Krazy glue on card models

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by andrew ferguson, Dec 6, 2005.

  1. I'm sure this will have been discussed before but i've just been using Krazy glue to put my card model tank together. I've used both the thicker 'Precision' krazy glue and the regular 'original' krazy glue.

    The 'precision' is thicker, does not seep through the paper and holds very well but is difficult to get out of the tube because there is a plunger built into the tip that takes a lot of pressure to depress before the glue will come out. This was damaging the paper tabs i was gluing so i switched to regular, original krazy glue. I found that by first soaking the parts to be glued with the Krazy glue, letting it dry for a minute, then re-applying Krazy glue and gluing the parts i get a very strong, virtually immediate hold.

    This seems much simpler than using conventional paper glues which take forever to dry and require hours of holding in place.

    Any comments? Am i making a tremendous blunder?
  2. 46rob

    46rob Member

    If you use regular PVA glue (white glue) applying a thin coat to each piece and the letting it dry until it's tacky results in an immediate grip. If you want to go the "super glue" route--go to your neighborhood hobby shop and buy some of the specialized CA used by model builders. It comes in a variety of viscosities and you can also purchase an accelerator for truly intsant gripping. I like the "gap filling" type for small things like landing gear, or attaching tail surfaces. You can also buy applicator nozzzles that make the gluing more precise. You'll find that it's also less expensive, in the long run, than those little tubes of super glue. Once hardened, CA glues are brittle. A bit of PVA glue to reinforce the joint is a wise move.
  3. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    One caution on Krazy glue (or any other CyA glue) makes the paper brittle, and it will snap rather than fold. It does tend to soak through card and give visible discolorations....just smile and ask "Jeez....don't you recognize weathering when you see it?" I prefer the brush-on type myself. It does jell up after a week or so of starting to use it, but even Elmer's glue sets up in the bottle given enough time. One thing I've discovered is to use white glue to get the part positioned and held in place, then apply a little superglue to the joint...instant set, and it is a bit more elastic than superglue by itself. (However, use something other than the brush to apply the CyA...I think slight amounts of the Alphatic resin carry over into the CyA and are largely responsible for the jelling.)
  4. swiftsword

    swiftsword Member

    Personally, I'll only use Crazy Glue when I have to fix a bit of wire or plastic. It's just too messy, too hard to control, discolors the paper and sticks my fingers together.

    Anything card or paper will hold great with PVA. If you thin the PVA with water and apply the thinnest of coats it'll also give you immediate hold in most applications.


  5. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    Use what ever glue that works for you. That said I used good old Elmer’s for decades but recently switched to Wiccoll glue that is available form most of the on line suppliers of paper models. The secret to using PVA glues is a little goes a long way so if you are asking yourself if that’s enough glue to hold the part then most likely it’s to much glue use less. I agree with 46rob using a very thin coat of PVA glue on both parts you will find that the glue will set up faster then thick Cryo. I do use thick Cryo to glue metal to paper.

    Jim Nunn
  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Lengths of small diameter teflon tubing are sold at hobby shops that inserted into the tip of the CA bottle helps you gain complete control of the CA (even the thin stuff). A 1-1.5 cm length is cut from the length and inserted into the CA spout. Use a pin to enlarge the hole enough to allow the tube to be inserted. Leave 2-3 mm of tube outside the tip. When a session is finished push the tube back into the spout leaving enough for a pair of tweezers to grab and put the cap back on. Next session just pull up the tube and clip off 1 mm or so off the tip (only if its clogged) and its ready to go.

  7. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    I swear by (and sometimes at) UHU Alleskleber myself.
  8. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    For CA glue I've been using Loctite Gel Control Super Glue. It works better than Elmers Superglue because it stays where I put it until I press the parts together.
    I've been trying to minimize use of CA glue because of concerns about it being brittle. I've been using CVA glue(white glue) and Yes paste. Recently I've changed to using UHU Creativ'. The stuff in the yellow and orange tube. It doesn't cause the paper to warp as much as white glue does.

    With CA glue I try to use it in conjuction with other glues. I tack the part in place with the CA until the other glue can set up.
  9. SteveM

    SteveM Member

    If white glue is taking "hours to dry" then yes indeed you are doing something wrong. As others have already said, a thin coat of white glue will give an almost instant hold when given a good stong "squish" with a needle nose pliers. Cyanoacrylate is not really intended for porous materials, nor any application where it is not purely in tension. (Think famous commercial with guy hanging from hardhat superglued to I-beam). It is quite weak in shear and peel.

    Often people use super glue to try to "plasticize" paper, while it kinda works it really isn't very good at that either. The thing is, unlike a lot of glues, exposure to air does not cure cyanoacrylate. That is what accounts for its nearly instant bond between two very flat smooth surfaces, the lack of air. One trick I've read about but haven't tried yet is using baking soda as an accelerant to cure it in open air.
  10. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    I really use many different glues, but a note on CA glues.

    46Rob (Rob) gave me a very good tip and since trying it I don't know how I got a long with out it. Buy some of the CA accelerator (insta-set is the one I use) put the glue on the parts and spray a mist of this stuff and.......... BAM! it's stuck. You can also put the glue on one piece and accelerator on the other and instantly stick a small detail. Of course you MUST have it place exactly where you want.

    I've switched from white glue to yellow wood working glue for most of my glue ups, but.......... the CA glue and accelerator come in handy when I really need to stick something fast.

    On a side note.......... use the medium thick glue, the thin CA soaks into the paper (because it's porous as SteveM noted), and stains the model. The medium adheres more to the surface of the paper.

    Like all good tools, each has a specific purpose, and CA glue is a special tool I use.


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