HMS Savage build

shoki2000

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Feb 6, 2004
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www.gremirmodels.com
jrts said:
A quick question Michael is the CD locked for resizing as I like my ships in 1/250 if pos??

Regards

Rob

Rob,

CD will hit the mail on Monday :D

About the resizing - Software has an option to calibrate printout to your printer to ensure that you will have an exact scale. When you go through the process (simple print of a rectangle with given size which you mesure and input correct numbers in the software) recalculate the results to correspond with the 1:250 scale and you should be ok.

Mike
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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Brighton Uk
"A" gun

Finally fisted the horrible gun and built a new one photos not that good light went and the wind blew.

Jim

I put the others in the junkies file then Ron can dump em if he needs space

barry
 

jrts

Active Member
Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

Always feels great when you fist something and it turns out even better.
Can't wait to have a go at this one it will be hard not to have the printer bangging away as soon as she gets here :lol:

Outstanding work me old mate.

Regards

Rob
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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Savage fore deck

Hi All

Spent most of my time manufacturing what seems like yards of railings added a few bits to the fore deck as a change.

barry
 

jrts

Active Member
Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

Are you sticking with the thread for the rails or moved onto the wire?
The main gun does look great
Very nice set of photos

Regards

Rob
 

Ajax

Member
Apr 20, 2004
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Nice closeups of the foredeck area! And they give a clearer view of the new gun as a bonus -- Rob's right, it does look great! :D

AJ
 

barry

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Jan 28, 2004
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Savage rails funnel deflectors

Hi All

Still winches and bollards to go and about 24" of deck rail to solder, I think I will have to rig the ship before adding the deck rails due to some complexity around the ships boats. Added the funnel deflectors tonight.

Still doubling up the card on Fuso

barry
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

Better and better with each photo.
I think your right about rigging it first it would be a sod to do later.

Michael

My copy has arrived, if it had been any quicker the ink on the address would still be wet :lol:

Great stuff Barry keep it comeing

Regards

Rob
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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Savage foredeck

Hi All

Added some more bits to Savage the foredeck furniture is now complete and the last bits on the bridge. Also the bit on the funnel where the down radio aerials attach it can just be seen between the steam pipes. Still fabricating railings by the yard.

barry
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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funnel platform ladder

Hi

tried to make a ladder had to see what it looked like, looks a bit better in real life.

The deck rails are going to be a sod to fix as well I will have to be careful not to get a stanchion in between the bollards.

barry
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

Its all in the practise, try putting the stanchions inboard and rail on the outside. If you are crossing the wire over and not butting it up to each bit it will give a better look to all your hard work, same with the ladder. just a thought!!

To make these things is hard due to the small scale of the model. Nothing wrong with the ladder and rails a very good job.

Keep at it your doing great

Look forward to seeing her with all her bits on soon.

Regards

Rob
 

Jim Krauzlis

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Sep 26, 2005
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Barry, the rails look great. Nice job!

One thing I did when installing my railings was to make a crude template using the curve of the outside edge of the deck and then plot the run of the stanchions. I marked little dots along this template to show the stanchion locations and put little boxes along the run to indicate where the deck fittings would be located along the edge of the deck so as to try and avoid having a stanchion placed in that spot.

I was fortunate to find photos of the actual ship which helped in figuring out the number and location of stanchions along the deck. I also noticed in the photos where a deck fitting was located along the run of the rails, like a chock, the lower rail was left out of the railing at that location, with a stanchion placed on each side of the fitting, which allowed space for the fitting between the stanchion and below the two upper rails.

I'm not sure if Savage has the same setup, but using a crude template made figuring out the stanchion location and spacing a little easier for me, and I ended up just clipping out the lower rail where it spanned the fitting. It was a little more work drawing this template, but the rails then fit pretty well and I avoided the potential problem of having the stanchion or lower rails in a spot where the fittings were located.

Not sure if this will help in your case, but thought I'd throw that out in case it might.

Jim
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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railings

Jim

I think thats called think ahead, at the moment I was just glad the looked like railings. At the moment I am trying to do Robs trick with the ladders only trouble is it's all by touch cos I can't see the damn things but I have got half of one side done, the swearing will start when try to stick the other side on but I'm learnibg as I go.

regards

barry
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

If you look on the deck of Savage all the stanchion points are marked as dots with a small ring around it.
Nearly all models now have these.

Hope this helps

Regards

Rob
 

barry

Active Member
Jan 28, 2004
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Ladders

Rob

Thanks again unfortunately my old printer was not that good the stanchion points would show up on my new one though. If you look at "A" gun and compare the colour depth with the deck you will see what I mean.

I had another go at the funnel laddersusing your technique for railings abd a fair bit of swearing the result is not that great but better (in my opinion anyway).

I guess I will get round to the rigging eventually.

barry