Interurban`s "how I do in the street trackage"

interurban

Active Member
I have been encourage to show how I make my in street trackage.
As I have surgery on the 5 January (partial Left knee implant) I thought I would put this together now.

First let me say This is only the way I do it there are other ways, I like this way.

The pictures will tell the tale.
I used a thin strip of balsa wood to create the road edge, if it was on my L/O the pavement would go in first as would all the street details.then I would cement up to that.
I have left it drying . when I get back to it I will post the finished project.
I have covered scribing out cobble stone as well on the last test piece I did.

First Pics are of R Orr girder rail and what you can do youself.
The project I show here is with ordinary track............
anyway here goes.
Happy scratch building folks
 

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interurban

Active Member
This is done on a piece of soft ply
 

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interurban

Active Member
An hour after laying the mix I smooth it out with water and brush
 

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interurban

Active Member
I practiced this section 2 years ago , it shows my attemps at scribing cobble stone also my scratched built girder rail.

btw Cobble stones were used as a means of easy access to the rail bed for quick repairs . :thumb:
 

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Matthyro

Will always be re-membered
Thanks for this how to Chris. That polyfilla is great stuff and I have used a few pounds of it.
 

jmarksbery

Active Member
:wave: Thanks Chris, I shoot the first question at ya as my old eyes don't see to clearly. Is the track laid like A in the diagram below or B? Or are they both wrong? Also where do you buy polyfill? OK 3 questions so shoot the old fool! :eek:ops:
 

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60103

Pooh Bah
jm: the old method for making the rail was as in diagram A. Code 70 was laid on its side with the head pushed into the web of code 100.
Polyfilla is available in every hardware store in Canada (well, Ontario, at least) and a lot of others as well.
Chris: sorry to hear you're going under, but I think you'll enjoy the results.
 

interurban

Active Member
Hi Folks, glad this has help some and taken away your fears :D

Hi Jim , David said it "A" is the right way, I use code 100 for both, after pinning the main track ,,tin both of them carefuly, lots of flux then hold together with pliers as you work down the rail soldering quickly.
Reason I use poyfill is I want to creat a road thats been laid in 1930/40 and it`s well used if you get my drift , cracking, pot holes and such.

I will work on the projact today and show the easy way I get the track cleaned ready for wheels..
David the knee should keep me off work for a few months, then I hope to have the right one fixed too. :thumb: I cannot wait friend.



PS you can use speckling compound instead of pollyfill. looks like a new road though.
 

spitfire

Active Member
That's a great how-to Chris. Thanks!! Sorry about the surgery, but maybe that willl give you some modelling time while you're recovering. :D :D

I can't figure out how you would bend code 100 rail around a tight curve when it's on it's side like that. Is a special tool used?

Having laid the Atlas flextrack on half of my trolley module, I am now wishing I waited and ordered Orr girder rail. Might have to rip it out and start over.

Val
 

interurban

Active Member
spitfire said:
That's a great how-to Chris. Thanks!! Sorry about the surgery, but maybe that willl give you some modelling time while you're recovering. :D :D

I can't figure out how you would bend code 100 rail around a tight curve when it's on it's side like that. Is a special tool used?

Having laid the Atlas flextrack on half of my trolley module, I am now wishing I waited and ordered Orr girder rail. Might have to rip it out and start over.

Val

Thanks Val, I have tried to make my own curved girder rail with some success, but it was not easy.I used set track then dremal cut sections off the rail edges cuts or shave a section. then soldor them.
I will be scribing out the project later today and will post the Pictures, then you can decide if you need to go with girder rail.
 

Chessie6459

Gauge Oldtimer
Looks Great Chris. The more i look at it, it makes me want to build a little line on my future Southern Pennsylvania Lines. Thanks for the step by step process. :wave:
 

cobra

Member
Chris , I'm thinking of doing something like that around some of the buildings in my steel mill . What is the best way to keep the plaster from the inside of the rails so that there is no interference with the wheels . Do you roll an old car through several times while the plaster is partially dried ? I use code 100 HO .

NEIL
 

interurban

Active Member
cobra said:
Chris , I'm thinking of doing something like that around some of the buildings in my steel mill . What is the best way to keep the plaster from the inside of the rails so that there is no interference with the wheels . Do you roll an old car through several times while the plaster is partially dried ? I use code 100 HO .

NEIL

Hi Neil,, Look at the last thread I did called finishing the streettrackage.
All the info and how to is there friend.
Show me when you have laid it. :wave:

Here is the finished track thread Niel

http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=12361
 

interurban

Active Member
Hi Ron where have you been?

Not heard from you since the TO Christmas show :wave:

Thanks for that Link I have sent it to Val. :thumb:
Gonna take a good look now.
 

TinGoat

Ignorant know it all
Keepin' a low profile...

interurban said:
Hi Ron where have you been?

Hi Chris,

I've mostly been hanging my head in shame.. :cry:

I've spent so much time talking about model railroading and too little time actually doing anything.

So I thought that I would keep a low profile until I actually had something to show.

As it is, the only thing that I have to show is that I have set up an On30 Conspiracy Module Standards (OCMODS) web-page.

http://www.vif.com/users/r-rhurlbut/On30-Modules/intro.html

It's all the same stuff as on the Yahoo OCMODS Group, files section.

But now, you don't have to join Yahoo to see them.
 
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