LED pole lights

[Fred_M]

I need more working outside lights on my layout. It's dark in my layout dungeon and I kind of like it that way. Well the factory ones are expensive (3 for $7) and they burn out a lot. And when they burn out we toss them. So I bought some white 3mm LEDs, some Campbell's light shades, and some K&S copper tube. I picked the copper over the brass as I think it's easier to solder. I also needed some wire that would fit in the tube. The old wire from a burn out factory pole light fit fine.

 

[Fred_M]

So then I wallowed out the hole a little in the shade to make it slightly bigger and installed a piece of insulation on the pos. (long) lead of the LED. I bent the neg as shown.

 

[Fred_M]

I then pushed the pos into the hole and soldered the neg to the bottom of the shade. I made sure the insulation was in place and not touching the shade.

 

[Fred_M]

I then cut the neg off and soldered it to the outside of the shade.

 

[Fred_M]

I then slid the wire up the pole and stripped and tinned 1/2 inch of it. I then soldered the neg to the copper pole and the pos to the wire right where the insulation stops. I then trimmed the extra off.

 

[Fred_M]

So I then drilled and soldered a small copper pad 20 foot down the pole. I then painted the pole with gray dollar primer and painted the shade green. Any suggestions or commments before I do another? FRED

 

[csxnscale]

You want comments ?
They look great, I could use a dozen of them.

Paul

 

[b28_82]

i would have to say that would be one of the best ideas ever
is that more for an HO layout though?

 

[Matthyro]

Thanks for the "how to" Dash

 

[Fred_M]

Originally posted by b28_82
i would have to say that would be one of the best ideas ever
is that more for an HO layout though?

Yes, I do HO. I also use what's sold as n scale lights for HO. They are really too big really for n scale with 30" diameter poles and 22" light bulbs so these could be used on a nscale layout, no? Just build them shorter. And it's my pleasure Robin and Paul. FRED

 

[b28_82]

thanks, i think i might still make some for the club layout though.

 

[shaygetz]

Originally posted by dash10
Any suggestions or commments before I do another? FRED

Yeah...are you set up for bulk orders? Cool beans:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

 

[jmarksbery]

Yeah Dash, I could use quite a few of those myself.

 

[Fred_M]

I'm thinking $5 per if I sell any. Anyone interested can pm me for specs and questions. FRED

 

[jon-monon]

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: Fantastic, dash! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

On copper vs. brass - The brass should be equally easy to solder. Copper is a better conductor of heat. My memory sez copper is the greatest conductor of heat (excluding preciouse metals) and is 4 X greater than the 2nd best, aluminium. In most cases, this won't have much effect on soldering, but it can make soldering more difficult when you are solding a large piece with a smaller iron, as it conducts the heat away from the joint. Also, if you are making multiply solder joints on one part, you may have less trouble with brass, as it conducts less heat towards a previously soldered joint. In the end, once it's painted, there's no difference

 

[Fred_M]

Originally posted by jon-monon
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: Fantastic, dash! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

On copper vs. brass - The brass should be equally easy to solder. Copper is a better conductor of heat. My memory sez copper is the greatest conductor of heat (excluding preciouse metals) and is 4 X greater than the 2nd best, aluminium. In most cases, this won't have much effect on soldering, but it can make soldering more difficult when you are solding a large piece with a smaller iron, as it conducts the heat away from the joint. Also, if you are making multiply solder joints on one part, you may have less trouble with brass, as it conducts less heat towards a previously soldered joint. In the end, once it's painted, there's no difference

Actually you will find that K&S brass tubing has an anti-oxidant coating on it that must be removed to get a good solder joint that their copper tubing doesn't have. The copper tubing is also easier to cut with a snap blade knife. You just roll the tube under the blade on a table. FRED

 

[Drew Toner]

Originally posted by jon-monon
On copper vs. brass - The brass should be equally easy to solder. Copper is a better conductor of heat. My memory sez copper is the greatest conductor of heat (excluding preciouse metals) and is 4 X greater than the 2nd best, aluminium. In most cases, this won't have much effect on soldering, but it can make soldering more difficult when you are solding a large piece with a smaller iron, as it conducts the heat away from the joint. Also, if you are making multiply solder joints on one part, you may have less trouble with brass, as it conducts less heat towards a previously soldered joint. In the end, once it's painted, there's no difference

Hmmm, guess thats why brass models are the norm. You would probably have to be 'short a floor' to build copper models
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:


Drew

 

[Fred_M]

Originally posted by Drew Toner


Hmmm, guess thats why brass models are the norm. You would probably have to be 'short a floor' to build copper models
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:


Drew

Brass is used for models like locos and rolling stock because it's harder and stiffer than copper. It was also used historically by the Japannese (and others) to make brass models for export because there was lots of surplus brass from WWII in the form of empty shells cases. I have seen models made from copper and they are quite well done. There is a big enough market for copper that K&S supplies it in their POS display in tubes and sheets along with brass and Al. I don't understand you comment about using copper Drew? FRED

 

[Fred_M]

version 2

Here's the new version that I applied what I learned from the first proto to build. Bring light to your layout. Extend your LPBs working day with lights. It's a proven fact that theives love outside lights, it makes stealing things so much easier. Quote for Jim X, a career felon, "your lights allow me to steal the good stuff so much easier. In the old days only one out of three things I pinched were worth fencing, but with your lights almost every item I now steal can be sold for cash. It also makes stealing of gas so much easier and safer, no more using a lighter to find the gas cap hole. Thank's Dash10 lighting". There you have it! Outdoor lights lower crime because they allow the theif to be more selective in what they steal. FRED

 

[Matthyro]

Good looking scene Fred. The interior lighting of the building looks good too.