Liquid Adhesives

A coworker told me to try some of the clear liquid adhesive that comes in a small bottle at the local hobby shop. He said you just put it on plastic, put the pieces together and its glued. I found different brand names and purchased Ambroid ProWeld but it didn't work for me. The cap uses a small brush like your wife's fingernail polish. I brushed it on both plastic pieces, put them together, and they fell apart. Then I read the directions: capillary action will spread ProWeld throughout the joint. This means to have to put the pieces together first and then apply the liquid adhesive. I did this and it holds together in 10 seconds. Okay, you can teach an old dog a new trick.
 

ezdays

Out AZ way
Yeah, basically, the "adhesive" is not a glue. It melts the plastic and welds the two pieces together. What was happening is that when you applied the ProWeld to each piece, by the time you put the two pieces together, it had evaporated and the plastic was no longer soft enough to weld the joint. I have a small dispenser with a very fine tube on the end that is made specifically for applying this stuff.

One word of advice, be sure you use it in a well ventilated area. I turn on an exhaust fan next to an open window when I use it since I seem to be very sensitive to the fumes.
 
Hmmm, I wonder what kind of solvent it is. I could buy a quart and refill my small bottle. The same coworker told me to refill my Jet De-Solv with Acetone. It works very well to loosen and remove CA glues when I glue my fingers together or to something. Don't you just hate that?
 

zedob

Member
I've never tried it, but it sure smells alot like MEK (methel ethyl ketone). If it is, you can get it by the gallon at HD or Lowes for alot cheaper.
 

ezdays

Out AZ way
zedob said:
I've never tried it, but it sure smells alot like MEK (methel ethyl ketone). If it is, you can get it by the gallon at HD or Lowes for alot cheaper.
I really don't think it's MEK. Yeah, MEK has been known to melt plastic, and they are both solvents, but based on cost and the amount you use, it isn't worth it to try to find out. A small $3 bottle of this stuff goes a long way. Why spend $20 on a can of MEK only to have most if it sit on the shelf.

Just remember, whatever you use, all solvents are potent and evaporate quickly.
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
A good solvent for joining styrene is lacquer thinner, available around here for about $10.00 a gallon. I find it less offensive, odour-wise than either acetone or MEK and it evaporates more slowly. It is, however, just as dangerous, so good ventilation is required. It will work either by coating both surfaces and then bringing them together or by capilliary action. Use an appropriately-sized paint brush to apply it: I decant it into a smaller container, such as an empty Floquil bottle, for ease of handling. It is also an excellent thinner for lacquer-based paints such as Floquil, Scalecoat, and SMP Accupaint.
 

jim currie

Active Member
also lacqure thinner comes in different drying rates i use the medium most of the time but use the fast one in winter when its cooler and takes more time to evaporate. also dissolve junk plastic in it to make filler.
 

babydot94513

Member in training
Now here is something I have never heard of before, but it does make sense.

JD

jim currie said:
also lacqure thinner comes in different drying rates i use the medium most of the time but use the fast one in winter when its cooler and takes more time to evaporate. also dissolve junk plastic in it to make filler.
 

ezdays

Out AZ way
Yeah, I agree with JD, never heard of that. Seeing as how Home Depot and Ace only carry generic "Laquer Thinner", that should come as no big suprise:D. I suppose, like love, we're looking in all the wrong places....:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

jim currie

Active Member
EZ you have to go to a store that sells auto paints to get the different thinners.
most of the thinners at Lows and Home depot are of the medium rate.
 

Chris Beard

New Member
I would like to hear more about making a filler of scrap plastic. What are the portions and does it have a shelf life after it is made.
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
One thing no one has mentioned, maybe because it is so obvious, is that all of the above mentioned glues, solvents, etc. are EXTREMELY FLAMABLE]! I'm fairly sure that most people are aware that they shouldn't be used around an open flame, but in the event of a house fire, even a minor one, a gallon of that stuff setting around is nothing short of a fairly large bomb. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: A good reason not to buy it in bulk.
 

tillsbury

Member
Bear in mind that the good glues aren't pure solvent, either. Tamiya clear (brush) cement (the capillary action one) is 88% solvent and 12% resin, for example. The resin helps to fill gaps in the join. You won't get as good a result with pure solvent.

As has been said, I think this is a saving not worth making, particularly considering how long it tends to last...
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
I think that the way to make filler is to put some lacquer thinner in a small jar and then add small pieces of styrene - the smaller, the better. Shavings or sanding dust would probably work the fastest, but chopped-up sprue or other scraps will also do. You'll probably need to experiment with the proportions to get the consistency you require. As far as shelf life goes, if the container is well sealed, and the mixture fairly watery, it should last for a few weeks. Just remember that the lacquer thinner is volatile, so as long as the container is open, the solvent is evaporating and the filler is becoming thicker and harder. Also, remember that if you are applying it to a styrene model, it will mar any surface that it touches.

Wayne
 

jim currie

Active Member
i use old sprue's just chop up put into a small glass bottle i do add a bit of thinner is it gets to thick most of the time i like it at the consistency of molasses. as for the dangers of flammable liquids its no worse than keeping a gallon of gas for the lawnmower and keeping that in the house isn't advisable either.
 
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