HMS Victory, Shipyard, 1:96
- Thread starter fuchsjos
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B
Bionic Modeler
The problem is, the only people who appreciate this attention to detail are thos eof us who build them.. If I did this my wife would just look at it and say "very nice honey" never thinking for a minute all the work that went into making it happen.
You work is stupendous. You inspire us all.
I was wondering if soldering wire might work for some of these parts?
You work is stupendous. You inspire us all.
I was wondering if soldering wire might work for some of these parts?
Thank you to all of you for the nice comments - it is still showing mem that it is right to do all the work.
@timhinds1@cox.net:
The most heard words from my honey are the words: 'You're complete buggy, my dear!'
Attention! The channel support brackets are made of 1 mm aluminium wire - this is stable enough for the short distance. The soldering wire was only used to simulate the molding on the channels. There it is glued to a small slice of cardboard with CA glue and for this reason it is good to use, because it cannot move around anymore.
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During the work for the channels, I had some ideas for the coppering of the underwater area of the hull. In the kit there are some prints in a fine metallic effect, but I want more.
First I made a quick test of my idea and found it good enough to use it on the model.
A copy of the parts was engraved with a sharp knife to simulate the borders of the plates and a small gearwheel was used to show the nails. The original printing was so fine, that I had to draw all of the lines in CorelDraw again to get a useful print.
The coloring method was the same as with the decks (see there at the rather beginning of the reports). Only the main color was not a light brown but Alcad II Copper. That's the optic of the first part on the hull.
I used some green color to show a very light patina - it is only a feeling of green, but this is just right.
Now I'm working to finish the channels and will come back, when the keel is in work.
Josef
@timhinds1@cox.net:
The most heard words from my honey are the words: 'You're complete buggy, my dear!'
Attention! The channel support brackets are made of 1 mm aluminium wire - this is stable enough for the short distance. The soldering wire was only used to simulate the molding on the channels. There it is glued to a small slice of cardboard with CA glue and for this reason it is good to use, because it cannot move around anymore.
=====
During the work for the channels, I had some ideas for the coppering of the underwater area of the hull. In the kit there are some prints in a fine metallic effect, but I want more.
First I made a quick test of my idea and found it good enough to use it on the model.
A copy of the parts was engraved with a sharp knife to simulate the borders of the plates and a small gearwheel was used to show the nails. The original printing was so fine, that I had to draw all of the lines in CorelDraw again to get a useful print.
The coloring method was the same as with the decks (see there at the rather beginning of the reports). Only the main color was not a light brown but Alcad II Copper. That's the optic of the first part on the hull.
I used some green color to show a very light patina - it is only a feeling of green, but this is just right.
Now I'm working to finish the channels and will come back, when the keel is in work.
Josef
B
Bionic Modeler
Copperleaf might work and if you get the real thing it will patina on it's own naturally. But you would loose the detail of the nails and planks unless you score the paper and indent ea. nail. this would preserve some of the detail.
My wife understands the work that goes into these projects. She just does not understand why we do it at all.
Josef the copper hull is beautiful!
This build is really inspiring. I doubt I'll ever get to this level, but it sure is fun watching someone else build a masterpiece like this.
The staggered joint on the copper plate is good. I do not know if you came up with that on your own or if it is how the model is presented. I have seen before where some complain about the very obvious vertical joint when making long walls or other structures where more than one print to cover the length is needed. I have always suggested making staggered joints, using the natural features of the texture to hide the joint whenever possible, like the copper plates on the hull of that ship. It seems to work. The vertical joint where the two parts meet is usually not obvious at all.
Your work on the Victory is very good. :thumb:
Thanks for sharing.
Your work on the Victory is very good. :thumb:
Thanks for sharing.
As usual, I am looking at your posts with a lot of interest, Josef.
And, on the way, learning a lot. Wainting for more. Thank you.
And, on the way, learning a lot. Wainting for more. Thank you.
Joseph, your building process are a very valuable one. The step by step is superb, the details are mastership in themselves, the overall of this ship is magnificent.
I'm one of those lucky guys whose wife goes beyond the "nice, honey" words.
I'm one of those lucky guys whose wife goes beyond the "nice, honey" words.
Oh, man!
Thats fantastic! The texture looks as tho it were a real ship, just scaled down! Very cool wokr. :thumb:
Thats fantastic! The texture looks as tho it were a real ship, just scaled down! Very cool wokr. :thumb:
Josef, do you feel well? Do you have had any problem?
23 days without any progress on the HMS Victory, I miss your formative posts. :thumb:
Thank you.
23 days without any progress on the HMS Victory, I miss your formative posts. :thumb:
Thank you.
Hello friends!
Thank you for all the nice comments and for the attention to my reports ...
... and now the show goes on:
After finishing of the channels next step was building the keel. But before I reduced the glossy shine with a cloud of colorless flat finish.
The keel is a very important step it's accuracy is important for the final look of the ship. To get a stable and strong connection I used some pieces of 1 mm iron wire in the glued connection. Here you can see the front part of the keel, made of 4 mm cardboard.
Between the front and end section I used two aluminium profiles as a help to get a straight line for the big middle part.
Also here I used some pieces of iron wire to get a strong connection. The 4 mm cardboard were created with some smaller sheets: 0,15 + 0,4 + 1,0 + 0,9 + 1,0 +0,4 + 0,15 mm = 4,0 mm. In the sheet with 0,9 mm (just in the middle) I cut some slices with 1,0 mm before gluing to create a jig.
The result was a very straight and centric keel.
Here you can see the symmetric alignment of the channels. Each side contain 5 pieces of them.
As exclusion for the keel I adapted this connector to the bow deck (gammoning knee).
With the keel the body of the ship don't lay even on the table anymore - so it was time to make a pedestal.
After this time I have to push myself especially because there is a prominent and competent observer to my reports. Mr. McKay (the author of the well known book 'Anatomy of the Ship ... Victory) will take a look at my work from time to time. The last weeks I had an agile email contact with him, because I wrote him about my wish to buy large scale copies of some drawings in the book. It was a very nice and trouble free contact with Mr. McKay and I will send him in this way my kind regards and a big 'Thank you!'. At ghe moment the drawings are on their way from Canada to Austria.
At the moment I'm working at the copper of the underwater area and will come back with further results of my work.
Kindly regards
Josef
=====
Thank you for all the nice comments and for the attention to my reports ...
... and now the show goes on:
After finishing of the channels next step was building the keel. But before I reduced the glossy shine with a cloud of colorless flat finish.
The keel is a very important step it's accuracy is important for the final look of the ship. To get a stable and strong connection I used some pieces of 1 mm iron wire in the glued connection. Here you can see the front part of the keel, made of 4 mm cardboard.
Between the front and end section I used two aluminium profiles as a help to get a straight line for the big middle part.
Also here I used some pieces of iron wire to get a strong connection. The 4 mm cardboard were created with some smaller sheets: 0,15 + 0,4 + 1,0 + 0,9 + 1,0 +0,4 + 0,15 mm = 4,0 mm. In the sheet with 0,9 mm (just in the middle) I cut some slices with 1,0 mm before gluing to create a jig.
The result was a very straight and centric keel.
Here you can see the symmetric alignment of the channels. Each side contain 5 pieces of them.
As exclusion for the keel I adapted this connector to the bow deck (gammoning knee).
With the keel the body of the ship don't lay even on the table anymore - so it was time to make a pedestal.
After this time I have to push myself especially because there is a prominent and competent observer to my reports. Mr. McKay (the author of the well known book 'Anatomy of the Ship ... Victory) will take a look at my work from time to time. The last weeks I had an agile email contact with him, because I wrote him about my wish to buy large scale copies of some drawings in the book. It was a very nice and trouble free contact with Mr. McKay and I will send him in this way my kind regards and a big 'Thank you!'. At ghe moment the drawings are on their way from Canada to Austria.
At the moment I'm working at the copper of the underwater area and will come back with further results of my work.
Kindly regards
Josef
=====
Josef, I continue to be amazed by this build and your skills.
This is a very realistic museum quality build.
I say this having been on the actual HMS Victory a number of times and having seen many models of it in museums.
Please keep on enjoying what you are doing.
Kudos.:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
This is a very realistic museum quality build.
I say this having been on the actual HMS Victory a number of times and having seen many models of it in museums.
Please keep on enjoying what you are doing.
Kudos.:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
Great work man, the effort put into this is amazing.
I have a small question. Do you know if there is a model of the Endeavor from pirates of the Caribbean 3? This model looks close to it, so even if there isn't one, i think it would be interesting to modify this design to look like the Endeavor
I have a small question. Do you know if there is a model of the Endeavor from pirates of the Caribbean 3? This model looks close to it, so even if there isn't one, i think it would be interesting to modify this design to look like the Endeavor
Thank's to all for the attention to my thread.
@Sebret: I Don't know if there is a model af the film in the market but it looks like they have used a model of the Victory for some film cuts. Some details in the film are definitly from the Victory and on other scenes it looks like an other ship.
Kind regards
Josef
@Sebret: I Don't know if there is a model af the film in the market but it looks like they have used a model of the Victory for some film cuts. Some details in the film are definitly from the Victory and on other scenes it looks like an other ship.
Kind regards
Josef
Congratulations. The model (and your daughter) looks fine. On future questions about rigging details etc the photographs on this webpage my help you:
http://www.modelships.de/Victory_II/Victory_II_eng.htm
http://www.modelships.de/Victory_II/Victory_II_eng.htm
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