Lift Bridge
- Thread starter Nomad
- Start date
I wired my removable sections with killable sections about a yard (or a meter) long on both sides. I used phone plugs (1/4") at each end to carry the current (backup to the rail joiners) and they have to be disconnected to remove the section.
I wired the dead sections by gapping a different rail at each end (N on one side, S on the other) and having that section fed through the removable bit from the other end. This should protect any train with the loco at the front; can't protect against the person that backs a long train into the gap.
I wired the dead sections by gapping a different rail at each end (N on one side, S on the other) and having that section fed through the removable bit from the other end. This should protect any train with the loco at the front; can't protect against the person that backs a long train into the gap.
cidchase
Active Member
I really like BigJim's solution!! Thanks, Jim!:thumb: Letting the roadbed locate the rail is great, and having no rail edges at the opening will save a lot of snags!! I think this ought to be archived as a GRP (Gauge Recommended Practice) 
I like you basic design, Jim. I think I would make my roadbed from wood and start it about 6 inches back from the end of the bridge extending it to under the ends of the track on the bridge. Then at the end of the table where the bridge comes down, remove the cork so the rails will line up on a level plane. The wood roadbed would then protect the track and rails from any accidental damage.
Sid,
Thanks - Your comments make a newbie proud.
Russ,
I agree and do plan on making some changes. Just wanted to post the first version to show the advantages of locating the pivot away from the edge of the opening.
My thoughts include using wood or plastic and having some "bumps" on either side of the track ties to also align it side-to-side as it comes down. (Cross section - Tie is shown in red)
I also want to experiment with an air strut like to ones on my truck topper window. With the right geometry and a slight over center it could both hold it straight up and put slight pressure down when closed. Mini-van rear door ones might have to much push but the window ones on my topper seem about right. Next time I am near the place where I purchased it I will buy a replacement strut. Won't they be suprised when someone buys a single strut.
Strut is blue. Black line just shows a connection bar/pipe. It needs to be bent to miss the table edge support. If anybody gets around to trying this before I do let me know how it works.
...jim
Thanks - Your comments make a newbie proud.
Russ,
I agree and do plan on making some changes. Just wanted to post the first version to show the advantages of locating the pivot away from the edge of the opening.
My thoughts include using wood or plastic and having some "bumps" on either side of the track ties to also align it side-to-side as it comes down. (Cross section - Tie is shown in red)
I also want to experiment with an air strut like to ones on my truck topper window. With the right geometry and a slight over center it could both hold it straight up and put slight pressure down when closed. Mini-van rear door ones might have to much push but the window ones on my topper seem about right. Next time I am near the place where I purchased it I will buy a replacement strut. Won't they be suprised when someone buys a single strut.
Strut is blue. Black line just shows a connection bar/pipe. It needs to be bent to miss the table edge support. If anybody gets around to trying this before I do let me know how it works.
...jim
