logging cars on track grades

Discussion in 'Logging, Mining and Industrial Railroads' started by eric halpin, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. eric halpin

    eric halpin Eric Halpin

    The Algoma and Rideau has an area of about 2ftx5ft that I wish to incorporate a small logging operation with the A&R. I was planning on having the tracks leading into this area and from the mill on grades. How does one keep rolling stock in one position on the track without it rolling down grade? I have seen grass planted at track edge to keep cars in place but are there other ways?

  2. bigsteel

    bigsteel Call me Mr.Tinkertrain

    you could put light weight fishing line in the track that bends when yuor engine pushes or pulls the cars over but is strong enough to hold back the cars by themselves.--josh
  3. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

    A trick I heard was putting cut up Kadee coupler springs on the end of the axle going into the side frame to create a drag.

  4. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Is there no way to make the sidings flat? Then you need the fishing line (should be plentiful in Perth!) or a toothpick that goes into a hole in the roadbed.
    I was operating one layout and I uncoupled the caboose at the edge of the yard and it rolled back down through the helix and into the next town. I put the original draggy trucks back on before the next operating session.
  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    The skeleton cars may be too light to use the fishing line/weedy track technique. You might want to consider having a "flag" (in the form of a pin with an actual flag on it) protect the cut of cars while they are on the slope. I believe a blue flag indicates "do not shift these cars, they are being loaded/unloaded".

    Maybe not ideal, but at least there's a prototypical equivalent...! ;) :D

  6. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    A turnout motor, such as the tortoise,could be modified in a way that allows the wire to rize "up", and block the roll of the car. The wire could then be lowered, to move the train. Toggle switch, DCC turnout controller, or manual control, all would work. Generally, this only is required for switching on a grade, and the probability of manual uncoupling would make the use of the "flag" or inserted pin the "KISS" (Keep It Strictly Simple) method. Inserting a pin would be "setting the brakes" on the cars left behind, while the cut is moved to whatever siding they go to.
    At the club, the sharpened dowels used to manually uncouple, are referred to as "brakemen".
  7. eric halpin

    eric halpin Eric Halpin

    I like the ideas, especially the pin/blue flag. Thanks again fellas.
  8. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Hill Holder

    There is a commercial soloution called a hill holder. On my RR I have 5 homeade versions. I used to be an automotive Technician. I have installed old volkswagon hood release cables in stateigig places on my RR with the cabble up ut just contacts the axle. Spotting the car is trickey, but I can park a cut of cars on a passing siding on an 8.5 grade, making it possible to switch the logg camp @ Terrapin (Logging in east Tn. on the DG CC and W RR)

    Bill Nelson
  9. chooch.42

    chooch.42 Member

    Any "REAL RAILROADER" knows - park a train anywhere - apply hand brakes to make sure it won't run away ! The tooth-pick or similar appliance could not be much more prototypical !...You're operating the way the BIG trains do ! :thumb: Enjoy ! Bob C.
  10. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    hill holder @ Terrapin Tn.

    I have taken some photo's of the lower hill holders @ Terrapin Tn.
    In the first photo you can see a log car held by on the inside track , at the lower side of the Terrapin Tn. passing siding. The Brake is on on the inside track, as well, so you can see the wire sticking up just enough to catch an axle.

    the second photo shows the controls. sheet rock screws limit the up travel, and wires ,run through a hole drilled in the handle, limit the downside travel- so the wire doesn't go below flush with the ballast.

    These devises, made out of Volkswagen Golf hood release cables, hold cars in three locations on this passing siding on an an 8.5% grade, allowing switching to be done for the log camp @ Terrapin, and the Water powered sawmill further upgrade @ Perry's Gizzard layout photos @ Eastern Tn logging on the DG CC & W RR 1928

    Also check Dr Tom's (alias Dr. G) C&S thread Dr Tom & I have been associated for two decades, and it shows.

    Bill Nelson
    Clarksville TN.

    Attached Files:

  11. Hot Cinder

    Hot Cinder New Member

    Nice trick Bill :thumb:

    B&O GLENNWOOD New Member

    I am shocked that no one mentioned using the bristles from a tooth brush instead of the fishing line this method works well But uncoupling has to be done by hand because on a ramp there is no way to get slack between the cars
  13. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I'm amazed at how few folks use the magnetic uncoupling. I have under the tie uncouplers all over my home layout, and have to explain thier proper unse to most visiting operators.

    I haven't even tried to introduce them at the club, I don't want to think about how many magnetic axles there are on that layout.

    with delayed uncoupling, one can uncouple away from the weeds, set the couplers in the delayed mode, push the cars into the restraining weeds, and then leave them there

    Bill Nelson
  14. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    Can I come over and play!!:eek:
  15. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Let me know when you are in Northern Middle Tennessee Many visitors to my RR, when I try to hand them a hand held throttle hooked up to a log train on the 8.5% put their hands in their pockets.

    delayed magnetic coupling is great when everything is set up right I can switch in Crooked creek for twenty minutes at a time without touching a car or a locomotive.

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