Laser printing vs ink jet printing

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by cgutzmer, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. Yellow Thunder

    Yellow Thunder New Member

    But what about the resolution, f.e. this HP Color Laser 2600n is only 600 x 600 dpi, as the jet printers have a much higher resolution ?

    Yellow Thunder
  2. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    You normally don't get as high as the laser prints in inkjets, if you desparately want fine resolution then laser is the only choice.
  3. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    Laser printers are the way to go, especially if you have free access to one at work or some place else. Almost every model that I have built has been printed using a laser printer. The only time that I had a problem with flaking toner was when I first did not seal the sheets with a clear spray sealer. From that point on I've used krylon matte spray and have not had a problem since. If you use a laser printer you must first use a clear spray to seal the sheets.
    Something else to consider....When scoring laser printed sheets I have found that using a regular #11 blade is the best method. Just very, very lightly cut the surface of the sheet. Apply very light pressure with the blade - be very careful not to cut the entire way through the sheet. This method actually cuts the toner and helps to reduce any chance of flaking. The resulting cut edge is easily touched up with acrylic hobby paint (same as edge coloring) This scoring method may take a bit of practice to perfect, but when used along with first sealing the sheets, will produce beautiful clean sharp edges.
  4. The Hermit

    The Hermit Member

    i agree with he above two posters

    i dont care what the inkjet resolution said

    you cannot beat the color laser jet
    i have printed the same mode
    on a injet and a color laser
    with the inkjet supposedly having the higher rez
    the laser beat it hands down
    for example

    the ship name printed on the back of the hull was not able to be read on the inkjet

    it was precise and clearly read on the laser printer

    that one demonstration proved it to me

    i suggest that you try the same test as i did

    you will be very suprised

    the laser is just so much more precise than any inkjet

    thats my 3.50$ worth

    thanks for reading
  5. christian5052

    christian5052 New Member

    I better stick to inkjet printing, I use epson and works pretty well.


    I always give every sheet two coats of wood hardener, a lacquer based MinWax product before I do any cutting. I have not tried it with a laser print yet. It seals and stops frayed
  7. The Hermit

    The Hermit Member

    i only print on laser now...

    i use 2 coast of clear acrylic sealer plaid brand i dont have any issues with toner flaking ever.

    i love my laser printed models and i wont go back

  8. luvecraft

    luvecraft New Member

    About the clear sealer ,do they come in glossy one as well?
    Will the toner run or bleed when we spray too near?
  9. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    I have seen both matte and glossy. I have only used Matte but I dont see why it would make a difference. I used it on both inkjet and laser (solid ink sysytem type) and neither of them bled.
  10. luvecraft

    luvecraft New Member

    Jolly good sir!
    Will be heading to the art shop next to pick up a can.:)
  11. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    One nice thing about spraying the paper.... If you spray over the laserjet (at least the solid ink types) it helps keep the dang ink from flaking off when you fold - this is the main reson I never use laser prints....
  12. SnakeEyesOnAPlane

    SnakeEyesOnAPlane New Member

    I've noticed flaking when I fold paper I've printed on with my colour laser printer. I've also noticed that the paper tends to curl at the edges when I print on it using the laser printer. Granted, that was just regular everyday business paper and not thicker paper for crafting. Still, I think I'll do my papercraft printing with my brother's inkjet from now on.
  13. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    with ya 100% there buddy :)
  14. Arsen NonLupin

    Arsen NonLupin New Member

    I prefer to use laser print (Canon LBP 2900) with black and grey, other colors I left blanc with photoshop. I painted it whith thin gel pan or markers. So, I had no problems with erased lines, because anytime I can re-draw them. No problem of curling edges because of few ink.
    And I had one printing on color ink jet... what a hell it was... everything smoothed while assembling with glue.
  15. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Active Member

    got some pics? :)
  16. Erik J

    Erik J Member

    laser print flaking solution?

    A while back I asked a Canon repairman about the flaking problem, and he had some thoughts on it.

    The larger laser printers, like at Kinkos, get the paper quite hot, so the toner bonds to the paper. When you use card stock it will also bond, but not always- depends on the machine. The machine at work that he was servicing did produce card stock prints that flaked off. I asked if placing those prints in the kitchen oven would re-bond the toner to the card stock. He didn't know but thought that I should try it. What I don't know is what temp would be appropriate, but it sure does look like a technique to try. Anybody know the temp needed in the typical officer copier? That would be nice to know before I bake a sheet or two!

    - Erik
  17. MapleLeaf

    MapleLeaf Member

    Baking paper

    I suspect that the temperature required to "bake" the toner to the paper would end up scorching the paper. The heat in the copier/printer is applied very quickly and the paper then cools very quickly. I better idea would be to use an iron somehow. I am not sure what you could use between the iron and the paper. If you could get a sheet of silicone? I believe the pressure roller in the copier/printer is silicone. Some copiers used to use a silicone liquid on a the roller (obviously this would be in trace amounts or it would transfer to the paper.)I Googled " Copier Fuser temperature" and found one source that said a fuser can be up to 200 celsius. It is not only temperature however, but pressure that acts to bond the toner to the paper.
  18. Lord Red Dragon

    Lord Red Dragon E.V.I. ltd CEO

    Great info guys, love this site for the help I can get without even asking.
  19. calinous

    calinous New Member

    You should try with different temperatures for every type of paper that you use. Also, hot air "guns" used for heavy duty glueing could be used - they send air at (I think) 180 Celsius (but I think it might be selectable).
  20. mb1701d

    mb1701d New Member

    On copiers, when you print or copy you should be able choose the paper type. The ones that I service have at least one "thick paper mode" on the smaller models and 2 -3 on the larger ones (depending on the weight of the paper). This will help the toner transfer to the paper and most importantly slows down the paper as it travels through the Fusing Unit and bonds the toner better to the paper.

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