Sherman is looking better and better.
  12. grzechu pl

    grzechu pl New Member

    You've doing great job, i like it so much. Anyway, today i saw one Sherman in Museum of Poland Army its quite nice tank
  13. exzealot

    exzealot Member

    This picture shows the installation of (what appears to be) a towbar on the front face of the tank. The model was designed for wire hinges on the bar, but I built mine the easy way out - I glued it permanently in place.

    Also note the machine gun in the front. Again, the complexity and work required to make the gun moveable is not worth it to me, so I glued it stationary.

    Please forgive me!


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  14. exzealot

    exzealot Member

    Small progress, but this picture shows the top covers for the front crew hatches. The model was designed so that the entire lid can lift up - many parts provided for this feature. However, the instructions were extremely vague in describing the build, so again, I glued everything down in a closed position. My plan is to have the two hatch doors open and close.


    Attached Files:

  15. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I think you mean the travel lock for the gun. The idea is to support and lock the gun barrel so the breech mechanism won't move around when being transported.

    The tow shackle points on the Sherman are low on the hull beside the brake housings (see image)

    I should point out that the Sherman in the image is fitted with a 76mm gun rather than the 75mm of the GPM model. The 76mm gun barrel was longer so the travel lock clamps the barrel further out from the turret than the 75mm so the legs of the lock are a bit longer than the 75mm version.



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  16. Patty

    Patty King of Swaziland

    About the tracks: "these are the times that try mens souls..."- need I qoute from where that came from? The tank is nice, but looks aren't everything...
  17. exzealot

    exzealot Member


    Thanks for the explanation and the pictures. Makes sense! As you can see, I am not an expert in tanks; but thanks to some of you, I am learning as I build.


  18. Soaring

    Soaring Middle School Student

    Hey, Kenlwest, you did an exdcellent job with the hull of the tank. The little details looks so realistic!

    On the note of creating the open features on the lids, I believe you use copperwire through some holes :/
    To get a better look at it, I guess you could go onto Picasa web albums, type in M4A3 Sherman, and there should be some build pictures of the same Sherman you're building. In his album about the Sherman, there's one bit that shows the lids open and close feature up close, I guess it could be used as a reference.
  19. lriera

    lriera Member

    The Sherman is looking very well. For me your building is a lesson of modeling. My guide when I am going to build my own.

    Thank you.
  20. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member


    Tanks are a subject where seams are good. Most of those seams are welds. Here's a tip for recreating welds. I suggest you try it on scrap first. You need some plastic sprue and a low temp soldering iron.

    Yu will need to stretch the sprue to obtain a diameter that is consistent with the seam you wish to replicate.

    Glue the sprue in place and trim to size. Use plastic tube glue for this. It will seep into the paper and bond plastic to paper.

    Use the soldering iron to simulate weld beads by pressing the tip of the iron into the plastic and giving a gentle nudge. Repeating this with a measured sequence along the sprue makes it look amazingly like a weldment.

    If you are unclear about any of this, let me know and I will shoot some photos or an mpeg so you can see the process.

    It really is very simple and worth the effort....especially if you are going to show with the plastics guys. I know; I'm one of them. I am working on my card Hunley to compete against the plastic ships. It takes some effort.

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