KA's Ki-43 in 1/24 scale

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by NOBI, Jan 19, 2005.

  1. NOBI

    NOBI Active Member

    Hi There,

    After design model i like to increase KA's model and assemble because KA's model have much detail and look cool if increase scale and show in my working room or hang from ceiling.

    Now is KA's Nakajima Ki-43 Hayabusa....i finish engine and nose already, can tell that fitting is very good eventhough i increase scale from 1/33 to 1/24. detail is superb as KA's guarantee. more to come :D (Sorry with no good quality of image :( im not good at in photography :))

    *** PS. KA mean "Kartonowy Arsenal" in Andrej Halinski's publishing
  2. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Congratulations on attempting larger scale - I hope and think you'll find it well worth the effort, particularly with such detailed and fine-grained models as the Halinski series! - Leif
  3. NOBI

    NOBI Active Member

    Hi there,

    work more on Ki-43 :D fuselage finish and add tail and tail wing too. everything fit very well eventhough i increase scale :D
  4. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    And doesn't it look grand, too! - L.
  5. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Nobi, Leif,

    Is this 1:24 scale thing catching? It seems somehow to bring out detail that is lost at 1:33. Very subtle but evident.

  6. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Gil, couldn't agree more, of course. 1/24-1/25 somehow seems an optimum scale for the highly detailed card model aircrafts coming out now. Even the DC3 or even a B17 or Liberator will be entirely feasible in that scale, I'm sure.

    For smaller aircraft you can go still higher, like 1/16, and still retain the basic structure of the kit designs, as long as they are designed with a sturdy internal framework.

    Luckily, more and more people no longer have to feel restricted by commercial limitations (paper size, etc) of kit makers, since the use of a scanner and some rearranging of parts in almost any graphics program enables us to choose a scale that will bring out the high quality inherent in the models, and still being able to print them on standard width paper (although sometimes you need longer paper, but that's OK too) in the ordinary run-of-the-mill ink-jet printers.

    Just choose correspondingly thicker paper and cardstock.

  7. bfam4t6

    bfam4t6 Member

    Now come on Nobi. You know you can't just show us a nice juicy treat like that and not let us taste it! :lol: I'm sure the rest of the guys agree when I say we want to see some more when you get the chance. I understand that you can get busy designing your wonderful models, but if you don't show us a bit of progress then "Large Scale Leif"(cuz you always build 1/25 or bigger) may get a bit upset. Dumb humor aside, I look forward to seeing how the rest of the build goes when you get some free time.
  8. jyduchene

    jyduchene Member

    I was lucky enough to come by a Halinski ME 109 and am considering doing it in 1/24. Nobi, I know you have experience with this model, any suggestions or observations? and Lief I would welcome any tips from you as well. thanks John
  9. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    John, just a few ones, to sum up what's been said in other places:

    1. Scan in at least 150 dpi. Do the magnification already at the scanning stage. 33/24 = 137,5 percent. If you have an ordinary scanner, you'll have to scan each sheet twice.

    2. Make new "originals" in your graphic program, i.e. recombine the two scans into a new, larger, original. Use your magic wand to get rid of the white & dirty empty areas.

    In the overlapping area, you'll have to decide on a dividing line and cut away the not wanted parts from each scan, in order to get a new, properly aligned original. Avoid making the dividing line through actual parts if you can. It's better to make three or even four scans in tricky cases (large parts in the middle of the original) to avoid breaking up parts at this stage.

    3. Start making your own kit by copying groups of parts into your own, new, part sheets. Mostly, you'll be able to use standard A4 or letter size sheets.

    In some cases (wings etc), you'll find it advantageous to use larger paper sizes. Remember, you can create new print sizes the maximum width of your printer, and of almost unrestricted length.

    Therefore, you may well wan't to go with these larger sizes from the start. An exception may be the sheets which you print on ordinary copying paper for doubling onto thicker card (1 or 2 mm). The card sheets may not come in large sizes.

    4. Get thicker paper to print on. 0.25 mm seems to work fine. Get this in large sizes, and cut it up into the maximum width of your printer. I use 21.5 x 46 cm as standard size.

    Come to think of it, though, a Me109 in 1/24 will very likely go into standard A4 or Letter size papers all the way. The larger paper sizes may not be required until you go to 1/16. One less problem for you!

    Looking forward to seeing this. I hope and think you'll find it very satisfying to big these high-quality kits in larger scale. They sure deserve it. Holler if there's a problem at any stage when you're getting into it.

  10. RyanShort1

    RyanShort1 Member

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