Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by DarthPineapple, Nov 8, 2008.

  1. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    The most effective one is the one that works best for you. :) Whichever tool best fits your scoring style, feels right in your hand, works best with the weight of paper you use, etc. All of the suggested tools are cheap or free, so try a few, then stick with whatever works best for you.

    One last thing - I want to emphasize what Ron Caudillo advised about scoring - accuracy counts! It's hard to fold accurately without scoring, but with scoring you can fold very precisely. However, your folds will only be as precise as your scores, so scoring has a major impact on fit and appearance. Take the time to do it well, it will really pay off.

    Enjoy your submarine build!
  2. striker12

    striker12 New Member

    There's some video's at the yamaha website that show you how to do everything. Sometimes seeing is easier to understand. They are building a motorcycle but I would think the technique's would be the same. They do a good job of showing scoring, gluing, cutting, etc. Just so you know, I am new to modeling but I found these vid's very helpful. Here's the link:
  3. That is indeed very helpful, thank you for the link! :thumb:
  4. Thomas Meek

    Thomas Meek New Member

    You are getting some very good advice from some excellent modellers here. We are all fortunate to have this forum. I shall be so bold as to add my own yawp, even though I probably should keep my mouth shut in the presence of these masters.

    I have found that the best knife for me is the OLFA snap off type with the A1160B blades. These blades are scored at a more acute angle than the usual ones and it gives a more pointy blade which makes it easier to get better angles on the cut edges and also helps a lot when cutting tight curves. They are a little hard to find; I had to order mine online but it is worth it.
    I used to sharpen my own blades when they got dull, and take some pride in the skill I developed over the years. I also did not like the wasteful practice of throwing away part of the blade every time I "sharpened" it. However, the joy of using a frighteningly sharp blade whenever I need it and the complete ease of obtaining a new edge have changed my mind on the issue. Also, the snap-off blades are not very expensive if I consider how many sharp edges I get in a package.

    I also save the A1160B blades for difficult cuts and use ordainary blades, sometimes scissors, for easy cuts. I always use scissors for "roughing out" the parts.
  5. Thomas,

    Thank you, but I have no idea about what knives you're talking about. :confused:
  6. Rutek 63

    Rutek 63 Member

  7. maaaslo

    maaaslo New Member

    what sort of knives...

    usually, i just buy knives, which you use for cutting carpets. these knives are incredibly sharp, you can break off blunt points to get a new sharp edge, you have a lot of blades in a replacement package and are very cheap.dont know, how much it cost in US, but in UK it cost about 2 pounds for a pack of 10... thats cheap.
    about glueing without tabs...
    its easy. its nearly as strong as with tabs. it does take some training, but once mastered, you will cut off every tab u find.
    glueing edge to edge, there is always a visible side and a side, which can be dirty of glue.
    even if you can see both sides of join, use just a drop of glue on the edge, it holds very firmly. obviusly, you have to use white PVA glue, or any glue which is good with paper. even using superglue is a good option. just dont use too much, it make spots. I use superglue for soaking parts, which i need to get them very strong. you can even break part like that. its that strong.
    any more questions, just ask. im not a master modeller, havent posted any reports, but i have some skills, and i allways try to help. also, as someone, who understand polish language, i have access to more forums. more forums means more ideas. if you see anything, you would like to discuss from any polish paper modeller forum, just send me PM. ill get in touch with you asap.
    lots of gloue on your fingertips, guys...
    have a nice one
  8. JBAIL

    JBAIL New Member

    glue spreader for large areas

    Along with using a small paint brush to spread glue try recyling those fake plastic credit cards and such companies love to send in the mail. I use them both in my wood shop and to laminate parts. I also use a printer
    cartage refill hypodurmic type syringe for spot glueing and hard to reach places.
  9. SJPONeill

    SJPONeill Guest

    I had/have the same problems with cutting...a couple of things I found helped with curves and that had a mega-effect on the quality of my models was:

    - a circle cutter - you can get ones that will cut adjustable circles with diameters 1-10cm really cheaply from most craft shops - make sure you get one with replaceable blades. These are great for circles and part-circles (i.e. those use to make cones etc).

    - for non-regular curves, get a flexible ruler - these come in a range of sizes up a metre in length. Lay the part flat on your cutting surface and very carefully shape it to follow the curve(s); even more carefully use a sharp #11 to follow the line of the curve, remembering that the edge on the ruler is not metal and taking care to avoid catching the blade on it - really good light helps heaps as well...


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