Hi from England

Discussion in 'Zealot Archives' started by amedcalf, Oct 3, 2008.

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  1. amedcalf

    amedcalf returning to modeling

    Hi all

    Just joined and thought that I would introduce myself.

    I've been building models for years now. but not of the card type. Thought it was time to see what I can (or cannot do. lol).

    Was just wondering tho. Where is the best place to get the cardstock from and what GSM. Also what do you guy's and girl's use to stick it all together.

    Sorry for all the questions but my son is pestering me to build the Bumblebee model by Cláudio.


  2. Tim Crowe

    Tim Crowe Member

    Hi Allan

    I use 180 gsm card for most things and occasionally 90 gsm (copier paper) for small diameter tubing.

    Glue wise - normal white glue, less is best. and a Pritt stick for large area to avoid warping.

  3. amedcalf

    amedcalf returning to modeling

    thanks for the quick response Tim.

    Where is the best place to get the card from.


  4. col. kurtz

    col. kurtz Member

    a4 160gm and 80gm ,i use staples about £5 for a big pack of bout 500 4 160gm card sheets,hobbycraft for a4 sheets 200gm about £1.50 about 25 in the pack.:thumb:
  5. col. kurtz

    col. kurtz Member

    i find 160s/gm better for me, forming curved and complex shapes such as aircraft bodys and wings, and most sci fi stuff,like the klingon bird of prey i built which is on the sci fi forum here:thumb:
  6. David H

    David H Member


    Woolies stock adequate cardstock but your local art shop / stationers should have packs of white card for a couple of £. If you are doing a download model with coloured sections you could buy coloured card and save on edge painting (files might require some fiddling in photoshop or the like).

    Scavenge thicker card, for laminating formers, from old packaging and cereal boxes and stick pattern sheets down with 3M photo mounting spray. It's pricey but a small can will last a long time and it dries quickly with no warping.

  7. TonyG2

    TonyG2 Member

    Hi Allen

    I'm a bit contrary! I use a "brilliant matt white" coated 120gm weight paper from WH Smiths for basic printing.

    Benefits? Superb sharp printing. No colour bleed or soaking into heavier stock paper. You can fold really sharply with little or no scoring.

    Downside? No as strong so you may need to reinforce the structure.

    Glue? I use a water soluble white "school" glue as a basic glue. For something stronger I use EvoStick wood glue. For internal bracing I use Uhu.

    Internal bracing? I borrowed a tip from Mel Ebbles site and use wooden tongue depressors or failing that an equivalent from a craft store. I also use artists mounting board for wider areas and stuff in offcuts of card to pack out areas and then pour in Uhu. That has the effect of a filler and makes for a rigid - even solid - part.

    This is a link to a build up report of a
    Vanarrr Jet Cruiser from Homeworld that I hope illustrates what I mean.
  8. amedcalf

    amedcalf returning to modeling

    Thanks for all the fast responses.

    I'll be off to my local Staples and WH Smiths tomoz


  9. malachite

    malachite Member

    First off, welcome.
    I've got to agree with one of the previous comments. 120g paper/card is a good weight to start with. I use Georgia-Pacific Photo Matte Ink Jet from Asda in packs of 100 sheets for about £6. The reason for this is I make Formula One cars in 1/24 scale, a lot of which come preprinted on 120g paper and they assemble just fine. The strength is in the structure not the thickness of the medium in use. The one advantage of downloaded models is that if you do print on too light a paper then it is a simple task to redo on heavier stock.
    As for formers etc cereal boxes are a good starting point. If you need something a little more sturdier try scrounging the backs of old writing pads/tablets. Everyone in my office knows this and I get a regular supply left on my desk.
    With regard to glue white PVA is probably the best, I use Anita's Tacky glue available from most stationers and Hobbycraft. The reason for this is the bottles are not too large and they come with a fine nozzle that eases application, oh, and it's thick and easy to spread.
  10. TonyG2

    TonyG2 Member

    When you're laying in supplies, don't forget the tools!

    Some people prefer freehand work with scissors. Personally I work with a knife and use a Swann Morton scalpel with a No10a blade. Change it regularly. Its amazing how fast paper dulls a blade. I also have a very fine pointed set of scissors which have a curve to the tips. Can be helpful for cutting sections between small tabs.

    A good steel ruler is a must.

    Get a set of cheap electronics probes. Various designs and are helpful for working joints from the inside.

    Flat faced paddle tweezers are good as are smooth faced long nosed pliers. Can be used to apply pressure on a joint to get to to set firm and also for folding.

    For finishing, well its always a matter of personal preference. I Colour exposed cut white edges with felt art pens. Once assembled, is used artists watercolour pencils to touch in areas an where possible add some tone over the fold lines.

    And last but not least, the finished item gets a series of coats of clear acrylic varnish. I used to use Humbrols spay can but thats hard to find these days so use a similar product from Plastikote.
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