HO Power Supply

[royzee]

I am new to this forum & model railroading.I have a lifelike ho scale w/powerloc track that I am trying to upgrade.I have a 18v AC 16v DC 7va max output power supply, and it does'nt move the train at all.I have maybe 30 to 40 pieces of track & 4 turnouts.I am looking for an inexpensive way to power this thing & right now all I can find is the MRC tech 4 200/260.But I don't even know if this is compatible with the terminal track I have that came with the set.I would appreciate if someone could give me a little advice on this subject or some links were I might be able to find something.I would also be happy to give you more info if needed.
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[jim currie]

Hi and welcome to the Gauge. are you sure the power pack is dead it might be your track is just dirty, if the pack is dead the MRC will work just fine.

 

[Tileguy]

I think even if it were not dead you will really like the features of the Tech 4 series .
Momentum, braking etc on the 240 and proportional tracking will blow you away if youve never used anything but a standard power pack.

 

[royzee]

Thank you for your feedback, but no the power pack is not dead because it worked before I added the extra track.Also most of the track is brand new so I don't think the track is dirty,But it could be. I will clean it & then see what happens.If that does'nt work, and I do buy the new powerpack,what do I need to get to wire it to the terminal track?It is standard terminal track that came with the set,and I can't find terminal track for Lifelike Powerloc track.

Again Thank You all for your input.

 

[Ralph]

Hi royzee,

Just a quick question. Since the power pack worked before and the track seems to be clean I just wanted to know if you arranged your latest track in a return loop in which a train would complete a circle and then return through a turnout, but now in the opposite direction. A lot of folks new to the hobby create return loops without knowing that they have special electrical considerations due to reversed polarity. Your power pack will likley not work under these conditions. (?)
Ralph

 

[Union Pacific]

hi royzee and wecome to the gauge

I can run 2-4 locos and 5 turnouts nicely with my Railpower 1300 it was only $35 I am satisfied with it if you don't really need momentum and braking then it will work just fine if it was me though I would go ahead and spend a few extra bux for the 1370

Thanx, Ben

 

[royzee]

Eureka! Thanks Ralph,that does seem to be the problem.Now do I need to simplify my layout,or is there a somewhat easy & affordable way for me to make it work the way I have it setup?

 

[brakie]

MRC makes several types of power packs..All will get the job done.

 

[green_elite_cab]

one way is to make a dog bone, which is very similar, except you will have a parrallel track, instead of it going back down the same track. its not really worth it to mess with all that polarity stuff on track like Powerloc, unless you are going to permanently nail it down on a table. at that point i'd reccomend regular track, but thats off topic.

also, and MRC power pack would be awesome.

 

[Ralph]

Eureka! Thanks Ralph,that does seem to be the problem.Now do I need to simplify my layout,or is there a somewhat easy & affordable way for me to make it work the way I have it setup?

royzee,

I'm so smart because I did this once as well! A couple of questions first.
Have you broken your track plan into any electrical "blocks"? Do you have any experience with that? If not, it refers to isolating sections of track so you can turn power on and off to parts of your layout. It will, for instance, let you park a train on a siding and let another train go by, adding to the fun and prototypical action.

Reverse loops need to be wired as an isolated block and be connected to a double pole, double throw switch that reverses the polarity of your track when your train goes through the loop. I apologise for not being the most electrically inclined forum member, otherwise I'd try to draw you a sketch. If wiring isn't your forte you might consider buying Atlas' book on model railroad wiring that features the use of their easy to hook up components. I use them.

There are other fine books about wiring at your hobby store that feature regular electrical switches.

Your other alternative is to reconfigure the track in a way that does not create a return loop.

Best wishes!
Ralph