Here is an additional illustration
- Thread starter vanda32547
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Bob, the NMRA website may be of interest to you as it has all the standards to go by as far as track seperation and grades go. That is an interesting looking trackplan you have there.
F
Fred_M
NO. 2 to 4 % is max grade. Example, so to go up 6" takes 300" of track at 2% grade, 150 inches at 4%. or for every 100 inches you can go up 1 inch at 1% to 4 inches at 4%. Fred
I too had the "I don't have enough room to get up that high" problem. Keep in mind that you can split the difference and have one track go down and one go up to achieve your 3"-4" crossing differential. Of course you need to start on a layer of foam or cut away your benchwork to make this happen.
Doc
Doc
Good info everyone and especailly Doc...
Doc,
I did some additive and subtractive benchwork many years ago to achieve some excitement in a layout so your idea sparked my memory. I'll have to rework my plan a bit considering I only have 19" of space to work in for this layout. I am using some used kitchen cabinets for my base and others 19" above for stogage as well so I am a might limited in that regard. Still think I might have some fun with this one.
Thanks again for all the suggestions,
Doc,
I did some additive and subtractive benchwork many years ago to achieve some excitement in a layout so your idea sparked my memory. I'll have to rework my plan a bit considering I only have 19" of space to work in for this layout. I am using some used kitchen cabinets for my base and others 19" above for stogage as well so I am a might limited in that regard. Still think I might have some fun with this one.
Thanks again for all the suggestions,
Bob,
Looks interesting. :thumb: I think I see a couple of reverse loops (a good thing!).
Those 3' wide "dog-bone ends" will yield some pretty sharp curves if I read it right.
Just comments. Thanks for showing us your plan and keep us posted please!
Looks interesting. :thumb: I think I see a couple of reverse loops (a good thing!).
Those 3' wide "dog-bone ends" will yield some pretty sharp curves if I read it right.
Just comments. Thanks for showing us your plan and keep us posted please!
where it looks too steep to me:
your 3"-6" transitions are VERY abrupt.. 3 inches in 3 feet is an 8.3% grade! Unless you're doing Shays, thats way too steep! I'd make your mountain curve a max of 6" instead of 8 (the upper right), which should lower your grades to a more reasonable level. I'd also start the grade of your turnback loop right at that bridge, and see if you cant get a wider turn in there, to keep the grades down around 2%
your 3"-6" transitions are VERY abrupt.. 3 inches in 3 feet is an 8.3% grade! Unless you're doing Shays, thats way too steep! I'd make your mountain curve a max of 6" instead of 8 (the upper right), which should lower your grades to a more reasonable level. I'd also start the grade of your turnback loop right at that bridge, and see if you cant get a wider turn in there, to keep the grades down around 2%
Yes you are correct...thanks
Y'all are great,
Thanks for all the input. Yes you are correct about the 3' dogbone curves. Fortunately I will only be running short rolling stock on this layout and hope this won't be a problen for me. Also the mountain height can be reduced to less than 8" you were all right about the steep grade, which I want to avoid.
I just need to get it high enough to be able to pass the rails under the bridge for the loop back. Since space is limited I am trying to get the most out of this layout space.
Thanks again guys and gals,
Y'all are great,
Thanks for all the input. Yes you are correct about the 3' dogbone curves. Fortunately I will only be running short rolling stock on this layout and hope this won't be a problen for me. Also the mountain height can be reduced to less than 8" you were all right about the steep grade, which I want to avoid.
I just need to get it high enough to be able to pass the rails under the bridge for the loop back. Since space is limited I am trying to get the most out of this layout space.
Thanks again guys and gals,
"or for every 100 inches you can go up 1 inch at 1% to 4 inches at 4%."
I don't know what method you'll be using to get the elevation you're looking for but don't forget to include in the overall length the distance needed to transition from a 2 0r 3% incline back to level, 0%, incline.
I used the Woodland Scenics 3% risers to achieve the elevation I wanted to get a bridge into my small layout and by the time I got back to level I'd used another 6" or so, on each end, up section and down, which reduced the overall space available for a bridge on the layout.
If I just left off where the risers ended I had what appeared to be a "launching ramp". I'm sure with a smaller grade, say 1%, this would not be a very significant problem.
George
I don't know what method you'll be using to get the elevation you're looking for but don't forget to include in the overall length the distance needed to transition from a 2 0r 3% incline back to level, 0%, incline.
I used the Woodland Scenics 3% risers to achieve the elevation I wanted to get a bridge into my small layout and by the time I got back to level I'd used another 6" or so, on each end, up section and down, which reduced the overall space available for a bridge on the layout.
If I just left off where the risers ended I had what appeared to be a "launching ramp". I'm sure with a smaller grade, say 1%, this would not be a very significant problem.
George