Japanese (and other) F1 car models

Discussion in 'Commercial & Civilian Vehicles' started by Arjun, Mar 6, 2008.

  1. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    We've seen (and built) some of those Japanese (and other) F1 car models. In my first attempt, I tried using a very thick and stiff grade of card to construct a Ferrari. That had several outsized parts which wouldn't fit in where I wanted them to, and some folds wouldn't happen neatly. I then printed a grayscale version of that model on thin printer paper, and the parts fitted in a lot better, but I fear for the stability of such a model. That, of course, was when my printer ran out of ink. What kind of paper is suited best for that? I'd like to design a more current (or less designed) car, especially the Red Bull, new Renault and the Force cars.
  2. Lex

    Lex Dollmaker

    As I said, I use 80 or 160 gsm print paper universally and haven't experienced any problems with stability. --Though this is only personal opinion and others might argue otherwise ^^
  3. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    Putting together the parts of the back fins was tough. I literally had to stick the edges of the long parts on the flat faces. Some other tiny parts, notably the engine vents, were also tough to assemble with that thickness, but I haven't got anything to measure paper thickness or weight.
  4. malachite

    malachite Member

    Just to add my comments. The F1 models out of the Czech Republic by Petr Spinler and others use 120grm stock. I have made several of these and the strucure becomes very robust for the body and wings. Even the suspension arms, by doubling/laminating to themselves become strong. The whole structure can then be given a few coats of clear laquer to give further strength.
  5. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    I've again tried to build a Ferrari F1 2000 car. This time, I used normal print paper, without gluing paper end to end as with the Jaguar. The colour, as usual, was too dull, but I found a solution to that in that other thread on the Ferrari Formula 1 car. There are, however, a few more problems I encountered this time-
    • I don't know what makes up the back of the steering wheel.
    • I used tabs. It created a few problems, notably with smaller parts- maybe using thicker (or made thicker) paper without tabs will help matters a little.
    • The back of the side intakes went totally wrong. I still can't get that shape right, and the photos on the site are of no help.
    • Tyres were a painful thing to make.
    • I don't know how to put in the turning vein.
    • White patches stick out, as usual
    • The front wing is a confusing thing to model.
  6. Indy500Lee

    Indy500Lee Member

    I used a mix of 80 and 110lb paper, I feel the 110lb paper works well and is easy to work with. Also I print out about 3 sheets when I do a car and double up on some parts to make them stiffer and to fit better!! You can find this paper at Walmart, Staples!! Hope this helps!!

  7. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    Printing on thick (120gsm and over) card has been a tough ask for the printer. So this time, I printed on normal print paper and stuck it on another sheet, back to back. When I cut the shapes out, however, I got a few messy cuts with my paper cutter/blade, so it was back to scissors.

    This time, I cut off all the tabs. Putting the pieces together is such a nightmare! These edges don't hold, and collapse, leaving gaps! I even had to stick together some edges inside using cellophane tape.
  8. zealousy

    zealousy Member

    Don't cut off all the tabs...use them where you can and actually I found the tabless parts fit quite beatifully (I'm talking about the detail parts, not the structural elements where tabs are a definite 'yes'. I built the FW26 a few weeks back and I loved it! Hope this helps a bit though I'm a bit late to this thread :p

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