Inkjet surface coating and heat activated adhesive discovery

Discussion in 'Tools of the Trade' started by Gil, Aug 20, 2004.

  1. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Hello Everyone,

    I discovered something today that may be of use to many of you.

    Your everyday glue stick adhesive can be disolved with denatured alcohol. I disolved it in enough alcohol to make a mixture capable of being sprayed with an airbrush. I proceeded to lightly coat a piece of low cost overhead film and let it dry. The film was then put in my Canon i560 printer and a suitable file output to it. To my amazement and complete suprise the print quality looked like it was on a plain paper surface (I am very used to seeing pools of beaded inkjet ink on experimental surfaces).

    The other benefit here is the ability to bond sheets together without much trouble. Coat one or both surfaces with the adhesive mixture and let them dry. Position the two surfaces together and iron both together at high heat. The glue will activate and both surfaces will be bonded inseparably together.

    How's that for 30 minutes of work?

    Best regards, Gil

    P.S. A light coat of clear acrylic spray was used to "fix" the ink. Also this could be used to make an iron on transfer with a suitable transfer base material.
  2. NOBI

    NOBI Active Member

    Hi There,

    So can it work like 3M SPRAY MOUNT what is very expensive?


    i hate to spread white glue over surface :D
  3. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Using diluted white glue for laminating

    Like you, Nobi, I have been wary of using white glue for laminating. So it was a great to discover spray mount glue that does not make the laminated sheets warp.

    But after having used a full can (nothing like your set of cans!), I am very tired of that too. It is, like you say, expensive, and it stinks up the whole apartment and causes unnecessary aggravation.

    So I decided to revert to my general policy of "everything water soluble from now on". Tonight I tried diluted white glue, applied with a paint brush. It works fine, particularly if you laminate BOTH sides of the cardboard.

    1. Dilute an old container of white glue with water until you get the general feeling of paint, rather than glue.

    2. Apply it to one side of the cardboard (not the thinner paper to be glued on). Glue on a blank sheet of the same thickness as your print sheet. Press under a newspaper (or even better a clean sheet of paper).

    3. Turn the laminate around, apply glue on the "front" side of the cardboar. Press on the printed sheet. Press under paper. Put the completed doublesided laminate under your cutting matt to dry under pressure for half an hour or so.

    I did not experience much of warping this way, and the printed sheet seems to adhere even better than using the rubbery spray mount glue.

    And no stinking up the apartment any longer.

    But I would of course be EXTREMELY interested in learning from what you will eventually arrive at Gil!

  4. Laminating with PVA (ie Elmers, Alene's etc.) glues does work but unfortunately it is also time consuming. Spread the glue, position the next sheet and then let set overnight with a fair amount of weight on it. That being the case I do prefer to use spray adhesive. I just won't shell out what they want for the 3M product. I can ussually find one of the knock off brands for at least a third of what Supper 77 costs. Plus the time frame between gluing and starting to cut is very low. And that is to me the single most precious comodity in life not to mention hobby work.
  5. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Hello All,

    Washable glue sticks can be thinned or disolved in water. The use of denatured alcohol was meant only to decrease the drying time.

    Leif's on the right track by thinning white glue with water it's just that it must be used vary sparingly otherwise the water moisture will penetrate the paper relieving the fibers causing the paper to wrinkle. The use of Carpenter's glue or aliaphatic resin thinned with water will also work. It can be allowed to dry and left till you're ready to bond the surfaces together by pressing with a hot iron thus activating the glue. This is a cabinet makers trick for applying veneers.

    Nobi, don't toss the 3M spray just yet as it is still time convenient. One item of note is that the adhesion of the thinned glue stick seems less at first until it's realized that it soaks into the paper more due to it's reduced viscosity requiring several coats to build up enough of a layer to assure a strong bond. This has the added effect of making the combined layers much stiffer after being iron/pressed together (the internal paper fibers become bonded together by the penetrating glue). The amount of surface penetration is controlled by the viscosity of the applied mixture.

    I still have further tests on various substances as regards the inkjet adhesion which is the greater importance of this process. A light coat works on impermeable surfaces as there is no penetration but forms a coating layer which acts as a substrate for the inkjet application.

    Best regards, Gil
  6. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    This could really develop into something interesting. Am following it with great interest.

    The PVA I used last night was actually carpenter's glue. I press the surfaces together wet, and I don't wait more than tops one hour to cut parts.

    I'll really consider the tip about letting the dry separately, and then iron them together. Would get rid of warping as well, which is another advantage. Thanks for that very good tip!

  7. Bikerpete

    Bikerpete Member


    For laminating formers and bulkheads I use 3M 568 Positionable Mounting adhesive paper that I buy in off the roll from a drafting supply store here in Calgary. I normally apply the sticky side to cover a large section of cardsttock then press it down with a roller or squeegee. When I need to laminate a model part I cut and remove a suitably sized section of backing paper then the model part is placed on the newly revealed adhesive and pressed down with a squeegee to make the bond and move out any small air pockets. The resulting laminate is strong, clean and wrinkle free. Once the two pieces are pressed together its almost impossible to separate them without damage. I have not torture tested the product to see if it is damaged by solvents but so far I have not had any de-laminations due to handling or aging. The adhesive itself adds .001 to .0015 inch (.04 mm) of thickness to the lamination.

    The transfer adhesive has a long shelf life and works even if its kept in storage for a couple of months. The costs is about $3.15 per foot off of a two foot wide roll so it is a little expensive. (6 X 2 foot section $18.90)

    In the picture the roll adhesive on the left, applied and covering peeled back in center, and a laminated part on the right. Its hard to see the glue layer but its there on the center part.

    Peter B
  8. 57townsman

    57townsman Member

    In a similar vein, I've seen photographic laminating tissue which is heat applied. Its used to attach photos to mounting board. A few companies make it, one being Kodak. Very expensive though :cry:

  9. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Hi All,

    Steve, thanks for the reminding me about laminate films. I have a roll of "Easy Roller" a double sided film in a dispenser. It dispenses a tape surface about 4 mm wide. I tested it on a piece of scrap card stock and some regular aluminum foil. In a word it worked beautifullly! The end result looks just like a stock piece of sheet aluminum. Now to see if it passes the dreaded bend delamination tests...,

    Best, Gil
  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Hi All,

    More experiments have led to some interesting observations. The Aluminum Foil Paper experiments have led to most of these.

    Aleene's Tacky Glue can act like a contact cement under the right conditions. I coated both surfaces with the glue and squeegeed it to a thin film and let dry for around 10~15 minutes. The two pieces were then aligned and pressed togehter after which they were ironed with a hot iron. The paper can be positioned somewhat while ironing allowing ship hull curves to be formed (using a curling iron or a monokote iron) by tacking in the correct laminate positions before ironing in the overall bond. Once set the bond is permanent and will hold it's shape. The bond was destructively tsted and failed with the paper delaminating before the bond.

    Neat stuff, Gil

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