Lost in the caulking jungle

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by Biased turkey, Apr 24, 2007.

  1. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    A few months ago I saw an article about using DAP caulking to lay flextrack, but I forgot to bookmark the link.
    I visited the home depot website for Canada, the problem is that it list 4 pages of caulking products: urethane/polyurethane, silicon, latex, elastomeric latex etc...

    Which one should I use ?
  2. baldwinjl

    baldwinjl Member

  3. 91rioja

    91rioja Member

    I can't remember which DAP I am using, but, make sure it is latex, and the cheaper the better. I use two types, white for putting stuff down, and clear for underneath my track.

    Hope this helps.
  4. 91rioja

    91rioja Member

    I went back and found my old thread. Here is what I have been using:

    I went to Lowe's and got the tube of NailPower Foam Board Adhesive to glue the foam to the plyboard. That stuff rocks! Just give it time to dry correctly. It is a solid as a rock now. I also am using the DAP Kwik Seal Tub, Shower, Sink, and Countertop Latex Adhesive Caulk to place my foam roadbed and track.
  5. JR&Son

    JR&Son Member

    Im using Elmers School Glue
    Not thrilled with the Dry Color
    Ill have to touch it up to hide it
    And thats a HUGE BUTT
    I have had to move 6 feet of a 24 foot layout
    No less than 6 times.
    Im not kidding!
    It seems to hold flex well,
    But when I have needed to move the track,
    It will come up without damage!

  6. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    Thanks to all the nice people who took some of theitr time to reply.
    It looks like a latex based caulking is the way to go.

    Chaparral: How can you have a product that is both water soluble AND water washable ?
    Isn't a washable water soluble caulking an oxymoron ?
    No, an oxymoron is not a multi-syllable chemical :)
  7. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

    I use the same stuff Jeff does. Works great.
  8. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Caulking that is water-soluable would not be much good... but latex caulking can be cleaned up with water before it cures.

    I would pick the cheapest water-cleanup, paintable caulk you can get. You only need the very thinnest layer to get things to stick. If it oozes up between the ties, you are using too much! But the paintable property is desirable in case you get it where it is not wanted.

    You could try No More Nails (also comes in a tube for use in a caulking gun) but be sure to get the "projects" type that won't eat foam...! Also, I am not sure if you can pry it up like you can with the caulk (in case of error, etc...).

  9. 91rioja

    91rioja Member

    If you are working with the extruded foam with a film on top of it, then the No More Nails and the stuff that I used should come up without a problem; it will just pull away the film. Don't ask how I know that :)
  10. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    I just purchased a small tube of DAP "Kwick Seal" today for some trial tests.
    I took 1 piece of extruded pink foam ( 91rioja, the foam i purchased doesn't have a film on top of it. As a matter of fact here in Montreal I never saw any extruded foam with a protective film ) and on 1 side I glued the cork roadbed using yellow carpenter glue ). I'll repeat the test on the other side of the foam using the DAP caulking.
  11. Go Big1

    Go Big1 Member

    Biased Turkey,

    I remember reading the thread on using caulk, and looked it up. It was done by LongIslandTom, link is below. When I get around to starting my layout, I would like to use caulk as well to put down the roadbed and track, so let us all know how it goes.

  12. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    Thanks a lot for the link Go Big1, it is very appreciated, and the author did a good work at documenting the process.
    This week I'm trimming the cork roadbed I purchased because it is way too wide ( see my post in the N scale section ). Then next week-end I'll proceed with the test using the caulking.
    Of course I'll post the conclusions of the trial.

    Oh by the way I found the link to the article I mentioned in my thread starting post:
  13. YmeBP

    YmeBP Member

    I bought a couple different types, they had on sale. I was a boob :( and used the white latex to attach the foam board to the wood and then used the brownish liquid nails to attach the track to the board should have done it the other way round. Now ... hahaha the track is glued down man lemme tell you!! I could lift the table just by the track alone hehhahha.

    Q: is the caulk good for foam or cork roadbed to foam, and then the track to the cork too or would i have to revert to glue? If i wanted to ballast using the caulk how would i embed the ballast in the cork or would i have to?
  14. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    I'm doing some trial tests right now for gluing the cork roadbed to the pink extruded styrene.
    On one side of the extruded styrene I used the yellow carpenter glue for fixing the cork roadbed and on the other side I used the DAP white "KwickSeal tub & tile adhesive caulk".
    The caulk has ( imho ) a lot better adherence than the carpenter glue.
    The DAP white Dynaflex 230 Premium Elastomeric sealant looks even better but it is more expensive.

    YmeBP, I agree you should have done it the other way around but I wouldn't worry too much . You could try to separate the styrene from the wood by carefully using a putty knife but is it worth the risk ?

    About using the caulking for gluing the track to the cork roadbed: Just check GoBig1 link about "Affixing ballast & track - fun with latex caulk"
  15. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

    Hello everybody,
    For what is is worth, I was talking to the guys at my local lhs, and they use low temp hot glue. If they need to move or remove a piece of track they warm the glue with a hair dryer. (Sounds like another good way to get the wife mad at you.) Never tried it myself, just passing the idea along.

  16. YmeBP

    YmeBP Member

    I have a little glue gun, fits in the palm of your hand, how can i tell if it's low or high temp? It has 2 temp settings and it's never burned me when it drools out of the nose.

    I'll have to try it out on scrap foam. I'll take pix.

    That would be ideal for me because i always change my mind on how i want things laid out hahha.
  17. YmeBP

    YmeBP Member

    O.k. i didn't try the hot glue yet, but i figured since i have 20 different types of caulk i've picked up cheap i'd try them and take photos.

    So far i've tried the liquid nails and the dap i have photo's of here. The liquid nails doesn't have any flex or give at all, and i mean at all!! None... if you want it to breath or grow etc then use something else :0. It also has a very flat/matt texture so it would be easy to paint. The dap has a glossy shiny appearance after drying.

    The dap has a tiny bit of flex, like maybe .5mm pushing against it pretty hard (i tried to get it to lift off the foam w/ no luck). In some of the photo's you can see where i scraped the liquid nails (brown stuff) off to remove the track to relay it.

    More detailed photos here:
    Marlon and Zavier's 4x8 double loop figure 8 w/ a cherry

    This is the dap dynaflex clear 230:




    I got this can idea from a model railroader pdf thing i downloaded. It worked really well. the track came out flat to the table even though some of my rail wasn't exactly flat to start w/.


    In this photo you can see some parts that are dry and some that aren't when it dries it dries clear.


    Next to residual liquid nails for comparison. This is full dried.


    On foam risers funny thing if you look at the larger images it discolored the foam just a weeee bit. It's a darker shade of white as if it were wet (it's completely dry).

    This clear dap may make a good filler for a shallow body of water.
  18. woodone

    woodone Member

    Boy, those are some very strange looking cars on the track. Short soup can cars?sign1
  19. Biased turkey

    Biased turkey Active Member

    Thanks a lot YmeBP for that very complete and detailed post about liquid nail vs. DAP caulking. You sure did your homework.
    I did some testing with DAP Kwickseal vs. yellow carpenter glue to affix the cork roadbed to the pink extruded styrene. The caulking works a lot better.
    Here is a pic with the DAP caulking.
    Note: The tracks haven't been glued yet, it's just a test to check the roadbed witdh.
    I think i'll use liquid nail project for gluing the cork roadbed to the extruded pink styrene and the DAP Dynaflex caulking for gluing the track to the roadbed.
    With the help of your your post I finally found my way out of the caulking maze :thumb:

  20. YmeBP

    YmeBP Member

    Thank YOU, i actually didn't use the roadbed because i didn't know what to glue it down w/!! I don't havet he patience for yellow or white glue and after reading a couple other posts here about dap/caulking i figured why not hehee.

    If you are interested i can post about the dap white stuff, i plan to use that to attach the track to the white styrafoam risers to see how it goes.

    I think i'm going to use the liquid nails (i'll have to get a pic of the tube) to do my bridge because it's so stable i don't think i want any flex in my bridge pieces.

    Either way thanks again for this thread :) helped me out figuring out the differences in the caulking.

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