How to glue without tabs?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by ronash, Mar 30, 2007.

  1. ronash

    ronash New Member

    Hello anyone.
    I looked here and some peoples say that they don't use the tabs in the model.
    So, how do they glue it?
    Where should I spread the glue?
    Does white glue is a fine glue too?

  2. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member


    There is a technique called "butt jointing" this is basically used with two formers on each end of the piece, and the next section is butt glued together. White PVA....... elmer's alieens........ are ok in moderation.

    Small parts can be edge glue if you are patient and sure-handed.

    Hope this helps.

  3. ronash

    ronash New Member

    what does PVA means?
    so if I have 2 pieces that should glue together and make 90 degrees, should I just put glue on the edge of one piece and it will be glued?

  4. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    You can use what is called joining strips in place of the tabs. You cut off the tab, then using a strip of paper or cardstock as long as the tab and twice as wide you glue half of the joining strip to the part where you cut the tab off, on the unprinted side. Making the joining strip look like back to back tabs helps. You then apply glue to the other half of the joining strip and glue it to the other part, where the tab would have gone. The two parts wind up being butt joined, making a smoother transition between the parts.

    As has been stated you can edge join smaller parts without the tabs or joining strips. I use Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue in the purple bottle or Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue in the silver bottle when doing this. Both are white PVA type glues that grab and dry fast so you don't have to hold the parts for a long time before the glue joint is strong.
  5. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Ma Nishma :)
    Theres a picture of the butt joints I did on an aircraft nose cone here
    you can see on the inside how it all fits, and on the outside how much neater it can be, plus how much neater I need to get!
  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Thanks Kaz...............

    That is one BIG spider:-o

    Very Brave Girl!
  7. ronash

    ronash New Member

    For SCEtoAux, I'm a bit confused how should I do it, so few pictures will help.
    And for Kaz, I'm more confused.
    First of all, do you speak Hebrew or you know just those 2 words? (means what's new)
    And second of all, I still didn't get it.
    If anyone can do it for me, please capture a short video which in this video you will show me how to do that.

  8. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Sadly my Hebrew runs to just those two words, I was told its a way of saying hi! (I guess it is) I learnt a few phrases when watching Ushpinzin (spelling?) what a great film.
    Anyhow, go back here
    Theres a few more photos I quickly did to show the whole process, the last one showing the inside of the join is way too light, but the rest should help you.
  9. ronash

    ronash New Member

    So, basicly, you just glue other tab to the first piece and glue the glued tab to the second tab, if I understood it correctly, and that is exactly what tabs were made for, so what is the great advantage?
    And for the Hebrew, I'll teach you few things tomrrow (in 12 hours I guess), I'm way too tired now.

    Lehitraot (which means good bye),
    Ron (name which means song, or hapiness).
  10. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member

    I can explain this one...

    Yes, the backing tab is glued to one piece, and then the other.

    By using a seperate tab, the joint looks much smoother. When you use the "normal", attached tabs, it leaves a bump the thickness of the paper. By using a backing tab, the two edges are flush, thus no exposed edges or bump...
  11. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    The biggest advantage to using the joining strips is that one side is not raised above the other by the thickness of the cardstock or paper. The surfaces of the two parts being joined, or the closed joint of a cylinder or cone are more flush with each other. No big deal if they are not, some folks just like a more clean, flush look.:)

    The attached pics shows the joining strip.
    2parts shows two parts, one with a tab one without
    tabcutoff shows the tab cut off the part
    tabs shows what the tab looks like when cut off and shows the joining strip.
    front&back shows what the joining strip looks like when glued to the part. I contrasted the joining strip on the back so it can be seen better.

    You can then form a cylinder by curling the part and glueing at the joining strip or you can form a longer straight piece by glueing another stratight piece to the joining strip.

    Attached Files:

  12. yaniv

    yaniv Active Member



    is that areal spider?

  13. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    What about when two pieces come together at a 90 degree angle?

    Is there any advantage for using backing tabs in that situation? Even with a backing tab, you will still have at least one exposed edge, right?
  14. Texman

    Texman Guest

    Art Decko,

    You could eliminate even the one exposed edge by beveling the edges
    to be joined. Think picture frame corner.

  15. Kaz

    Kaz Member

    Yaniv, yes a real, wild, UK spider, Carmen wanted to keep it, mum said no. :(

    Back to topic.
    SCEtoAux has some good photos, with the corners of the joining tab cut off. which reminded me of the joining strips used on the Wally rocket, they are arrow shaped, with the point of the arrow sticking out of the end of the tube, this located into the recess of the next tube, keeping it in line.
    Parts 2a 6a and 8a are the parts in question.
  16. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    Thanks for the reply!

    I can see how that would work well on shorter seams, but what about longer ones? I doubt my ability to make a cut with a 45-degree edge evenly along a long seam - if the angle of the edge wanders a bit, will that produce a visible variation along the edge of the seam? Or does the glue possibly fill in a reasonable amount of edge angle variation?

    I like to eliminate visible paper edges where possible, but for me, cutting evenly beveled edges sounds tricky (without special equipment, anyway). Or at least it sounds more diffficult than coloring an exposed edge. ;)
  17. Texman

    Texman Guest

    One technique I use, when needed, is to take my metal ruler, and using a fair amount of pressure to hold it down, I align it almost to the edge of the paper. Then I just angle my blade to make the bevel cut. But you are correct, it is easier on short seams.

  18. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    Ray, I will give it a try, thanks!

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